News from the Vineyard
by Daniel Johnnes
February 10, 2023
Domaine de la Grange des Pères
My quick trip to France this week was inspired by an invitation from the Vaillé family to come visit.
Vaillé owns Domaine de la Grange des Pères in the commune of Aniane in the Languedoc about 45 minutes north west of Montpellier.
My first stop was the fast train train to Lyon and a quick drive to Côte Rôtie to visit my friends, Guillaume, Brigitte and Gilbert Clusel-Roch. Brigitte and Gilbert are semi-retired although Gilbert’s preferred form of retirement is rebuilding the stone wall terraces around his vineyards. A quick click on their website will direct you to a Rolling Stones song “Don’t Stop” with Gilbert performing a Herculean task of reinforcing his century old walls.
Of course I can’t visit Clusel-Roch without timing it for lunch. This time, it was Brigitte’s classic blanquette de veau, accompanied by Côte Rôtie La Viaillère 2010 (2nd vintage).
Next stops were Julien Cecillon, Maxime Graillot and Jean Gonon. All three taking me further south on my journey to the Languedoc and the Vaillé residence, providing snapshots of both the 2022 and 2021 about to be bottled. Both good to excellent vintages with more depth and concentration in the 2022s, which does not necessarily mean better. 2021 is delicious and more approachable early.
I was full of emotion arriving in Aniane chez Vaillé. This is a property I visited in 1993 when his first vintage 1992 was still in barrel. I remember that visit like it was yesterday. We took a quick tour of the cellar and then spent a very long afternoon by the canal with my wife, Sally and our young 4 year old Lionel and one year old Barnaby.
Laurent, the genius behind the wines, had spent several years learning from the masterful Eloi Durrbach of Domaine de Trevallon (Baux de Provence) and Coche-Dury in Meursault. Laurent had to dynamite a hillside to plant his Syrah, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Marsanne and a splash of Counoise, Chardonnay and Cabernet.
Over time, these wines achieved cult status and found their way onto the top tables of France and abroad.
Sadly, Laurent tragically died in the spring of 2021 and I had not been back until today. The wines are still magical, with deep rich flavors, yet light on their feet with fresh acidity, silky tannins and a hint of game.
These deep soulful wines never had a Languedoc appellation other than IGP Hérault or Vin de Pays de l’Hérault. Laurent did not want them to be associated with a place. They were and still are simply La Grange des Pères. May Laurent rest in peace.
