News from the Vineyard
May 25, 2021
by Justine Puaud
Bordeaux - a Viticultural Revolution
News from Bordeaux. They are in the middle of the ‘primeurs’ season, when merchants buy wine and pay the producers, about 2 years before the wines go on the market. They are also experiencing an exciting revolution in the vineyards and in the cellars right now.
Organic and biodynamic wines
Bordeaux has been known as one the highest consumers of pesticides in France. Today, the trend is changing. Over 608 producers of AOC Bordeaux have received organic certification, while 50 producers have converted to biodynamic viticulture. Is there a real awareness around the dangers of the pesticides for the Bordelais or is it a pure marketing effect? I think today there are two different schools of thought in Bordeaux. On the one hand, there are those who decided to follow the notable pioneers of biodynamic and organic wines such as Chateau Pontet-Canet, Chateau Palmer and Paul Barre, who all started to work in biodynamic 20-30 years ago. They realize organic viticulture has an important role to play in the fight against climate change. By having deep-rooted wines on a soil without pesticides, the vines will be more linked to the soil than to the climate. The goal is to minimize the extreme conditions of a deregulated climate by having a strong and healthy soil. This will maintain the freshness in the wines. On the other hand, there are Chateaux who have been terribly affected by the “Bordeaux bashing” and have tons of wine to sell. They changed their marketing strategy and tend to be more “green” in order to “re-gild one’s coat of arms”.
In the vineyard of Château Giscours
In the vineyard of Château Pontet-Canet, pioneer of biodynamic viticulture
Precision viticulture
A number of different precision viticulture techniques have been utilized over the last few years to better monitor and manage the vineyards. Precision viticulture optimizes vineyard performance by maximizing grape yield and quality while minimizing environmental impacts and risk. This is accomplished by measuring local variation in factors that influence grape yield and quality and applying appropriate viticulture management practices. Some renowned Grands Crus Classés are using those techniques to improve grape quality. At Château Giscours in Margaux they started to pick not parcel by parcel, but even vine by vine! At Château Lafite, they encourage biodiversity by creating ‘green corridors’ (planting hedges and trees) that will imbue the grapes and therefore wines with freshness.
Introducing new grape varieties
Some grape varieties, such as Merlot, are threatened by viruses such as ‘Court-noué’ or Black-rot that cause a drop in yield per hectare and a loss of longevity of the vine. When we know it takes five years for a new vine to enter into production, we have a small idea of the economic losses generated. The scientists from the I.N.A.O. (a public body responsible for setting out and controlling the regulations for the production of AOC and AOVDQS wines) are looking into foreign varieties which are known for their potential in the face of heat and drought. They recently approved 6 grape varieties. There are 4 reds - Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan, and Touriga Nacional and 2 whites - Alvarinho and Liliorila. All are described as "well-adapted to alleviate hydric stress associated with temperature increases and shorter growing cycles."
Are we moving towards a new style of Bordeaux wine?
Overall, with the impact of the climate change and the use of those new viticultural techniques, Bordeaux wines are becoming much fresher and more expressive of the vineyard. I personally think that the new style only touch the Grand Cru Classés Châteaux, who had no choice but to reinvent themselves. There are old pioneers who have been making delicious and fresh Bordeaux wines for the past decades. Maybe those winemakers were not interesting enough to critics 10 years ago as they were called “untraditional”.
I am thinking particularly about 2 Châteaux:
Château Saint Saturnin, also named the “outsider Médoc”. Adrien Tramier is one of those rare wine producers in Bordeaux who really does seem to be making wine for himself rather than for the wine critics. He doesn’t use oak and keeps the fermenting juice on the skins for months. His wines are frank, fresh and full of charm.
Chateau Bel Air Marquis d'Aligre in Margaux. Some people says this Margaux comes from the past, others says it comes from the future. Jean-Pierre Boyer doesn’t use new oak barrels, only large cement cuves. After a six-month passage in old barrels, the wine spends 2-3 years in cement vats before bottling and release. His wines are delicate and complex.
That being said, will you give a second chance to Bordeaux?
