What's Pressoir Drinking?

by Max Goldberg Liu
October 28, 2020

Sometimes Champagne is just right for a special occasion

A closing message from the women of La Transmission, Femmes en Champagne at La Fête du Champagne 2020 was that Champagne is not just a celebratory beverage - it can, in fact, be the occasion itself, and it elevates ordinary experiences into something special.

I wholeheartedly agree with this sentiment and often enjoy drinking Champagne “just because.” Still, the two Champagnes I enjoyed over the last weekend of La Fête were in fact celebratory, as my girlfriend of nearly six years (and now fiancée!) Katherine and I celebrated our engagement. Katherine is in her final year of medical school at Stony Brook and LOVES Champagne.

We started the festivities Saturday afternoon with just the two of us and enjoyed a bottle of Krug Grande Cuvée 168th Edition. After watching the fantastic discussion with Olivier Krug and Chef Arnaud Lallement, we were extremely thirsty for Krug and this did not disappoint. The latest Grande Cuvée release from the renowned house, 168 was built around the ripe 2012 vintage and the rich aromas and flavors of pastry, brioche, and almond paste really came through. Of course, the wine was not lacking freshness and balance that came from the reserve wines that were masterfully blended in, but still, this was a totally hedonistic and luxurious Champagne.

The following evening, we celebrated with my family (with many bottles of wine) but a standout for me was the Moussé Fils Special Club Rosé de Saignée 2014. There was also a tie-in with La Fête du Champagne here, as we had an enjoyable discussion with Cédric Moussé in his vineyards and his deceptively modern winery as part of the “Next Generation Growers” seminar the weekend prior. The terroir-driven purity of Cédric’s wines was on full display here, and alongside the shimmering red fruit flavors I found a highly expressive note of green tea that was extremely compelling. Perhaps it comes from the fact that the Champagne is 100% Pinot Meunier, which I often find gives Champagnes a somewhat herbaceous note. This is one of only a few rosé Special Clubs and it is made in diminutive quantities from a 100% Meunier vineyard in Cuisles called “Le Bout de la Ville” (tip of the town). A rare treat.

Many producers in Champagne are fighting back against the traditional marketing techniques of the large houses that portray Champagne as a special occasion beverage. Still, traditions die hard, and I say: “Champagne ALL the time!"