Recap of the Clos Vougeot Session

Edouard Bourgeois
August 22, 2024

Unlike the typical Burgundy vineyard, the Grand Cru of Clos Vougeot is as large as it is synonymous with powerful wines, another atypical trait for Burgundy wines. For that reason, also, Clos Vougeot is not always associated with the most elegant style of Pinot Noir. Take another magical Grand Cru, Musigny, just a stone’s throw away from Clos Vougeot - the two wines will be polar opposite. I think that focusing a session entirely on Clos Vougeot allowed us to highlight what Burgundy is all about: nuances. Anselme Selosse uses his own expression “l’autre même” that can be translated into “the other same”.

For those who couldn’t attend the Pressoir Clos Vougeot Session that took place on July 16th, here are a few discussion points.

As mentioned above, it is impossible not to mention the size of the imposing Clos Vougeot, this 50 hectares vineyard, surrounded by walls and put together piece by piece by the Cistercian monks of the Abbey of Citeaux, founded in 1098. While the date of the first mention of the name Clos Vougeot is unclear, old manuscripts make mention of “Clausum” and “Grand Clos de Citeaux” back in the beginning of the XIIIth century. It is believed that the last plots were acquired in 1336.

It is worth mentioning that the Citeaux Abbey was founded after the Cluny Abbey, with the goal to represent a stricter version of Christianity. Interestingly enough, some Burgundians may refer to a wine as “Cistercian”, the adjective for Citeaux, to describe a wine that is austere. On the other hand, a wine defined as “Clunisien” displays more fruit forward flavors and elegance (Chambolle Amoureuses comes to mind!). The Citeaux Abbey had the goal to become a powerful political entity and the high quality of the wines of Clos Vougeot quickly became evident. Barrels of Clos Vougeot were used as gifts to the cardinals and even the pope. That was until Pope Urbain V declared that no such bribe should continue! But it didn’t stop the abbot at that time from sending 30 barrels to pope Urbain V’s successor, which made the abbot a cardinal not long after the generous donation…

The history took some extreme turns after, fast forwarding to the French Revolution that dispossessed the monks from the vineyard in 1789. The Clos was then sold as an auction piece in 1791 and was exchanged a few times between different businessmen, including Napoleon’s banker. The change of ownerships lasted for a hundred years and in 1889, six Burgundian negociants (including Liger-Belair) became the owners of the Clos. More divisions and complex ownerships followed resulting in 40 owners in 1920 and 80 today.

Are plots better at the top of the Clos? The slope is not that steep and the total elevation gain from the bottom of the slope by the road to the top near the Chateau is just about 50 meters. However, this is the most asked question around the wines of Clos Vougeot. Back when the monks made the wine, they would make one wine as a blend of the whole Clos but they also started to vinify plots separately and started to distinguish and isolate the better parcels, making different cuvees with a different use:

Wines made from the top of the Clos would be used as a gift to popes and kings, while the mid-slope would be reserved for bishops. Wines from the lower part of the Clos were deemed inferior in quality and given to everyone else.

I don’t know if wines are better at the top but my favorite Clos Vougeot is from Mugneret-Gibourg and their parcel is in fact at the top, near the Chateau. But location alone isn’t everything and we should not forget how the talent of the producer affects the wine.

Here are the wines we tasted at the session with my tasting notes:

Domaine Faiveley, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2018

3 plots are blended here. Interestingly, two at the bottom of the slope and the last one at the top. According to Faiveley, it gives them a great representation of the Clos as a whole and in dry years, the plots at the bottom help the blend because they retain water.

I thought the wine had a touch of rusticity which I often associate with both Clos Vougeot and Faiveley. 2018 is a concentrated vintage with enormous structure. A true Clos Vougeot with broad shoulders.

Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2016

Here we go! The elegance of the wine was obvious here. According to the Mugneret sisters, their Clos Vougeot offers the power of Ruchottes Chambertin with the elegance of Echezeaux. I couldn’t agree more. The story of the Mugneret-Gibourg parcel in the Clos is quite amazing. Founder Georges Mugneret was a fan of a Clos Vougeot made by his grandfather in 1929, coincidentally George’s birthyear. However, the family had sold their plot in Clos Vougeot. Georges reclaimed it as soon as he could afford to buy a parcel in the Clos; it is still in the family today. The wines was fabulous, even from an uneasy vintage like 2016.

Joseph Drouhin, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2017

Made from 2 plots with east exposure on a mild incline, one of them is owned by Drouhin while the other is purchased fruit.

I am a fan of the wines of Drouhin. Despite the large production, this emblematic negociant founded in 1880, who in fact owns 100 hectares in Burgundy, manages to produce elegant wines and this Clos Vougeot appeared to be one of my favorite ones in the session. I do love 2017 as a cool vintage that gave birth to fresh wines with bright red fruit aromas.

Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2016

Founded in 1902 and based in Vosne-Romanée, the name of Méo-Camuzet is regarded as a classic producer in the Côte d’Or and of course famous for the expert guidance of legendary winemaker Henri Jayer who had also been farming for Méo for forty years. Jean-Nicolas Méo, a true disciple of Jayer, continues to make exceptional wines one might describe as old school. No exuberant fruit bombs but maybe a more “cistercian” style, to refer back to that descriptor mentioned earlier in this article.

We revisited 2016 with this wine but this time, I found the earthy character of the vintage and almost a squareness in the wine to be more obvious. I really enjoyed the complexity of the wine however and the many layers if offered.

Domaine d’Eugénie, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2015 and 2011

Interestingly enough, this plot was once owned by the large negociant Leonce Boquet who was forced to sell in 1920 to Philippe Engel and Méo-Camuzet. Fast forward to 2006 when the Engel holdings were acquired by the Artemis Group, led by French billionaire Francois Pinault.

I find the quality of Domaine d’Eugénie to be very high. Of course it helps to own stellar plots like this one in the Clos Vougeot, one of the largest single parcels in the Clos! The wines are polished and close to perfection, which in many cases can in fact appear to be “boring”, but not here. The fruit is very expressive and tannins beautifully integrated. A wine of haute couture, it was very compelling to taste both 2015 and 2011 side by side. Each vintage very different with 2015 being the powerful, structured beast we could expect while the delicate green vegetal notes of 2011 offered a refreshing touch in the aromatic palette, dominated by black fruit.

Joseph Drouhin, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2005

We want to thank Andy Shapero for sharing his very own bottle of Drouhin 2005 to close the session. The wine showed its age beautifully, displaying secondary aromas of forest floor and earthy notes.

Château de Clos Vougeot