Pressoir Dinner - Côte Rôtie - Recap

Did you know? Côte Rôtie is an appellation that went through some really difficult times and in fact almost disappeared back in the 1940’s after the WWII. Combine the lack of labor, unprofitability and extremely hard working conditions and you end up with a mere few dozens of hectares still in production back then. But luckily, the Phoenix rose from the ashes and today, it is around 230 hectares of vines planted under the appellation Côte Rôtie. If 230 hectares doesn’t speak to you, well, Prospect Park in Brooklyn is 213 hectares, you’re welcome.

This is a recap of a fabulous dinner Nikita and I hosted at Hearth on April 15th. Here are our notes!

Domaine Clusel Roch, Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places 2005 :

EDOUARD: Still very young, the wine was marked with the firmness of the vintage and it took half an hour to start detangling the tight structure. Nevertheless a serious wine. Les Grandes Places was the first vineyard purchased by the Clusels in 1935, a great name in Côte Rôtie with their winery located at the northern end of the appellation.

SURPRISE BOTTLE FROM OUR FRIEND BRIAN ORCUTT: Rostaing, Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde 2010:

EDOUARD: A powerful style with notes of oak still perceptible, really interesting to compare with the 2005 magnum

Domaine Jean Michel Stephan, Côte-Rôtie Coteaux de Bassenon 2018

EDOUARD: Very unique Côte-Rôtie born of a blend of 40% Syrah, 40% Serine and 20% Viognier! Note: Serine is difficult to define but can be considered as the old cousin of Syrah, some will say the real Syrah of the Rhône, whose birthplace is in fact in the steep hills of Côte Rôtie. 20% Viognier is the maximum amount allowed in the blend but is rarely seen. Cool! The wines certainly showed floral notes and aromatic exuberance.

NIKITA: Côteaux de Bassenon is the most southerly vineyards in Côte-Rôtie and the majority of Jean-Michel’s vines in this parcel were planted in 1896. I don’t have much experience with a Côte Rôtie with 20% Viognier, so I was excited to open this up. The nose on this wine was unique,

Maison Stephan, Côte-Rôtie Coteaux de Tupin 2018

EDOUARD: From the same self proclaimed natural producer, Cotaux de Tupin is a different beast. This vineyard is all Serine, planted on gneiss and showed a more blackfruit, earthy personality.

Francois Villard, Côte-Rôtie Le Gallet Blanc 2018

EDOUARD: Change of scenery with Francois Villard, who owns 40 hectares and buys from another 24! Adept of whole cluster fermentation, Villard became certified organic in 2019 and his vineyards are mostly planted on schist rather than granite. I thought it was a very pretty wine, curiously not so much reminiscent of the black olives and bacon fat often found in that part of the appellation. I think the whole cluster fermentation provided a certain freshness and airiness. Quite floral too.

Domaine Jean Michel Gerin, Côte-Rôtie Vialliere 2017

EDOUARD: The vintage was tough with hail storms that dramatically reduced yields but what remained was wonderful and concentrated. Alexis Gerin today runs the show as the 3rd generation and he is a buddy of Guillaume Clusel from Clusel Roch mentioned above. Gerin prefers to use a destemmer and that parcel is from rather young vines (18 years old). Good wine but a touch reduced and the oak was still not very integrated.

Domaine Jean Michel Gerin, Côte-Rôtie Le Champin Seigneur 2017

EDOUARD: Similar notes regarding oak and reduction here.

Francois Villard, Côte-Rôtie Le Gallet Blanc 2017

EDOUARD: Back to Villard with again this elegant style and floral notes of violet.

Domaine Clusel Roch, Côte-Rôtie 2010

EDOUARD: A flight dedicated to Clusel Roch was a must! 2010 was exceptional in the region and this cuvee, now called cuvee Schist, is a blend of parcels all around the property in the northern portion of Côte-Rôtie. I always like this wine. Clusel partially destems and does a really good job with that process, finding perfect balance.

Domaine Clusel Roch, Côte-Rôtie Vialliere 2010

EDOUARD: Vialliere is located directly under Les Grandes Places and sits at 200-230m of altitude. The vineyard is rich in mica-schist and gives a more powerful wine. We are back to the more concentrated style of Grandes Places although a bit more “easy” and approachable. Here, the black olive notes were present.

SURPRISE BOTTLE FROM OUR FRIEND BRIAN ORCUTT: and what a surprise because it was Domaine Jamet, Côte Rôtie Côte Brune 1999!

EDOUARD: I have had some of my most intense wine emotions with Domaine Jamet. The wines are always intriguing and as they age, become simply dazzling. The first nose suggested those floral notes mentioned earlier but going back to the glass, I found a hint of smoke, later, another aromatic layer blossomed to unveil curious spices, cigar box and damp earth. Simply incredible and I know for a fact, still young because I was lucky to taste a bottle of 1990 that provided even more depth! It should be noted that 1999 was outstanding in the northern Rhône, with a few critics comparing it to 1947…

The wine of the night (so far!)

E. Guigal, Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 1989

EDOUARD: How to finish with a bang? Open a flight of old Lala’s…

Guigal is a highly respected northern Rhone producer (now also in the South) that did so much to revive these once abandoned vineyards. Another influential personality who played a crucial role in the reputation of these wines was wine critic Robert Parker who fell in love with the iconic Cote Rôtie of Guigal in the 1980’s he playfully rebaptized the Lala’s (La Landonne, La Turque and La Mouline)

Today, Guigal is responsible for a third of the Côte Rôtie production.

1989 was a year of drought that gave rich and opulent wines, especially here with La Landonne, a particularly steep vineyard (45% incline) nestled in the northern portion of the Côte Brune and high in iron oxide. Rarely destemmed, La Landonne is typically a powerhouse, but its decades of age helped taming the beast. Excellent, brooding wine.

NIKITA: Angular, that was the word that kept coming to me when I tried this La Landonne. Felt like this could just keep aging.

E. Guigal, Côte-Rôtie La Mouline 1988

EDOUARD: Interestingly, 1988 lived in the shadow of 1989, deemed exceptional. But this 1988 La Mouline was in fact my favorite wine of the night. I found it Burgundian and extremely refined. It is almost irrelevant to compare it to La Landonne 1989 because the vintages were very different with 1988 a cooler vintage. The two vineayrds are also very different. If La Landonne is located in the Côte Brune, La Mouline is part of the Côte Blonde to the south where granite reigns supreme. It is also the oldest vineyard of Côte-Rôtie. It is mostly destemmed by Guigal and around 10% of Viognier is co-planted with Syrah.

NIKITA: This was an enticing wine from start to finish.

Patrick Jasmin, Côte-Rôtie 1988

EDOUARD: A beautiful comparison of the vintage with an excellent bottle from Jasmin. A pioneer when it comes to bottling its own wines, Jasmin started doing so in 1909 after starting working as the chef of Chateau d’Ampuis! While he was working in the kitchen and always loved the wines of the region, a vineyard nearby became available and he bought it, literally throwing his apron! I find the wines from Jasmin very elegant. Whole cluster was the rule there until 1996 when destemming started as the newer generation took over the winery. This 1988 was youthful and beautifully perfumed.

NIKITA: Jasmin from the late 80’s and early 90’s somehow always deliver, a great example of why so many lovers of Burgundy appreciate Côte-Rôtie. Quite elegant.

Pressoir Dinner - Strolling Through Burgundy Recap

Edouard Bourgeois
August 25, 2023

We strolled through Burgundy’s vineyards during a tasting of twelve wines at Al Coro last Thursday and as one would expect, we were blessed with the charm of the pure Chardonnay and fragrant Pinot Noir grown in this very special place. Here is my recap and tasting notes.

