What's Pressoir Drinking?

by Raj Vaidya
May 11, 2021

Domaine Simon Bize Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses

It has become a rare occasion to find so called ‘humble’ appellations from Burgundy with proper maturity. The great Volnays and Vosne-Romanées I’ve been lucky to taste are certainly held in higher regard than those from villages such as Marsannay or even Beaune, and therefore are more likely to have been held in collectors’ cellars till reaching maturity. But I find tremendous joy in tasting a wine with an equal depth of character, nuance and delicacy as these ‘grand’ appellations, although often without the weight or power of the same when mature.

This exceedingly pretty bottle was consumed at the end of a marathon service of 22 top notch collectable wines to a group of nearly 60 serious gourmands at an event in California last week. Amongst the wines poured, the 1985 Drouhin Bonnes Mares, 1988 Dujac Clos de la Roche, 2010 Lafon Montrachet and 1978 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle (from magnum!) were highlights. Yet while winding down after the fact, the charming and filigree texture and the earthy, mushroom laced aromas of this beautiful bottle from the Bize family totally knocked my socks off, and did not seem at discord in quality at all with the wines I’d tasted earlier in the evening.

1976 went on record as one of the warmest seasons that Burgundy has ever seen. But this Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru “Les Vergelesses” did not show the heat or alcohol of the vintage. Light on its feet, lacy in texture and with that beet-like sweetness giving the only indicator of the warmth of the harvest. Superb length on the palate. I can’t say I was still tasting it the next morning, but I certainly woke up thinking about it!