What's Pressoir Drinking?
Edouard Bourgeois
May 19, 2021
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 1979
1979: While Pink Floyd releases its now iconic album “The Wall”, the Sahara desert experiences an incredibly rare episode of 30 minutes of snow. That same year, some pristine clusters of Syrah are meticulously harvested on the daunting hill of l’Hermitage. Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, founded in the XVth century and run by the same family ever since, without interruption, is often considered to be “the king of the hill”. There is Hermitage and there is Chave Hermitage, a step above. I have been lucky enough to taste older vintages like this 1979 over the course of my sommelier career. With bottle age, this brooding style of Syrah has the ability to keep an intense personality. For me, olives and black pepper are often the descriptors that come to mind, along with bacon fat. But what really amazes me is how “simply delicious” these powerful wines remain. Another feature that always stuns me is the incredible length on the palate.
The Chave family is a strong believer in blending. If not the grape, then the plots. The well-known Hermitage cru “Les Bessards”, often bottled separately by other producers, represents the base of the blend at Chave’s while other crus such as Péléat, le Méal, Rocoules or l’Hermite play a role in fine tuning the overall balance and nature of the vintage. The domaine also produces an authoritative white Hermitage, the result of a blend of century-old vines of Marsanne and Roussanne. Just like its red sibling, this cuvee is capable of very long aging.