We opened the party with a flight of 2007. The vintage is known for its light profile and pronounced acidity. In other words, this is a year that was not hammered by extreme heat unlike more recent years. The result is a fresh expression of Pinot, reminiscent of red berries such as cranberries and tart cherries. Even Galleyrand’s Gevrey-Chambertin, an appellation that’s typically associated with bold wines, showed finesse and a light body. It should be mentioned that Galleyrand uses whole cluster and his winemaking style is more geared towards infusion rather than extraction. The second wine was a superb Volnay from Ben Leroux’s monopoly Clos de la Cave des Ducs. Really impressive and perfectly balanced, it was among the favorites of the night without a doubt. Ben really pampers this Volnay’s half hectare plot with biodynamic farming of a massale selection from Clos des Epeneaux, in Pommard. We closed this 2007 flight with a more concentrated Nuits Saint Georges Les Vaucrains from legendary Domaine Henri Gouges. Founded in 1919, the domaine was among the first ones to label their soulful Nuits St Georges under their family name, and it has been regarded as a leading estate in the village for generations. The typically low yielding Vaucrains is located just above the iconic climat of Les Saint Georges. Although plenty dense, the wine didn’t lack juiciness and the dark fruit gave it an intriguing, complex personality.

We followed with three remarkable wines from the more solar 2009 vintage with the pasta course. Domaine des Croix, a specialist when it comes to the Beaune appellation, bottles six different climats of Beaune with impressive precision. Here, his Pertuisots gave an interesting perspective of a Burgundy with wider shoulders. The heady aromas of figs were a reminder of the hot weather in 2009. More Mediterranean, it remained an excellent bottle. Hudelot Noellat’s Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Murgers was irresistible and full of charm. I am often impressed with the wines of this excellent producer, now led by the founder’s grandson Charles Van Canneyt. Murgers is part of the northern portion of the village, close to Vosne-Romanee, where it seems to borrow the classy aromatic frame. Finally, a more rustic 2009 from Bruno Clair’s Gevrey Cazetiers offered yet another style, interesting to compare. Neighbor of the one and only Clos-Saint-Jacques, Cazetiers benefits from an ideal geological matter and is a touch warmer than Clos Saint Jacques. I was however surprised by an unexpected vegetal note in the wine that translated into a quite lovely menthol finish. Hudelot Noellat was my favorite of the flight.

Jumping back in time with the main course, we served three expressive wines from 2005. Pierre Morey’s Pommard ended up showing a disappointing cork taint, but we were able to replace it on the spot with a red Chassagne Morgeot 2005 from Lamy Pillot, served blind. As expected, tannins were felt and the wine was quite rustic, true to its appellation. Lafarge’s Clos du Chateau des Ducs 2005 clearly won first prize, not only for this flight but maybe as the wine of the night. It showed the best of 2005, with ripe, sweet cherries, a cocktail of red fruits but with a very refined profile. The half hectare vineyard is a bit like the Lafarge’s family garden, nestled just outside the family house. Chickens roam loose in between the rows of “Pinot Fin” (the delicate cultivar of Pinot prized in Burgundy) and participate in the regeneration of the biodynamically farmed soils. The site is warmer because of the walls that surround it, therefore this Clos gives a rich and generous wine, especially in a vintage like 2005. The third wine of the 2005 flight was a weighty Corton Clos du Roi from De Montille. The plot was recently purchased by the estate from Thomas Moillard and this was in fact the first vintage of Clos du Roi produced by De Montille. With an eastern exposure just above the famous Bressandes, this Corton was huge with no lack of alcohol! A bit much for my taste.

As it is often seen in Burgundy, we decided to serve white  wines to close the dinner. And what a flight to end the night! 2011 is a vintage that clearly performed better for white wines than it did for red in Burgundy. We started with a pristine Genevrières from Antoine Jobard. This 1er Cru of Meursault needs no introduction. In the hands of expert winemaker Antoine, who favors extra long aging, around 24 months with very little intervention, the wine was extremely vivid and fresh even after over a decade of age. Smoky with a touch of butter and candied lemon drop, it was close to perfection. Bouchard’s mythical Corton Charlemagne surely didn’t disappoint either. The talent of the domaine to produce white wine was evident. Broader than the Meursault, with notes of caramel, the Corton Charlie was lush without falling into gaudiness. The acidity didn’t fail to provide the lip-smacking finish that makes you want another sip. Lastly another Grand Cru, this time from Etienne Sauzet, was poured. The Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, developed a lovely anise flavor and undeniable Grand Cru material with plenty of texture.

Pressoir Dinner Recap - Domaine Bernard Morey

Edouard Bourgeois
August 10, 2023

While too many white Burgundies have been prone to premature oxidation since the mid-90’s, we were incredibly happy with how pristine all the wines from Bernard Morey were a couple weeks ago at Popina. On that hot and humid night in Brooklyn, all twelve jeroboams we opened were phenomenal, without exception. We focused on three vintages, very distinctive ones too. 2000, known for the heat that in many cases gave birth to chubby whites; 2001, a challenging year some like to call a “millesime de vigneron” where talent is key to succeed and finally 2002, the “easy” vintage that gave an abundant harvest of healthy grapes, a blessing from Bacchus.

All the wines showed greatness and purity, a very welcome feature on such a hot night!

As the family name Morey is quite common in Burgundy and especially in Chassagne, a little family tree recap might be useful. Bernard Morey made his last vintage in 2006 and his vineyards were then split between his two sons Vincent and Thomas. Each brother has been making wine in their own style, Vincent at his dad’s winery and Thomas at Bernard’s father winery (Albert Morey). Albert is in fact the one who started it all. His son Bernard created his eponymous domaine but another son Jean-Marc Morey did the same. Jean-Marc then had a daughter, Caroline Morey, who married Pierre-Yves Colin, the man behind PYCM, one of the most famous wine domaine acronyms after DRC…

Welcome glass: Bernard Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Vide Bourse" 2002

As this climat was the only vintage we had, we decided to pour it first as what we like to call ‘l’apéro’. Vide-Bourse is a serious wine though and not very often seen. Of Bernard’s two sons, it is Thomas who got to tend the vineyard of Vide Bourse and only Marc Colin, Fernand Pillot and Gabriel Jouard share the rest of the climat. Just below the authoritative Batard Montrachet, Vide Bourse is sometimes referred to as the ‘petit Batard’.

First flight:

Bernard Morey, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "La Truffière" 2002

Bernard Morey, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "La Truffière" 2001

Bernard Morey, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "La Truffière" 2000

It seems obvious to start with the only flight of Puligny as the wines are typically brighter and weightless. Truffiere is perched high up on the slope just below the Hameau de Blagny, and it is apparently where truffles grow, hence the name. Benoit Ente or Jean-Marc Boillot also make wine there. I found the 2000 to be very charming despite the usual style of the vintage. It had a bit of extra fluff that the wine wore well.

Second flight:

Bernard Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru "Morgeot" 2002

Bernard Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru "Morgeot" 2000

With a total of 58 hectares, Morgeot is arguably the most famous climat of Chassagne. It is in fact so large that it is divided into different lieux-dit; a similar situation is seen in the Clos Vougeot. While Morgeot is famous for making some of the best red Chassagne, this flight didn’t disappoint and once again here, I found the 2000 to be the most compelling of the three wines, as it displayed elegance and a long finish.

