What's Pressoir Drinking

Domaine Dujac Clos la Roche 1988

September 21, 2022
Edouard Bourgeois

Most of the Côte d’Or villages produce wines with a certain signature, or style. Chambolle-Musigny often produced wines described as elegant, lean and perfumed while Gevrey-Chambertin embodies the power and structure Pinot Noir may be capable to express. Between these two communes lies Morey-Saint-Denis, a somewhat misunderstood village, where the wines made are not easy to classify or describe in broad, general terms. I really agree with a common belief that Morey-Saint Denis vineyards will tend to borrow the characteristic of the appellation they’re close to, Gevrey to the north or Chambolle to the south. With seven Grands Crus climats, including a fascinating geological study of terres rouges and terres blanches in Bonnes Mares, wonderful wines are produced in the village each year. Among these Grands Crus is the Clos de la Roche, whose name can have an interesting story. As Laurent Ponsot, an important figure in the village explains, the name could derive from the flat rock in the vineyard that was once used for sacrifices during Druidical times…

Domaine Dujac was born in 1967 when Jacques Seysses bought Domaine Graillet in Morey-Saint-Denis. After an apprenticeship with legend Gérard Potel of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or and with inspiration from his idols Charles Rousseau, Henri Gouges and Aubert de Villaine, Jacques released his first vintage under the label Domaine Dujac with the glorious 1969 harvest. 1968 was technically the first year he vinified; unfortunately it happened to be a mediocre vintage, sold off in bulk. The domaine quickly gained the recognition it deserved and is today considered to be among the very finest in the world.

Organic farming has been intensely developed since 2001 with biodynamic experiments. The domaine has also historically been known for a generous inclusion of stems during the winemaking. Jacques explains that using whole bunches helps keep the fruit intact, without bruising the berries and obviously the style of wine it produces - typically lighter colored but fragrant and delicate is what he adores. Typically lighter in color, I’ve always found these wines to have a ballerina elegance. I had the chance to taste an incredible bottle of Dujac Clos la Roche 1988 (note a different spelling here as the domaine changed to Clos de la Roche with the 1991 vintage) and this wine had a feather touch while delivering impressive presence and so much life for a 34 year old wine.  

Domaine Dujac bought their parcel of Clos de La Roche mostly from the initial 1968 acquisition of Domaine Graillet, adding some parcels in 1977 and 1990.

What's Pressoir Drinking

December 15, 2021
Edouard Bourgeois

Whenever I tell my friends I had a great bottle of Zinfandel, I really enjoy watching the surprise on their faces while their eyebrows reach the middle of their forehead. However, the ones who know me well also know that I am usually referring to one of the most serious producers in California when it comes to Zinfandel. And that is Ridge Vineyards.

The multi-estate enterprise cultivates vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Sonoma County and Paso Robles. It is the largest grower of certified organic grapes in the appellations of Sonoma County and the Santa Cruz Mountains. The business was founded in 1959 when three Stanford Research Institute engineers bought an abandoned winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The vineyards had been planted in the late 19th century by a San Francisco physician who produced his first vintage in the original winery, called Monte Bello, in 1892. The first Ridge vintage was in 1962. For more than 50 years Ridge’s winemaker and CEO was Paul Draper, a legendary figure in California winemaking I was lucky to meet in my early years as a sommelier in New York. Mr. Draper retired in 2016 but the estate still produces excellent wines.

If Zinfandel is mostly known for the affordable and mass produced “White Zin” which by the way accounts for 85% of the wine made, the red wines produced from that varietal is typically very bold, spicy and dark. I’ve always thought of it as a jacked up Chateauneuf du Pape.

Another name for Zinfandel is Primitivo, which is found in Italy. But actually its Croatian name of origin is Tribidrag. Useful geeky information…

I opened the bottle pictured below a week ago to accompany a juicy roasted pork shoulder (not pictured as it disappeared too quickly). The wine was impressively youthful, still very powerful but with so much nuance. This particular cuvée was made from fruits grown in the Jimsomare Ranch, just below the Ridge property. Cabernet, Zinfandel, Merlot and Chardonnay vines are planted there with the Bordeaux varieties most often making it into the Monte Bello blend. Most of the Zinfandel vines on the property date back to 1884 and the first Zinfandel made on the ranch was in 1968. Ridge also bottles wines for its Advance Tasting Program (ATP), a wine club founded in 1977, from the Jimsomare fruit and that bottle was one of them.

This was delicious and surely a great choice for the cold months of the holidays and to pair that comfort food we are all craving.