What's Pressoir Drinking? Our most memorable wines of 2023
December 20, 2023
The Pressoir team’s most memorable wines of 2023
Daniel - Armand Rousseau, Chambertin 1934
I really think this image says it all. When writing about wine, we sometimes get too wrapped up in searching for the right words to describe the experience. “Light violet in color, haunting aromas of dried rose petals, cedar, earth, dark fruit, etc…” But with this bottle, I will make no attempt. I am not being coy or lazy. I just would like everyone to sail away on a dream about this wine the way I did when drinking it. Once in a lifetime? Yes. Well actually, my second time.
Beyond the sheer extravagance and beauty of this wine, there is a funny story associated to it. One will notice the label says “Cuvée A” under Chambertin. When I had this wine the first time, Eric Rousseau was present. I asked him, “why Cuvée A”. His response was characteristic of the traditional, artisanal way of Burgundian life. Not precise, somewhat random and in a way, poetic. Eric said, “I suppose there was a Cuvée B”.
‘Nuf said!!! Happy Holidays to all
Raj - Henri Jayer, Vosne-Romanée Villages 1992 en magnum
2023 was yet another year of tremendous bottles, lucky life that I lead…
But one experience stands out as very special thanks to a combination of the wine’s rarity, the setting within which we consumed it, the friends with whom I got to share it and the simple beauty of the wine itself. 1992 is not thought off as a great red vintage in Burgundy, but in my experience this wine has always over delivered, and in general Henri Jayer was known to excel in difficult vintages as much so as ‘great’ ones. The bottle was on the wine list at Maison Troisgros and during our ‘La Paulée des Champs’ weekend there in May a group of friends decided to pitch in to buy and drink this magnum together, and I was the lucky guy who got to open, serve, and share with them. What a treat! Bought on release by the restaurant, this was in perfect condition, with all of the sweetness of fruit one expects from Jayer and that typical cola-like vegetal undertones to balance and freshen up the palate. It was the cherry on top of a truly perfect and memorable weekend. Can’t wait to see what I get to drink at La Paulée des Champs next year!
Nikita - Jacques Selosse, Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésimé 1990
There are serendipitous moments in life, where everything seems to align and all is right in the world. And I had this moment this June, on a rainy humid evening when I was discussing Champagne with a friend. I had been in Italy that Spring, and was lucky to find reasonably priced Selosse in Verona. But my, friend, with a twinkle in his eyes asked my opinion on 1990 Selosse and perhaps he saw that crestfallen look of a sommelier who hasn’t tasted a bottle they have hoped to open for many years, eagerly waiting for a chance and worried their opinion of the wine will be based solely on the tasting notes of others. So he walked back to his apartment in Tribeca as the summer deluge set the evening up to for a perfect setting of staying indoors and tasting wine with friends. He was drenched from his journey back to the East Village, but in true Homeric fashion, it was all worth it as I opened the bottle, allowed a sigh of relief upon confirming it was sound, and had the chance to taste the wine as it evolved throughout the evening. The freshness was the first attribute that struck me, with citrus and lemon peel unfolding to present a type of vibrancy I never associate with this producer. It maintained that freshness for most of the night, only admitting defeat because I couldn’t bring myself to finish the last gulp in my silly attempt to make time stand still. Luckily I had many great bottles this year, and I hope to continue the streak with 2024, but a bottle of wine that makes you think and reflect and be thankful had to be the wine of the year for me. Also it is always best to share these life affirming bottles with friends.
Edouard - Domaine Georges Roumier, Musigny Grand Cru 1983 en magnum
Not much wine is made in Burgundy with about 30,000 hectares planted
Not much wine is made in Chambolle Musigny with about 180 hectares planted
Not much wine is made in Musigny Grand Cru with just over 10 hectares planted
Not much wine is made in Musigny, By Domaine Georges Roumier with their minuscule 0.10 hectare plot. No seriously that is 0.25 acres or 10763.9 square feet (reference for the real estate industry readers)
Not much wine was made in Musigny, by Domaine Georges Roumier in 1983
Even less in magnum…
And not many people got to experience drinking such a rare wine in the presence of who else but Christophe Roumier, who gifted it to us lucky thirsty bunch.
This magnificent magnum was enjoyed in the calm environment of Maison Troisgros during our Paulée des Champs in May.
I will keep an indelible memory of that night. But I’m biased since 1983 is my “vintage”!