Third flight:

Bernard Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Baudines" 2002

Bernard Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Embrazées" 2001

Bernard Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Baudines" 2000

If Morgeot is often associated with red wine, then Baudines is undoubtedly a white wine terroir. The abundance of limestone gives the irresistible salinity white Burgundy lovers can’t get enough of. Baudines is part of the Bois de Chassagne and its lowest vines are planted at an altitude of 300 meters. However, despite its location at the top of the slope, the topsoil is still quite rich. Both vintages were pitch perfect, in their own individual way. Embrazées, sometimes spelled Embazées, is the most famous wine of Bernard Morey because he was almost the sole owner, sharing the rest of the climat with Domaines Prieur Brunet and Gauffroy who own 2 small plots. Embrazées is also part of the Bois de Chassagne and is in fact right below Baudines. The soil is surprisingly poorer in Embrazées. I found the 2001 to be a tad ‘hot’ on the finish but certainly very pleasing. 

Fourth flight:

Bernard Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru "Les Caillerets" 2002

Bernard Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru "Les Caillerets" 2001

Bernard Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru "Les Caillerets" 2000

A familiar term in the Côte d’Or, Cailleret refers to the high concentration of limestone suggesting the presence of a quarry and the promise of high minerality in wine made under that climat name. Once again high up on the slope, Chassagne Cailleret was once planted with Pinot Noir but Chardonnay reigns supreme now. 2002 was my wine of the night, perfectly balanced and precise. Once again, 2001 showed a touch of heat like the Embrazees that same year and surprisingly it is the 2000 that appeared cleaner with sharp acidity. 

Pressoir Dinner Recap - Domaine Pierre Morey

Edouard Bourgeois
July 25, 2023

On Thursday last week, we had the pleasure of hosting some of you at a memorable dinner at Hearth and I think I can speak for everyone who attended to say the wines of Domaine Pierre Morey certainly met expectations.

Here is a little recap of my tasting notes but first a few words on the domaine. It is no wonder that the family name Morey is so present in Burgundy, especially in Meursault, where the family settled back in 1793. Immediately, the Moreys started growing grapes and making wine, generation after generation, perpetuating the name through marriages over the decades and even centuries. But going back to Domaine Pierre Morey, it is Pierre’s father Auguste who started playing an important role for the future domaine, as a sharecropper for the Lafon family (another famous name in Meursault with Jules Lafon, founder of La Paulée de Meursault a hundred years ago and his eponymous Domaine des Comtes Lafon). When Pierre Morey joined his father, he created what we know today as Domaine Pierre Morey. This was in 1971. Until 1984, Pierre was still in a sharecropping agreement with the Lafon family, making stellar wines from the best appellation of Meursault. 1984 marked the end of these sharecropping contracts and the Lafons recuperated full control of their vineyards. But shortly after, in 1988, Pierre was assigned the prestigious role of cellar master at the celebrated Domaine Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet. He excelled there for twenty years and was responsible for making wines that are still considered legendary today, while still making wine under his own name at Domaine Pierre Morey.

For about two decades now, Pierre’s daughter, Anne, has joined the family domaine, already converted to biodynamic practices since 1997. The wines continue to impress a loyal clientele of sommeliers and enthusiasts around the world.

RECEPTION:

We picked a trio of Aligotés from three different vintages: 2020, 2018 and 2014. All showed refinement and proved their ability to age, two features that are not often associated with that grape variety. The domaine planted their first Aligoté in 1969, all in the commune of Meursault on the clay-rich plots they own. What a great way to kick off this dinner!

FIRST FLIGHT:

A meli-melo of village Meursault from three vintages.

First, a 2019 Meix Tavaux, not to be confused with its more famous neighbor Meix Chavaux across the small valley that separates them. This wine is rarely seen as 2019 was the first vintage made by Pierre Morey and it comes from tiny parcel of just 0.29 ha. Beautiful, clean wine…

Meursault 2018: A blend of three parcels (Forges, Pellans and Chaumes), it perfectly illustrated the epitome of Meursault, with generosity while full of vitality in that vintage.

Terres Blanches 2017 closed the first flight brilliantly. The vineyard is on rather flat land right next to 1er Cru Goutte d’Or.

SECOND FLIGHT:

This vertical of Tessons did not disappoint!

Sourced from a 0.89 ha plot, Domaine Pierre Morey proves here the superior quality of this village level wine. While many wonder why Tessons was not ranked among 1er crus, the Moreys may have the explanation. This climat has been known for its remarkable quality for centuries and Dr. Jules Lavalle made no mistake when he ranked it “1ere Cuvee” back in 1855 with his own classification. But then the phylloxera crisis hit. And while most vineyards were replanted in time for the INAO government regulated appellation system, Tessons had been instead used for housing with not enough vines for the INAO to consider it 1er cru. Tessons only started to be replanted with vines in the 1950’s, two decades after the official ranking system was put in place.

2018, a vintage characterized by intense heat but large volumes of juice was excellent, showing precision and no “hot aromatics”.

2017, a perceptible acidity was felt and underlined intense minerality.

2013, While I find this vintage often difficult to love for red Burgundy, I have had better luck with whites. It was my favorite of this flight. Ten years looked great on this Tesson, perfectly delineated and homogeneous.

THIRD FLIGHT:

Perrieres is arguably the most famous and recognizable 1er cru of Meursault. Perched higher on the slope, its intense minerality can sometimes be a bit austere and the wines might need more time to soften up and gain charm. But it is important to point out that Perrieres is divided into two areas: Perrieres Dessus (above) and Perrieres Dessous (below) with the latter richer in top soil which gives roundness to its wines. Domaine Pierre Morey owns its 0.52 ha plot of Perrieres in the “Dessous”. Perfectly located, it is protected from the wind and receives generous sunlight.

2014: The classic example of Perrieres, electric and superior. A reminder of how special this climat is. From the moment I opened the bottle to a few hours alter, I tasted the multitude of facets it offered.

2010: My favorite of the flight. Such a gorgeous vintage for white Burgundy. Pitch perfect and screaming minerality.               

2009: I was first impressed by the freshness despite the nature of this hot vintage. However, I felt that the wine showed its true colors after aeration, revealing more alcohol on the nose, nonetheless a great wine.

FOURTH FLIGHT:

How to finish with a bang?

The grand finale was assured by a stunning vertical of Batard Montrachet, one of the Grands Crus in the communes of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. In comparison to its neighbor, Batard often stands out with a big personality, a wine that can be massive in fact. However, I have always thought that in the hands of Pierre Morey, the beast is tamed and the minerality is mesmerizing. This could be explained by the fact that the domaine owns a plot in the upper section of the Grand Cru in the Clos Poirier, just below Montrachet and in the commune of Puligny-Montrachet.

2011: Really youthful and incredibly complex. This wine still has a long life ahead. It started to show lovely notes of evolution, suggesting orange peel and the impressive volume of Batard. Maybe the wine of the night.

2005: Another hit. Although more sturdy than 2011, this concentrated wine showed ample ripeness but not too much of it either. Impressively long finish and an exotic profile of tropical fruit with accents of pineapple and even pear.

1988: unfortunately, this bottle was corked but we were able to replace it with a bottle of Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 1992 from Morey-Blanc (the negociant label) The golden color showed evolution but the wine remained very pleasurable and characteristic of the rich profile of the climat.  

