Good Friends
by Daniel Johnnes
October 26, 2021
The title of my article refers to two wines I enjoyed with friends this past weekend in Paris. The wines were made by two other friends who, unfortunately, are no longer with us though they continue to share and give pleasure through the wines they made. Today, I will write about Gerard Potel. Next week - Patrick Bize.
The first was a Pommard Jarollières 1982 made by Gerard Potel of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or in Volnay. Gerard, who founded Pousse d’Or in 1964, was an absolute wizard. I have never had a wine of his that was not magical in some way. He also made one of, if not, THE most memorable red Burgundies I have ever had. That was the Volnay Clos de la Bousse d’Or 1964, his first vintage. I will talk about that wine in another article.
1982 was a shamefully abundant harvest. One still hears stories of wine makers not knowing what to do with the juice of the pressed grapes (must) and then finding enough aging vessels for the resultant wine. As we know, large yields do not always translate into poor wine (as witnessed here) but the wine is naturally less concentrated and therefore less structured for aging. At the same time, in its youth, a good winemaker can turn out a wine that gives immediate pleasure.
Calling Gerard Potel a good winemaker is a colossal understatement. In my opinion, he would be among the greatest winemakers to have ever produced Burgundy. He was ahead of his time in many ways, being one of the first to use a sorting table to discard unripe or unhealthy grapes, and among the first to practice a “saigné” (a method used to increase the ratio of juice to skins in an abundant vintage). From his aforementioned first vintage, 1964, to his last 1996, there is nary a faulty wine to be found.
While the bulk of Potel’s production was Volnay, this Pommard Jarollières (Jarolières) touching on the edge of the Volnay appellation to the north, was in perfect condition with a barely fragile cork. The color was very light with faded rose and a hint of pale salmon. The aroma rose from the glass like a puff of perfume redolent of dried flowers and cherry, raisin and earth. There was no suggestion of oxidation or fatigue whatsoever. The palate was gentle, fresh and alive. Easy like water but nourishing and palate stimulating. As expected from this vintage, there were no remaining tannins. Just pure pleasure and fond memories of a dear friend.
Santé