Justine - Clos des Lambrays 1976 at my first La Paulée de Meursault
It is always difficult to find THE wine of the year. For me a memorable wine is all about the moment you share this wine with, the surprise - when you have no expectation but are shocked about the freshness, the length and how delicious it is. If I have to find a wine which will express this feeling, I will pick Clos des Lambrays 1976 which we opened and shared at the 100th anniversary of La Paulée de Meursault.
When you buy a wine that old, you have a minimum of 50% chance that the wine will be gone. This bottle was in pristine condition - great color and filled just below the cork. This was definitely one of the surprises of the night. Delicate, beautiful concentration, with a complex aromatic palette with overblown rose, violet, truffle and a hint of spices.
Astrid - Noël Verset, Cornas 1991
There have been quite a few fabulous wine moments that I’ve come across in 2023. Not only have I had the pleasure of joining this great team, I’ve been given the opportunity to experience many remarkable wines. When considering my favorite of this year, the 1991, Noël Verset, Cornas immediately came to mind. This particular bottle was opened up alongside 13 other Noël Verset, Cornas vintages at La Tablée’s The Genius of Noël Verset dinner. Tasting the wines while learning more about Verset’s story certainly added to the impact of the experience. In particular, hearing the story of Verset from Mannie Berk, who had been collecting the wines of this particular winemaker for the past 30 years, and who made the dinner that night possible. Verset spent his life making wine that many paid little-to-no attention to, until after his passing, when both the Rhône and the name of Verset became renowned. It’s both poetic and unfortunate that the making of these wines ceased with Noël’s passing. The stories surrounding the wines created a memorable night, but the impression of the wine itself was astonishing. The wine was unforgettable and delicious. I’ve had the pleasure of tasting some truly extraordinary wines this year, in 2024 I can hope for nothing but the same.
Max - Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Richebourg 1989
La Paulée’s Gala Dinner is usually where I get to taste some of the most mindblowing bottles of the year. While it is not the most contemplative environment in which to taste, the rapid-fire energy of the Gala and sheer quantity of great wine in the room definitely make up for that. It is always a privilege to be able to taste birth year wines from great producers and terroirs, and this bottle of 1989 Richebourg that I snagged a small glass of at La Paulée 2023 was one of the best wines from my vintage that I’ve had - vigorous, rich, with sweet red fruit, rose, and spice. Like all DRCs, it seemed to be aging on a completely different time scale than all other wines; it had so much density and energy that I could hardly believe it was nearly in its mid-thirties.
Jaime - Domaine François Jobard, Meursault “En La Barre” 1989 en magnum + Domaine Antoine & François Jobard, Meursault 1er Cru Poruzot 2002 en magnum
Thinking back this year, over the amazing wines that I am so fortunate to get to taste and enjoy, I am utterly humbled by the experiences that I get to share with my colleagues, friends, winemakers and Pressoir Club Members.
The spirit of our events lies in the community of people that come together to make it happen, the atmosphere of sharing and the wines that make the experiences memorable.
I am all about the people and the place where a wine is enjoyed, these two elements when combined with a great bottle, create those indelible experiences.
For me this year, it was at La Paulee de Meursault this past November. I was invited to join Daniel, Raj and Justine from our team, along with Sarah and Andy Chabot from Blackberry Farm and our surprise guest Chef Daniel Boulud. We were hosted by Antoine and Charlotte of Domaine Antoine Jobard at the Table d’Honeur – wow! Front and center in the room prime for sharing great bottles from all corners of the room as people pass through the isles of tables with their prize bottles to share.
Most memorable that day were two wines, a magnum of 1989 of Domaine Francois Jobard, Meursault “En La Barre” poured by Antoine’s Dad, Francois and a magnum of 2002 Domaine Antoine et Francois Jobard, Meursault Poruzot.
They had thoughtfully selected both magnums to share at La Paulee, the second being Antoine’s first vintage so that was a special bottle to speak with him about allowing him to remember that special year when he joined his father at the domaine.
The 1989 was delicious and it was particularly memorable to have an aged white burgundy that had perfectly evolved to a golden color in the glass, rich and sweet notes of almond paste and honey and a freshness on the finish that was lifted with mineral notes. White Burgundy at its finest!
La Paulee de Meursault is not only about the great wines, but it is also about the incredibly festive atmosphere, Les Joyeux Bourguignons signing on stage, the French speeches that always amaze with their jeux de mots and rhythmic verse, and the parade of winemaking legends in the room. I leave you with this video that captures the event – I did not join the dance, but so enjoyed watching those that did! At my holiday events, I hope that all my guests are as jolly, fun and full of great Meursault as those at La Paulee de Meursault.
Happy holidays and all the best for a wonderful end of year celebration!