Recap - Pressoir.wine Dinner Chevillon

by Edouard Bourgeois
Friday, March 24, 2023

Domaine Chevillon has been around for quite a while. The family traces back its history in winemaking to the early 1900’s and the current fifth generation is led by brothers Bertrand and Denis, following the teachings of their father Robert who retired in 2003. As traditional as it gets, the winemaking is expertly managed. Despite a recent trend in the region where more and more domaines decide to include whole cluster in their fermentation process, at Chévillon grapes are fully destemmed. The result is a wine with deep color and an authentic Nuits-St-Georges with plenty of structure and black fruit. With age, Chevillon’s wines are stunning and the one thing that fascinates me about the style of the domaine is the rigorous consistency of the quality, one vintage after the other. As you will read below in the tasting notes recap, we decided to show both “easy” vintages and some more challenging ones. The consistency could be explained by the strict use of very old vines, usually around 50 years old but sometimes well into their 70s.

The first flight was a vertical of the Premier Cru Chaignots. Named after the oak trees (Chênes in French) that once grew there, the vineyard is located in the northern portion of the appellation, close to Vosne-Romanée. Typically fresh in style with good acidity, Chaignots was a great “opener”. 2017 was electric. Too young? Certainly. But so much pleasure. Tannins were present but refined and the acidity obviously still high. 2012, a more challenging vintage due to erratic weather patterns and mildew pressure, showed the expected concentration and tightness both on the nose and the palate. I found the wine to be quite tannic but certainly a good pairing with the first beet dish. Many guests I spoke to liked this 2012 and the one served after. Finally for this flight, the warm vintage 2009 surprised me. One should expect 2009 to express the hot weather patterns associated with that year and it was certainly a signature here but I would have liked a bit more balance and I found some “raisiny” notes plus a wine that showed more age than I had expected.

Moving on to the same trio of vintages, this time from the climat Roncières. Planted on a very steep slope at 20% incline, Roncières got its name from the gnarly bramble bushes that covered the area before Pinot Noir made its home there. The Chevillon work one hectare on this climat, located this time south of the village. The 2017 once again showed vibrant youth with more homogeneity than Chaignots. A great bottle. I couldn’t get past the distraction of a rather strong grapefruit rind flavor profile in the 2012. A pronounced bitterness marked the palate and lingered. 2012 might be in a bizarre phase right now. Again here I think the food pairing Pascaline and Chef Jonathan came up with was excellent. A perfectly cooked Arctic char was served with the Roncières flight. 2009 showed better than in the first flight. More balanced and the wine started to express black fruits and a suave texture.

The hanger steak was paired with an incredible vertical of “Cailles”. We took a leap back in time here with a beautiful trio, starting with a gorgeous 2010. With more acidity than in 2009, 2010 gave great results in Burgundy, especially in the Côte de Nuits. We just wish the quantity produced were higher. Cailles 2010 was in a lovely stage of its life. Impressive balance and real depth. Plenty of black cherry and just a hint of secondary aromas suggested a great evolution ahead of this wine. And then, 2003… This atypical vintage marked a new era in many European vineyards and the punishing heat waves that year gave birth to extreme wines. Even in Burgundy, one can be mistaken with a wine from the Rhône when tasting these powerful cuvées. The consistency I referred to above when it comes to Chevillon really came into play here as the 2003 Cailles remained charming. Sure the vintage style was present, with drying tannins and a bit of a short finish, but aromatics were pretty, suggesting roasted plum.

We closed the flight with arguably the wine of the night: Cailles 1990. The expectations were high but they were met. An overall blessed vintage for Burgundians, that is the year when Denis and Bertrand created the family company with their father Robert. The richness and power from 1990 was enhanced by the generous and joyful character of Cailles. Here the vines are almost 80 years old and planted on a clay-rich soil. The wine had irresistible sweetness and beautiful secondary notes of forest floor and underbrush while bursting with red fruit.    

The last flight was built around the same last vintages (2010, 2003 and 1990) but from “Vaucrains” this time. Interestingly, “Vaucrains” comes from the French “vaux rien” literally meaning “worthless”. If the wine made there certainly is highly valuable, it is the land that was considered for a long time worth very little because nothing would grow. Steep and hard to work, it is also one of the few vineyards in Burgundy to be planted with a slight northern exposure. It is located just above the previous Cailles and next to the prestigious “Les Saint-Georges”, all of them once again in the southern portion of the appellation.

2010 seemed more closed than its cousin Cailles. The nose required oxygen but blossomed nicely after a while. I thought the 2003 showed even better than Cailles 2003, with less of the “‘03 hot style” and deep aromas of roasted fig and tar. Finally, the 1990 Vaucrains showed more austerity than Cailles. A touch dirty suggested the presence of TCA. It certainly didn’t perform as brilliantly as the Cailles 90.  

Pressoir.Wine Dinner Recap – Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg

Pressoir.Wine Dinner – Mugneret-Gibourg

 It is always such a pleasure to revisit the gorgeous wines from this family that we like so much. The Mugneret sisters are running an impeccable eight hectare estate spread on nine different appellations, mostly concentrated around Vosne-Romanée, where the winery has been based since 1933. Although the domaine was founded that year, important vineyards were acquired with the second generation, embodied by the legendary Georges Mugneret who purchased plots in various Premiers Crus of Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos Vougeot, Chambolle 1er Cru Feusselottes and the mythical Ruchottes Chambertin, acquired from Thomas Bassot. Georges Mugneret made the domaine famous but the generations that followed, driven by women, have been making stunning wines - brilliant and authentic wines - that are often placed at the highest level.

After Georges passed away suddenly in 1988, both his daughters helped their mother at the domaine. They changed the name back to Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg in 2009 (Georges Mugneret had named it Domaine Georges Mugneret when he took over). Today, Lucie (Marie-Christine’s daughter) oversees the winemaking while Marie Andrée’s daughters Fanny and Marion are also involved in the family activities.

1st FLIGHT: VOSNE-ROMANEE

Our dinner focused on four wines from various vintages, starting with a flight of Vosne-Romanée. The domaine sources this village level wine from five climats, all acquired from the initial 1930’s domaine creation (Champ Gourdin, Croix Blanche, Colombiere, Pré de la Folie and Chalandin).

2018. I still feel the heat of that vintage in red Burgundy overall. Although I will say this bottle was very elegant. It was a good idea to double decant it I think.

2017. A very different wine with fresh acidity. In 2017, the domaine decided to light up bonfires in the vineyards in April to avoid frost damage on the young buds. Interestingly enough, it is not the heat of these fires that helped fight the frost effect but the smoke it created. That screen of smoke reduced the burning effect of the sunlight on the ice-covered buds.

2015. That vintage showed beautifully in each flight. The hot and sunny summer of that year produced concentrated wines with tannins that took some time to soften but patience is rewarding us today.

2ND FLIGHT: NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1er CRU CHAIGNOTS

“A Nuits with hints of Vosne”, according to the family. The Chaignots vineyard was acquired by the visionary Georges Mugneret who purchased these vineyards in 1971, along with the parcels of Clos Vougeot, Ruchottes-Chambertin and Chambolle Feusselottes, purchased during that same decade.

2017. Overall, the flight of Chaignots was marked by sharp acidity and I almost feel like we could have reversed the order on flight #1 and flight #2. 2017 was particularly austere but in the best way, reminiscent of tart griotte cherries.

2015. Another delicious 2015 here, offering darker fruit and a meatier wine with depth and concentration as the ultimate vintage signature.

2014. This challenging vintage rewarded the vignerons who were meticulous enough to sort out grapes affected by rot. An invading fruit fly hungry for black grapes did a lot of damage in 2014, in Burgundy but also in the northern Rhône Valley where Syrah suffered from the insect bite. It is not a surprise to find a beautifully balanced wine here as we know the Mugneret sisters’ attention to details and skill.

3RD FLIGHT: ECHEZEAUX GRAND CRU

With nearly 100 acres, the Grand Cru Echezeaux is a large appellation where quality can vary. With two plots, one located in the upper portion of the slope (Rouges du Bas) and one in the lower one (Quartiers de Nuits), Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg is able to offer a complete lecture of the vineyard and the wine is superb.

