On Jacques Frederic Mugnier and Musigny
Edouard Bourgeois
May 10, 2024
The wines from Domaine JF Mugnier never cease to amaze me.
A couple weeks ago I was lucky to taste mind-blowing wines from the legendary estate during two different occasions. The mind behind the success of the domaine is Frédéric Mugnier, who took over the reins in 1985. While still an airline pilot at the time, “Freddy” started making wines that quickly became known as a reference in Chambolle-Musigny and later Nuits-st-Georges when the estate grew from about 4 hectares to roughly 15 with the addition of Clos de la Maréchale.
During our exceptional Pressoir Musigny Dinner, we were lucky to taste four vintages of Mugnier Musigny from 2006, 2005, 1999 and 1988!
Domaine JF Mugnier was founded in 1863 and has had holdings in the Musigny appellation since 1892. With a bit over one hectare in Musigny, it makes Mugnier the second largest owner of Musigny after the giant Comte Georges de Vogué. The Mugnier plot was planted in 1948 and 1962. Fred made an experiment in the late 1980’s with a separate cuvée vieilles vignes from the 1948 vines but felt that neither version of 1989 was as good as the blend from the whole holding.
Here are some of my impressions on the wines tasted:
And some Drouhin too! These were also phenomenal
2006: This is among my least favorite Burgundy vintages of the decade. But Mugnier managed to produce a very compelling and delicious wine from that difficult year. Still very young, I was enchanted by the dual personality of the wine, being juicy while suggesting concentrated and slightly “raisiny” aromas.
2005: Unsurprisingly explosive. 05 is always a powerhouse. Here the red cherries dominated and this baby monster will continue to grow for many decades.
1999: I found similarities with 2006 with that same density but a few more years gave this 99 a more ethereal character. Stunning bottle.
1988: I am still a bit puzzled with this bottle which at first showed a very intense nose. It was irresistible for a while but showed signs of fatigue in the glass after a couple hours, revealing more dry rusticity. Nevertheless, an immense source of pleasure and a more meditative experience perhaps.
Mugnier’s Musigny is simply magical and its Grand Cru status undisputable. Even in the so-called “off vintages”, Fred’s wines shine. This is also true for Musigny’s little sister, the majestic Premier Cru “Amoureuses”. This neighboring climat is another exceptionally fine wine. I tasted his Amoureuses from the polarizing and bizarre 2003 vintage, a year marked by scorching heat waves. After too many disappointments from other wines made that year, I have made it a habit to simply avoid anything 2003. But I was glad to revisit it with a wonderful bottle of Amoureuses from that year. I was so impressed by the freshness that remained, clearly not the usual descriptor for 2003. At Mugnier’s, the harvest started on September 1st because, and I quote Fred Mugnier himself: “August is for vacation!” The palate showed a bit more of the heat, a characteristic of the vintage, but through an intense dried flower intriguing aroma.
Great food too at Jean-George’s newest restaurant FourTwentyFive
Nuits st Georges Clos de la Marechale Blanc 2017
I don’t taste the white Marechale often because there is not that much made. The clos has always produced more red than white wines and for a while, exclusively red. Chardonnay was replanted again for the 2004 harvest. This 2017 had the beautiful texture of a white Nuits-st-Georges but plenty of freshness. So unique and beautiful!
Marechale 2022 and 2010 :
It is amazing to taste these side by side. While the 2022 will need a few more years to digest the oak, it already showed splendid vivacity. Mugnier compares it to “2020, but more approachable, and not too bad after all!”. Note that 2022 was one the five hottest vintages since 1893!
The 2010 Marechale was stunning. “One of the best imperfect vintages” according to Fred. That’s the thing I like about his approach to what some call the good and the bad vintages. When defining the universally lauded 2005 vintage, Mugnier qualifies it as “boringly perfect” while the 2010 was “charmingly imperfect”. This totally resonates with me!
Chambolle Musigny 2017
This early vintage is described as “joyful” at Mugnier’s. This cuvée has been a blend since 1985 of the Chambolle 1er Cru “Les Plantes” as well as a parcel in the combe d’Orveau, ranked at the village level. Pure pleasure.
Musigny 2008 A show-stopper. Fred Mugnier strongly believes that wine should age. That’s why he decided to hold his Musigny a few extra years before releasing them to the market, adding much anticipation among consumers! The current release is 2016…
Amazing lunch with François Moriamez, Fred Mugnier’s right arm
