WHAT(...WAS) PRESSOIR DRINKING - Domaine Réné Engel Clos Vougeot 1969

February 10, 2022
by Raj Vaidya

Some years ago at Restaurant Daniel, following a 2010 vintage Burgundy dinner I hosted, a handful of the participants assembled in the lounge to have their hand at the wine list. Seems they had not quite been satiated by the 18 bottles of rare (albeit young) wines I’d served that evening and needed to quench their thirst. The competitive energy that surrounds such groups of drinkers and lovers of fine wine took control of the ship and quickly we found ourselves in a melée of great old wine; 1971 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger, a pristine bottle of ‘61 Chave Hermitage, side by side Mugneret Gibourg Echezeaux and Ruchottes from 2002, a particularly savory magnum of 1998 Selosse… the corks were flying and the night felt like it was getting out of control. Then, one of the revelers pulled me aside and asked me about a bottle I’d been hoarding on the list, a bottle I’d bought from a famous and impeccable cellar in New Jersey which had lingered on the list for some time because I had been in the habit of telling guests we’d sold out of it when they’d inquire. I feared that a bottle in such great shape would never cross my path again, and it being so special, I didn’t want someone to order it and have it either run the risk of being under appreciated, or even worse, that the client who bought it wouldn’t offer me a giant glass :)…

Réné Engel

That night, however, I acquiesced and brought up the bottle from the cellar, much to everyone’s delight. It was almost weightless on the palate, subtle yet supple in texture, yet with tremendous intensity. It almost felt like the wine skipped the palate and immediately affected the mind, as only great bottles can. As it opened up though, the palate filled out and exhibited sweet earth flavors with roasted porcini and cardamon notes. Although up till that point we’d been in a mood of revelry, the experience of drinking great, old Engel brought us all together in introspection and reverence for this great bottle.

Lucky is an understatement, when referring to me, I always say. And this will prove true later this month, on the 24th of February when we get the chance to open another bottle of ‘69 Engel Clos Vougeot during our ‘6 Decades’ dinner at La Pavillon. So those of you joining us can start getting excited about tasting this with me very soon!