2015. Irresistible notes of kirsch. Magnificent and multi-layered.

2014. Another gorgeous wine, maybe my favorite of the night, most certainly because of the surprise factor. I didn’t expect such a generous aromatic burst from a 2014. Blooming with red fruits and almost exuberant.

2011. A very similar happy surprise here. While 2011 is often overwhelmingly vegetal and green, this wine was solidly anchored with high quality tannins and developed beautiful violet flowers laced with cranberries and damp earth. Congratulations on making such a pretty wine in such a difficult, rainy season.

4TH FLIGHT: RUCHOTTES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU

“A Chambertin raised in Vosne” as legend Henri Jayer wrote about Ruchottes. Georges purchased his parcel of Ruchottes from the Thomas Bassot estate after M. Rousseau himself decided not to buy it all for himself! This rocky vineyard with very little topsoil is located at the end of the Combe de Lavaux and mirrors the Clos saint Jacques, on the other side of the Combe.

2015. Another slam dunk for 2015! Real Grand Cru material with intensity, built like an athlete.

2014. Back to sharper acidity, fortunately balanced by enough depth and a lovely grippy texture, excellent with food.

2011. I felt the green undertones that are characteristic of the vintage, more obvious here than with the Echezeaux. Nevertheless, a gorgeous wine.

Pressoir.wine Dinner - Pierre Gonon recap

January 27, 2023
by Edouard Bourgeois

Jean Gonon was only twenty years old when he started making wine alongside his brother Pierre and their father Pierre. It was in 1986 and the two brothers released their first vintage together in 1988. Not much has changed at the estate since then. Jean focuses on the farming while his brother is the man in the cellar, but he is also managing the horses that plough the precious land.

Father Pierre started as a vigneron in 1956 although back then, wines of the northern Rhône were certainly not where they are today in terms of recognition, which explains why many farmers would prefer growing apricots or cherries rather than the labor-intensive grapes to make wines they were not sure would sell. So, until 1964, the Gonons would sell their grapes to local negociant Chapoutier to ensure revenue. Raymond Trollat, another highly respected vigneron in the area, started bottling his own wine earlier in the 1950’s, leading the way to daring emancipation. Others followed such as the Grippat family in the 1970’s.

But back to Gonon. I remember tasting my first bottle years ago. I was with a bunch of sommeliers on my day off from restaurant Daniel and someone opened this “simple vin de pays” called “Les Iles Ferays”. Talk about a “sommelier wine” … I couldn’t believe vin de pays could taste so good! As I found out later on, it turns out this bottling is quite rare with less than an hectare of vines planted and it comes from the flatter land, technically in Saint-Joseph, but Gonon prefers to bottle separately as vin de pays instead. That already tells a lot about the level of dedication from this family who saves the very best, hillside vineyard grapes to produce what Jean calls the real Saint-Joseph. It needs to be said, the appellation Saint Joseph has an issue. It started as a mere one hundred of hectares spread around 10 villages on these hillside vineyards where granite reigns supreme along with gneiss. But in the early 1970’s, political decisions led to expand the appellation area stretching it all the way north by Côte-Rôtie, not only spanning many different micro-climates but also including the flat lands as part of the appellation. The result was inevitable. Today Saint-Joseph doesn’t mean much in terms of quality and unfortunately, consumers can easily be disappointed. Gonon’s Saint Joseph is always made from grapes grown in the initial designated area of the appellation, indisputably the best vineyards.

When you ask the very affable Jean Gonon the simple question “what do you do to make such good wine?” he quietly answers that the wine is made in the vineyard, not at the winery. Sure, you hear that answer often, but when I saw the vineyard workers came back from their long day in the field as I exited the three and a half hour long tasting, I understood. Although they seem joyful and glad to be done with their daily work as the sun went down, these courageous people look like they had run a trail marathon! It is no easy task to work on the steep incline, but it pays off. Only selection massale is used in the vineyard so the best performing vines are used. These vigorous plants respond better to the terroir for example by avoiding over ripeness. The same cannot be said about the cloned vines largely used in the area by the majority of producers in the area.

At the winery, at least 80% of whole cluster is used. New oak is not used and Jean describes the winemaking as “simple”, what we know as “non-interventionist”.

The farming has been organic since 2004 although certified only nine years later.

The wines were incredible last night and as usual, I started writing tasting notes going through the deep vintage vertical. But after writing “wow!” “amazing!” “pure” or “deep” for most wines, I figured it was pointless to continue. Sometimes there is not much to say when you’re so close to perfection. One particularity about superior wines like those of Gonon is that they amaze me whether they are in their adolescent stage or with more bottle age. Their irresistible charm is consistent no matter the vintage or the age, a trait that I find is rarely seen.

My conservative notes below. Note: all the wines were double decanted two hours prior.

Domaine Pierre Gonon, Saint Joseph Les Oliviers Blanc  2019

Domaine Pierre Gonon, Saint Joseph Les Oliviers Blanc  2016

Les Oliviers is a tiny vineyard, not planted on granite. Mostly clay is seen there and Marsanne is king. The richer soil produces a generous wine with low acidity. The wine is fermented in oak and stays on its lees for a year with a few lees stirring the first months.

Domaine Pierre Gonon, Saint Joseph      2017

Excellent quality of fruit.

Domaine Pierre Gonon, Saint Joseph      2016

Amazing length and the brininess starts to show black olives.

Domaine Pierre Gonon, Saint Joseph      2015

Flamboyant! The exceptional quality of the vintage paired with the expert craft of Gonon is a marriage made in heaven.               

Domaine Pierre Gonon, Saint Joseph      2014

2014 is known for its « greenness » in Burgundy but also in the northern Rhône. There was a touch of that here at the opening but it magically disappeared after aeration. Although tannins could be felt. Patience should reward the taster.

Domaine Pierre Gonon, Saint Joseph      2013

A deep wine. incredible

Domaine Pierre Gonon, Saint Joseph      2012

2012 reminds Jean Gonon of a vintage of the past, with a lighter, elegant body. It was a rainy year that produced less ripeness and less concentrate wines. The tasting confirmed that with a wine that is a bit thinner, not a fault by any means.

Domaine Pierre Gonon, Saint Joseph      2011

Juicy and vibrant! I have one bottle left at home and I will surely be saving it for the right occasion!

Domaine Pierre Gonon, Saint Joseph      2010

The tannic structure felt tighter here. A bit more austere with some bitterness. Like the 2014, a few more years should polish off the hard edges.

Domaine Pierre Gonon, Saint Joseph      2009

The fruit is more exuberant and lovely. Saying it was my favorite doesn’t mean much in this lineup, but I REALLY liked it!

Domaine Pierre Gonon, Saint Joseph      2007

I was amazed by the youthfulness. It is delicious now and I feel confident it will continue to amaze the drinkers for decades to come

Pressoir.wine Dinner - Grands Crus of Joseph Drouhin Recap

Edouard Bourgeois
January 13, 2023

Joseph Drouhin is one of the most recognizable producers in Burgundy in terms of the size of their operation but also when it comes to producing fine wines from some of the best terroirs. From Chablis down to the Côte Chalonnaise, Drouhin has been producing a myriad of ninety different appellations for four generations. The house was founded in 1880 and has been acquiring vineyards in the most coveted areas while their negociant activity also allows them to buy grapes from long term contractors.

Joseph Drouhin is also synonymous with clean farming practices, as the domaine became organic in 1990 and biodynamic a few years later.

