La Tablée Highlights
December 4, 2024
Nikita Malhotra
As I walked home from the La Tablée after party a couple of Saturdays ago, it dawned on me that this was our last festival this year. It was a moment that made me reflect on the experiences this year that will no doubt return to me as insightful and significant memories, and, as all things that signify a sense of finitude, it was a chance to reflect. Now we are now in the midst of planning the 25th anniversary of La Paulée, so that was a fleeting moment of unoccupied time that, although brief, compelled me to at least write down some impressions from the weekend of La Tablée.
David Combier is someone that really progressed the narrative of what is going on in the Rhône; the family’s top cuvée Crozes-Hermitage “Clos des Grives” comes from an enclosed vineyard whose soil is rich with red clay and chalk, along with plenty of alluvial stones. This is a serious wine, bold and with a long finish. Juxtapose this wine with their purple labels, considered entry level, a good wine to introduce the wines of Crozes-Hermitage. These wines showcase fruit; a purity of fruit that is both elegant and refreshing. Unlike their neighbors, the Graillots, the Combiers use destemmed fruit, and their purple label wine is aged in a cement egg (œuf) for 8-10 months. I adore the purple label, because at its core it represents a well made everyday drinking option, something that should be appreciated. For many years Graillot stood as the place holder for this region, and that continues to this day, but I hope Combier gets a chance to be printed next to them on wine lists and have bottles next to them on wine shelves. I saw many who interacted with David come away with a better understanding of the region and a preview of the next generation there. I also must comment on the fact that David brought one of his father’s vintages, and his father Laurent is still very much involved today as well. A bottle of 1996 Crozes-Hermitage displayed a variety of spices that lingered and clung to the glass, and this was all enhanced as David had a chance to relay that he was all but one year old when this wine was made. A playful moment, but also a chance to recognize how entwined the vineyards and wine are to these families, the 1996 wasn’t just a glimpse into the aging potential of these wines, but a taste from this bottle was also a chance to experience a family’s story, as the wine in the glass was being taken care of and raised much in the same way as the baby David was.
David Combier talking about Crozes-Hermitage
It’s always a pleasure to be in the presence of Laetitia Barrot, she is kind and patient, and her Châteauneuf-du-Pape "Fiancée" 2016 that was poured at the Mâchon event at Bar Boulud was stunning. A blend of Grenache and Syrah; the Grenache comes from the 100-year-old Terres Blanches plot. This cuvée is only bottled in exceptional years, and it is complex, there are so many notes that come off ranging from lavender to leather. The Barrot family have been making wine since the 14th century, and Laetitia makes the wine alongside her brother Julien. Elegance is what comes to mind, and the past years of La Tablée has shown how producers are moving away from the bold and powerful element that garnered them attention and accolades in the 1990’s, and Barroche, with its rich history and excellent vineyard holdings, has been emblematic of a fresher and more vibrant style of wine from this region.
Mâchon at Bar Boulud
Our team with Chef Daniel Boulud and Chef Daniel Guzman
I sat with Yves Cuilleron during the Gala Dinner, and there were moments peppered throughout the evening where he delivered such fascinating stories and provided historical framework, and the generosity and warmth of the Gala was such a lovely backdrop to that. The magic of these festivals is the potential to discover something new, to catch up with old friends, and to share wine personal to you with those who you know will appreciate your story. The wines from the Rhône feel personal to me, they remind me of my early days being a floor sommelier doing inventory in a whole cellar space devoted to Châteauneuf-du-Pape at Tribeca Grill. They remind me of holiday dinners with friends and family throughout the years, and for the sommeliers working the events, this is a time where we get to geek out about wines that we don’t always get to serve and talk about. I have nostalgia wrapped around these wines, and so seeing everyone celebrate this region feels comforting and joyful. La Paulée is the festival where I leave gaining so much insight, as conversations with winemakers, collectors, and sommeliers foster a really productive and educational week. La Fête du Champagne is the festival where there is just so much joy and enthusiasm, it’s hard not to escape the week without a smile. La Tablée is my personal favorite way to kick off the holidays as there is something warm and comforting about these wines. Whether it is Burgundy, Champagne or the Rhône that graces your table this holiday season, I hope one of our events provided a memory that will make that bottle allow for a similar moment of reflection as I had here. Looking forward to forming more memories with Italian wine in the new year as well.
