What's Pressoir Cooking? Choucroute Garnie
by Max Goldberg Liu
December 8, 2021
For those of you who don’t know, Edouard somewhat famously has a healthy obsession with Bœuf Bourguignon - the beef stew that is definitely in the top 5 of French comfort food. This involves frequently ordering the dish at restaurants, debating the pros and cons of different variations, and holding strong opinions on what constitutes a proper bœuf bourguignon and what does not.
I, in turn, have my own obsession with Choucroute Garnie, a dish that I believe is somewhat less associated with French cuisine here in the US but which, despite its regional origins, can now be found in nearly every corner of France.
Directly translating to “dressed sauerkraut,” Choucroute Garnie is essentially a plate of hot sauerkraut that has been warmed with aromatics and spices, topped with a variety of meats, and served with a side of potatoes.
Choucroute might seem out of place in French gastronomy, but it is said that the dish came from Eastern/Central Europe. Major areas of the Germanic regions of Alsace and Lorraine became part of France following the 1648 Treaty of Westphalia, that ended a long period of violence and devastation in Europe caused by the Thirty Years War and Eighty Years War.
While this would certainly not be the last time that Alsace and Lorraine would change hands until the modern day, the regional cuisines would remain firmly entrenched in French culture, particularly in the grand Brasseries, two of which make a particularly good choucroute: Brasserie Lipp in Paris’ 6th Arrondissement, where the dish is crowned with a mammoth glistening pork shank, and Brasserie Georges in Lyon opposite the Gare Perrache, whose massive portion (le plateau de choucroute) with sausages, pork belly, and pork loin can easily feed two (or just one hungry traveler…).
There are not many restaurants, unfortunately, here in New York that serve choucroute, so upon a recent craving, I took it upon myself to try to recreate it at home, which was somewhat easier than expected.
It’s really as simple as braising some high quality sauerkraut with onions, white wine, a little stock, garlic, juniper berries, caraway seeds, cloves, and bay leaf, and topping that with your preferred meats and some boiled potatoes. You can braise the meats with the kraut if you’d like but I thought this quick version was nearly as good. I kept things judicious with only some Schaller & Weber frankfurters and a roasted pork loin but you can go as big or as small as you’d like. Please just avoid Choucroute de la Mer if possible - I am a choucroute purist and believe that fish has no place in a proper choucroute!
The classic wine pairing is an Alsatian white like Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, or even Gewurtztraminer but it pairs wonderfully with any relatively dry white that isn’t too rich.
Choucroute Garnie Rapide
1 lb boneless pork loin
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons vegetable oil (or lard/duck fat)
1 medium yellow onion
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 tied bouquet garnie of 2 crushed garlic cloves, 5-10 dried juniper berries, 1 clove, 1/4 teaspoon caraway seed, 1 bay leaf
2 lbs good quality sauerkraut, drained
1 package natural casing frankfurters (Schaller & Weber makes a great one)
3-5 small Yukon gold potatoes, peeled, halved or quartered, and simmered in salted water until tender
Up to 48 hrs before cooking, generously season the pork loin on all sides and keep refrigerated on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet
Preheat oven to 250º-300ºF (depending on how well your oven can hold low temperatures). Cook the pork loin in the oven until an instant read thermometer reads 120ºF, around 1 hr. Set aside
In a large dutch oven, heat the oil or fat until shimmering. Add onions and cook until soft but not brown.
Meanwhile, in a colander, lightly rinse the sauerkraut to your desired level of tang, if necessary.
Add wine, bouquet garni of aromatics, and stock to the onions, stir, and cook over medium-high heat for 2 minutes.
Add sauerkraut, stir to combine, and lower heat to a bare simmer. Cover and cook for 30 minutes or until much of the liquid has been absorbed and the sauerkraut is deeply aromatic.
Preheat a cast iron pan over high heat with neutral oil. Quickly sear all sides of the reserved pork loin and sear, turning until well browned on all sides.
Fill a large saucepan with water and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add the frankfurters and simmer until heated through. Remove and keep warm.
Season the sauerkraut with salt to your desired level. Place a heaping amount on a warm plate, add 1-2 sausages, 2-3 slices of pork, and a few pieces of potato. Serve with strong Dijon mustard and white wine like Chablis or a dry Alsatian Riesling or Pinot Gris.