Beach Wines Part 2

June 27, 2021
by Daniel Johnnes

With one immensely successful bottle of Coche tucked into my sensory memory, it was time to plan for the Pierre Morey, Batard-Montrachet 2001.

When I had an opportunity to secure 12 bottles of this wine I wasted not more than one second to send my payment. I had first experienced this wine at La Paulée de Meursault in 2018 (see photo). Very proudly seated right across from Pierre and Anne Morey, I was the very happy recipient of multiple treasures they brought to share with the other 700 guests at La Paulée. But this one served from magnum is the wine that made one of the biggest impressions on me that day.

Their parcel of Batard-Montrachet is without a doubt what one would call the tenderloin of this large (almost 12 hectare) Grand Cru vineyard, divided almost evenly between Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. The Morey parcel is just under a half an hectare and is located nearly in the center of the “Climat” on the Puligny side just across the narrow path from Le Montrachet. Who could ask for anything more?

As a result, the Morey Batard is weighty but less so than some Batards lower on the slope on the flatter land. This one, from old vines, is reaching its glorious apogee and will likely hold it for another twenty to thirty years. The aromas soared from my glass expressing a very slight reduction followed by honeysuckle, orange peel, lemon confit and that elusive mineral note. The palate was expansive and textured. It reminded me immediately how to identify a Grand Cru wine: by its length. A Grand Cru from a great producer will always provide a clear window onto its terroir. A Grand Cru terroir will linger on the palate - sometimes for many minutes. This one hung on with deep tingling notes one could equate to a bass instrument that resonated on and on and on. YUM!

Perfect with the skewered and grilled shrimp and scallops.