What's Pressoir Drinking
December 15, 2021
Edouard Bourgeois
Whenever I tell my friends I had a great bottle of Zinfandel, I really enjoy watching the surprise on their faces while their eyebrows reach the middle of their forehead. However, the ones who know me well also know that I am usually referring to one of the most serious producers in California when it comes to Zinfandel. And that is Ridge Vineyards.
The multi-estate enterprise cultivates vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Sonoma County and Paso Robles. It is the largest grower of certified organic grapes in the appellations of Sonoma County and the Santa Cruz Mountains. The business was founded in 1959 when three Stanford Research Institute engineers bought an abandoned winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The vineyards had been planted in the late 19th century by a San Francisco physician who produced his first vintage in the original winery, called Monte Bello, in 1892. The first Ridge vintage was in 1962. For more than 50 years Ridge’s winemaker and CEO was Paul Draper, a legendary figure in California winemaking I was lucky to meet in my early years as a sommelier in New York. Mr. Draper retired in 2016 but the estate still produces excellent wines.
If Zinfandel is mostly known for the affordable and mass produced “White Zin” which by the way accounts for 85% of the wine made, the red wines produced from that varietal is typically very bold, spicy and dark. I’ve always thought of it as a jacked up Chateauneuf du Pape.
Another name for Zinfandel is Primitivo, which is found in Italy. But actually its Croatian name of origin is Tribidrag. Useful geeky information…
I opened the bottle pictured below a week ago to accompany a juicy roasted pork shoulder (not pictured as it disappeared too quickly). The wine was impressively youthful, still very powerful but with so much nuance. This particular cuvée was made from fruits grown in the Jimsomare Ranch, just below the Ridge property. Cabernet, Zinfandel, Merlot and Chardonnay vines are planted there with the Bordeaux varieties most often making it into the Monte Bello blend. Most of the Zinfandel vines on the property date back to 1884 and the first Zinfandel made on the ranch was in 1968. Ridge also bottles wines for its Advance Tasting Program (ATP), a wine club founded in 1977, from the Jimsomare fruit and that bottle was one of them.
This was delicious and surely a great choice for the cold months of the holidays and to pair that comfort food we are all craving.