Last night’s dinner at Le Pavillon was sensational with a focus on four iconic Grands Crus from Drouhin. We kicked things off with a flight of Grands Echezeaux followed by Clos de Beze and Griotte Chambertin and crowned the event with the majestic Montrachet from Marquis de Laguiche. My recap below:

GRANDS-ECHEZEAUX 2013/2010/2005

Out of the nine ha of this large Grand Cru climat, Drouhin owns almost half an hectare. The geographic situation of Grands Echezeaux is quite exceptional and that didn’t go unnoticed by the monks of Citeaux who already owned the nearby Clos de Vougeot. Although they didn’t get to put their hands on vines in Musigny, when they acquire Grands Echezeaux, the motivation was to make a wine as fine as its prestigious neighbors. The three vintages we tasted showed really well. Starting with the complicated 2013, a vintage that brought cold, rainy weather with an episode of hail, 2013 forced vignerons to be cautious to sort out rotten grapes. Here, I thought the 2013 showed really well and didn’t lack maturity as I sometimes find in 2013. Although I could detect a touch of dried grapes on the nose. 2010 delivered a cleaner, delicious fruit quality with the concentration often associated with the vintage. Great bottle with necessary acidity to lift the wine. Drouhin used a generous portion of whole clusters that year, good call! 2005 behaved as expected, a powerful, high alcohol wine that in my opinion need more time to develop secondary aromas. I could feel some “heat” in the finish.

CLOS DE BEZE 2013/2010/2005

It was really interesting to repeat the same flight of vintages from a very different site. Clos de Beze is one of the oldest clos in Burgundy. Although the walls are now gone, the Clos de Beze was a very important plot for the monks of the Abbey of Beze, who became owners in 630 AD, until they lost ownership in 1219. This exceptional vineyard, due east and on a mild incline, covers fifteen ha and Drouhin only owns a mere 0.13 ha of it. So tasting three vintages side by side is quite a treat!

That was a brilliant flight, starting with a really pretty 2013 that had a juicy fruit character. 2010 may have produced low yields, this was a stunning wine. I really am a fan of the vintage in general and this bottle had the ripe cherry and almondy aromatics I crave in a red Burgundy along with ultra elegant tannins. Bravo! Once again, 2005 felt a touch too alcoholic for my taste but finesse is indisputable.

GRIOTTE CHAMBERTIN 2002/2000/1990

Joseph Drouhin is among the nine lucky owners of Griotte Chambertin, this tiny gem of a Grand Cru nestled just below the Clos de Beze. Drouhin’s plot is about half an hectare, out of the total 2.5 hectares of Griotte. The dry summer of 2002 was saved by needed rainfalls at the end of August. The results were balanced wines that seem to have everything in good proportions, between alcohol, sweetness and acidity, while tightly packed in a fine tannic structure. The Griotte 2002 was superb with noticeable acidity that suggests a long life ahead. 2000 Griotte Drouhin has been a favorite of mine for a while. The wine is highly seductive and dare I say “Chambollesque”. The small red fruit profile is irresistible. Finally 1990 performed highly. We decanted the bottle right before serving it, not so much for oxygen but to get rid of the good amount of sediments in the bottle. The tertiary aromas were delicious and the wine still pristine with hints of confit oranges and a delicate body.

MONTRACHET MARQUIS DE LAGUICHE 2014/2012/2010

Sitting almost equally on both villages of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, Montrachet is at the pinnacle of white Burgundy. Of the eighteen owners of this eight hectare grand cru climat, the Marquis de Laguiche family owns the largest plot, all in the Puligny-Montrachet side. Two hectares of glorious land in the Laguiche family since 1776. Joseph Drouhin started running the farming and making the wine from this plot in 1947 and continues to do so today. Along with Clos des Mouches or Griotte Chambertin, Montrachet Laguiche is an iconic wine at Drouhin.

2014 was powerful, a true Montrachet! The exuberance was matched by incredible minerality and a mind blowing length. Really impressive bottle. 2012 was another big hit. Pristine wine in a great spot. Some hints of coconut and again this powerful character with oily texture and mouthfeel. Delicious citrus jam quality. 2010 followed the same pattern. The harvest was a bit rushed by finnicky stormy weather conditions but the result is highly satisfying.

Finally, a special thank you to Eric Foster, our guest and Club Member, who generously shared his bottle of Montrachet Laguiche Drouhin from 1996. After having a few disappointing bottles from that tricky vintage, that bottle showed a healthy profile with no trace of oxidation. What a way to close the night!

Pressoir.wine dinner Domaine Arlaud Recap

by Edouard Bourgeois
December 15, 2022

Morey-Saint-Denis is located between Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south, two very prestigious appellations with no shortage of grands crus and legendary producers. That is the reason why often, Morey-Saint-Denis can easily be overlooked. However, the 700 inhabitant village does produce amazing wines and is also home to grand cru vineyards. Domaine Dujac may well be the leading producer of the appellation but Domaine Arlaud is the one to watch. Founded in 1942, Arlaud progressively became the pioneer in organic farming, now fully biodynamic, and the quality keeps going up with each new vintage. Cyprien Arlaud has worked at the domaine since 1998, fully in charge of winemaking in 2004 and officially took the reins in 2013 after his two siblings decided to leave the family business. 

We tasted twelve gorgeous wines at restaurant Benoit in a small committee and this is my recap:

1st flight

Domaine Arlaud, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er cru Les Blanchards 2017

Domaine Arlaud, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er cru aux Cheseaux 2015

Domaine Arlaud, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er cru Les Ruchots 2010

We kicked things off with an interesting overview of three premiers crus of Morey-Saint-Denis. Blanchard, named after the fact that white wines were once produced there is rich in limestone and silt while affected by the cool air from the Combe of Morey-Saint-Denis. This vineyard has been in the Arlaud family only since 2004 but the vines are old, averaging 70 years of age. We tasted 2017, a vintage full of bright acidity that made a wine reminiscent of red currant, a great way to start indeed.

The second wine was from the climat Chezeaux, located up north by Gevrey-Chambertin. There, the limestone is the Comblanchien type, almost chalky, immaculate and unbriken. It is often used in housing construction thanks to its strong density and in fact, Chezeaux is the old French name for “building”. The site is cooler with very little clay. Fun fact, part of the climat is ranked premier cru and part of it ranked as village level. 2015 was the vintage we tasted. The firmness of that year was felt on the nose, being quite closed but the palate showed more charm and a lovely tannic quality paired with fine-tuned acidity.

Lastly for this flight, the Ruchots 2010, served from a magnum offered a much rounder profile. If the older age helped here, the terroir was also allowed to shine through. Ruchot is located down south of the appellation, close to Chambolle-Musigny and one can find the sensual signature of Chambolle in this wine. The clay is in abundance there with lots of iron and the Arlaud’s plot is planted with 75-year-old vines.

2nd flight

Domaine Arlaud, Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2017

Domaine Arlaud, Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2010

Domaine Arlaud, Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2005

This was the only flight not from Morey-Saint-Denis. This grand cru from Gevrey-Chambertin has the particularity to be called either Charmes Chambertin or Mazoyeres Chambertin. Most producers choose the former as it is the case here with Arlaud. The one-hectare family vineyard has been part of the estate since the founding of the estate and panted by Cyprien’s grand father. The 80 year-old vines produce a deep and gorgeous wine while the youngest vines of the plot are vinified separately and used to produce the Gevrey-Chambertin village level. 2017 performed well considering its very young age. I hope I can taste this wine again in a decade. Fun fact for that vintage, Cyprien had to “green harvest” so the vine, after being seriously affected by frost the year prior didn’t over produce. 2010 really struck me and it may well have been my “wine of the night”. Gorgeous nose of ripe cherries and secondary aromas of forest floor. The palate was cheerful with some real power and a long finish. 2005 seemed more austere with a bit less vibrancy of fruit. The alcohol also felt a touch higher.

3rd flight

Domaine Arlaud, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2017

Domaine Arlaud, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2015

Domaine Arlaud, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2012

It may seem surprising to serve Clos de la Roche, typically the most powerful Grand Cru of Morey-Saint-Denis before the usually more delicate Clos-Saint Denis. However at Arlaud, the two styles are reversed and there is a clear effort to tame the big personality of Clos de la Roche by limiting the extraction of color and tannins. The family’s plot is located at the bottom of the appellation in the lieu dit of Les Mochamps. The vines are also a bit younger there (50 years old) in comparison to the rest of the holdings. Back to 2017, the nose was quite developed and the palate very pretty with hints of violet and really well balanced. 2015 was gorgeous and a great example of the potential of the vintage. Black fruit on the nose and earthy notes of truffle, it beautifully blossomed after opening for a while and multi layers unfolded. Lastly, 2012 is a wine that I didn’t fully understand. The nose suggested lavender while the palate was marked by a surprising grapefruit rind and a certain bitterness. The vintage was tough for many Burgundy producers. The erratic weather made rot sorting a crucial step of the winemaking process. The result is wines of unusual concentration.

4th flight

Domaine Arlaud, Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 2014

Domaine Arlaud, Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 2010

Domaine Arlaud, Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 1999

The impeccable massale selection of the family, started by Cyprien’s grandfather typically produces small grape bunches subject to millerandage, a natural phenomenon where the berries do not fully develop and remain small, increasing the ratio of skin over juice which leads to more structured  but also more complex wines. Located in the heart of the Morey-Saint-Denis appellation, Clos-Saint-Denis at Arlaud is the finest wine made and the quality is consistent year after year. Unfortunately, the family’s plot is only 0.17 hectare so the wines are very hard to find. 2014 opened the show and clearly announced its presence and a very different style than the previous Clos-Saint-Denis. Impressive and complex, I really enjoyed the juicy, sweet cherries and the volume. I was surprised to get that from a typically lighter vintage such as 2014. 2010 was my favorite of the flight, dark and brooding. Finally, we served the only wine not made by Cyprien, but by his father Hervé, a 1999 Clos-Saint-Denis. Being much older than the others immediately put this wine in a different category and from what I heard among the guests, it left a strongly positive impression. I really liked it too. The evolution showed interesting earthy aromatics, mushroom, and forest floor while the fruit did shine through with the presence of black currant.

Pressoir.wine Dinner Recap - Etienne Sauzet

by Edouard Bourgeois
Wednesday, November 30, 2022

It was great to use the charming private room of Gramercy Tavern for the first time

We have hosted several Champagne dinners, but it had been a long time since we put together a dinner entirely around white wine. In fact, the last time was at Marea in July of 2019 and I can still taste Preuses 1995… It was really nice to revisit white Burgundy exclusively through the superb wines of producer Etienne Sauzet. The Puligny-Montrachet estate started bottling under this name in the mid 1950’s and I have been lucky to follow the evolution of the style since the beginning of my career while working as a sommelier in Reims, Champagne. With the current fourth generation, led by the dynamic couple Emilie Boudot and Benoit Riffault since 2002, the farming has been converted to organic and fully biodynamic, starting in 2010. I was also really excited to focus on Puligny-Montrachet, a wine that is typically not really well represented on wine lists. If we can think of at least a dozen producers in the neighboring villages of Chassagne-Montrachet or Meursault, Puligny, smaller in size with just 235 hectares of vineyards, is led by just a handful of domaines. Etienne Sauzet is certainly one of them, among others such as Domaine Leflaive of course, the Carillons or Paul Pernot.

Puligny-Montrachet offers a great opportunity to understand the classic geological and topographical landscape of Burgundy. The vineyards are mostly facing east, some of them slightly turned towards the warm southern sun. The village wines are nicely tucked at the foot of the hill, producing generous wines while the Premiers Cru vineyards are all aligned mid-slope. Although small in size, Puligny proudly hosts no less than four Grands Crus, among them of course, Montrachet.

And did you know? There is an anecdotic production of red wine in the village. About 1% of the production assured by producers Jean Pascal or Jean Chartron and his Clos du Cailleret. When Dr. Lavalle wrote his book in 1855, quite a few of the famous vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet were producing reds, and these vineyards were therefore not included in Lavalle’s classification of the white terroirs.

This being said, Puligny is clearly a white wine village that distinguishes itself from its famous neighbors, Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault.

Below are my tasting notes from last night’s dinner:

1st flight: Puligny-Montrachet vertical – 2019/2018/2016

All wines were served out of Magnums!

2019: Impressively light on its feet, considering the warm temperatures of that vintage. I loved that wine, and this was a beautiful way to start. Lovely lemony notes coated with a generous mouthfeel that reminded me of a lemon custard and meringue tart.

2018: Although I found a bit less definition in this 2018, I appreciate how the vintage, here again, showed its colors. The confit orange gave an interesting accent, but the heat was present in the long finish.

2016: We are very grateful to have been able to pour this rare wine, especially from a magnum. 2016 was the year famous for a historical frost. The crop was extremely low and the vintage almost impossible to define as the little amount of wine made varied in quality across the Cote. This bottling remained fine and elegant with a touch of herbaceousness.

2nd flight: Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrieres 2016/2014/2012

“Perrières”, a famous terminology in Burgundy typically refers to stony soils

With this second flight, we went up the slope in vineyards characterized by a lower proportion of clay and marls while getting closer to the bedrock of limestone.

2016: Again here, 2016 showed a bit of a vegetal profile but I found it quite pleasant with notes of green tea leaves and a refreshing lactic, yogurt-like mouthfeel.

2014: Another complicated vintage marked by a rollercoaster of temperatures and intermittence of rain and sunshine. I typically really enjoy 2014 whites and was pleased with this Perrieres although I didn’t quite find the acidity I expected on the finish.

2012: The low volumes produced that year were blessed with fine quality. It should be noted first that this is a 10-year-old wine so the nature of the vintage alone doesn’t suffice to judge its performance. I found that age served it well, developing noble bergamot aromas with a beautifully integrated smoky touch. However, I was a bit distracted by a green touch reminiscent of asparagus.

3rd flight: Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes 2016/2014/2012

“Combettes” or little combes refers to the small valleys naturally carved through the Côte during Ice Age

Combettes usually tastes a little fleshier and more generous and when tasted at the winery, is poured after Perrieres. In fact, the two vineyards share a border, with Combettes up the slope, overlooking Les Referts and a direct neighbor of Meursault 1er cru Charmes.

2016: This was probably my favorite 2016 of the night with a well-managed creaminess that provided just enough texture without being ponderous. Interesting to think of the proximity of Meursault as a possible terroir influence.

2014: Superb wine. I was pleased to find the 2014 style I love. Energetic and zesty, the wine offered layers of delight.

2012: Back to a vegetal nose confirmed by this asparagus on the palate I had in the previous 2012. Not my favorite wine of the night but still a very pleasurable bottle that held proudly through almost a decade of bottle age.

4th flight: Montrachet Grand Cru 2011/2010/2009

The one and only Montrachet

Considered to be one of the most exquisite vineyards in the world, Montrachet is often described with superlatives. This twenty-acre Grand Cru, divided among sixteen owners, is always a show stopper. Note, Etienne Sauzet does not own plots in Montrachet and does purchase grapes. From who? That is an information no one could give me.

2011: It is easy to feel disarmed when the expectation is so high, and that is exactly what happened here. When I first tasted right after opening, I thought the wine was shy, an adjective I thought I would never use to describe the authoritative Montrachet. But patience paid off. After tasting it again with a few hours of oxidation, the complexity unveiled captivating aromas and the unmistakably long finish of Montrachet.

2010: The true show-stopper. Untamed, the explosive nature of this wine jumped out of the glass, lavish and opulent. But the real magic and uniqueness of Montrachet is its ability to be focused and balanced, despite its massive personality. Like other superior wines, the depth of aromas leaves the taster speechless and forced to close one’s eyes to taste this enchanting terroir.

2009: Tasting Montrachet is always a privilege, but being lucky to taste a vertical is a real treat. Comparing 2009 and 2010 was fascinating. If I did prefer 2010, I thought 2009 was magnificent. Sure, the alcohol felt higher and the power was at the forefront but again here, the strong terroir was instrumental in creating the necessary balance and profound aromatic complexity.   

No red wine? No problem!

Domaine de la Romanée Conti Dinner Recap

Edouard Bourgeois
October 25, 2022

No domaine better sums up the prestige of Burgundy than Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. The history of the estate is as thrilling and complex as the wines it has been producing to this day. DRC was officially founded in 1869 when its first director, Jacques-Marie Duvault Blochet, bought the vineyard of Romanée-Conti. More vineyards were purchased and added to the domaine’s holdings during the 19th and 20th century. Today, unlike many other prestigious domaines, DRC is a sizeable operation and the largest owner of each of the red wine Grands Crus it produces.

It was a real treat to open twelve different wines from the domaine at Gabriel Kreuther. The chef, whose passion for wine is truly inspiring (he explained to me he started collecting wine at age 14 after his uncle gave him a taste of Hospices de Beaune 1959) prepared a glorious menu to match the incredible wines.

1st flight: Romanée Saint Vivant 1991/2001

DRC owns 5.29 ha out of the total 9.44 ha of the appellation Romanée Saint Vivant.

The vineyard of RSV was acquired fully by DRC in 1988 after being farmed by the domaine since 1966. Known for its generous layer of clay, around 3 feet thick, and flat surface, the wines made there often provide a seductive bouquet of fruits. The 1991 was unfortunately a tad oxidized and didn’t show its full potential but the 2001 delivered what one would expect from the appellation. I thought the whole cluster aromatic signature was quite pronounced, and to my liking.

2nd flight: Richebourg 1999/2001

DRC owns 3,5 ha out of the total 8 ha of the appellation of Richebourg.

Described as the “body guard” for the other appellations by Aubert de Villaine himself, Richebourg is indeed a wide shouldered, authoritative wine. Replanted after the phylloxera crisis with cuttings from the prestigious vineyard of Romanée-Conti, Richebourg is not all about muscles of course. 2001, a cold year that produced small berries “millerandée” made concentrated wine with deep color. The Richebourg 2001 seemed still in its adolescent years and can use many more years to fully express its potential. Let’s try again in the 2030’s… The 1999 delivered more fruit but certainly embraced its reputation of being a bold wine.  

3rd flight: La Tâche 1991/2000

DRC owns the entirety of the appellation: 6,06 ha.

Today a monopole of DRC, the complex ownership history of La Tâche is full of twists and turns. The appellation is divided into several plots that were gradually acquired by DRC, the most important being “Les Gaudichots”, purchased by Jacques-Marie Duvault Blochet in the 1860’s. A major turn in the history of the vineyard was the acquisition, in 1933 of the missing plot, owned by the Liger-Belair family since 1833.

Although La Tâche is often considered the second best wine at DRC, after the obvious Romanée-Conti, and the price of each wine reflects that hierarchy, La Tâche often performs better than Romanée-Conti, being more flamboyant and impressive. La Tâche 2000 expressed this bursting personality perfectly. This was probably the wine of the night. I can think of a dozen adjectives to describe my experience tasting this wine. Perfect and sumptuous probably are the most accurate I can think of. The length of the wine was among the longest I have ever experienced in a wine.

In comparison, the 1991 was a bit more discreet - nonetheless it was grandiose and pure.

4th flight: Horizontal of 1990: Romanée Saint Vivant, La Tâche, Grands Echezeaux and Richebourg

Romanée Saint-Vivant 1990 was my favorite of the flight. Seductive bouquet so characteristic of the appellation and with over a decade of age, developed wide range of captivating aromas.

La Tâche 1990 commanded very high expectations but the wine turned out to be a bit shy. I haven’t had a chance to taste it after it opened up.

Grands Echezeaux 1990 had a deliciously sweet core and personality that almost reminded me of a Musigny.

Richebourg 1990 was superb. Once again a touch vegetal from the use of whole cluster but with pitch perfect balance and irresistible aromas of flowers and succulent ripe red fruits.

5th flight: Montrachet 2003/1979

DRC owns 0,67 ha out of the total 8 ha of the appellation. The Montrachet Grand Cru is arguably the most prestigious and valuable vineyard for white Burgundy. What is quite uncommon is its location, almost equally divided between the two neighbor communes of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. DRC is the 5th largest owner in Montrachet with three different plots, all in Chassagne-Montrachet, with one touching the Puligny-Montrachet border. The different plots were planted in the early 1960’s and 1980. DRC is famous for picking its Chardonnay in Montrachet rather late. In the very unique 2003 vintage, marked by historic heatwaves, I was surprised with the intense freshness of the wine. I would typically expect the jammy, cooked fruit aromas often associated with the vintage but not here. Sure, the wine was massive and abundant with volume but the length and intense minerality confirmed the exquisite nature of the terroir of Montrachet. This bottle wowed everyone around the table.

Unfortunately, the 1979 was marked by a hint of TCA. Despite that cork taint that altered the experience, one could “see” the beauty and complexity of what should have been a decadent bottle.

Dinner recap: Châteauneuf du Pape

Edouard Bourgeois
September 30, 2022

Châteauneuf du Pape, « the new pope’s castle » is not a shy wine, to say the least. The Grenache that typically composes the base of the blend receives enough sunlight and heat to ripen every year gloriously, producing wines with big personalities. Of course, Châteauneuf is regarded as a high alcohol wine and that is certainly true, but as always it is the balance that matters, and it is ok to reach 15 +% alcohol by volume as long as the other elements are there to define an harmonious picture. I find that bottle age can have an essential impact on the balance of the wine, as our dinner at Houseman proved last Thursday.

We kicked things off with a surprising flight of white Châteauneuf du Pape. Only about 7% of the Châteauneuf production is white, which explains why this category is often unknown to the consumers. Clairette here is the star of the show. At Domaine Saint Prefert, the Cuvée Spéciale Vieilles Clairettes pays homage to this grape variety magnificently with a wine reminiscent of honey and profound minerality. The domaine, organic since 2003, uses very old vines of Clairette for that cuvée, some plants in their hundred years of age. We also tasted Chateau La Nerthe white Châteauneuf, this time a blend of Clairette and the more aromatic Roussanne. The beautiful property ferments its wines in large oak vessels while aging takes place in stainless steel in order to keep a clean character. Finally for this flight of whites, we poured Domaine de Cristia and Domaine de la Solitude. Cristia, founded in 1942, shared similar qualities and blend of varieties than La Nerthe while Domaine de la Solitude, fermented and aged in barrels, showed a bit more power. Grenache Blanc represented a good quarter of the blend also in that one.

We then went back to Saint Prefert with a flight of three reds from the two top cuvées produced at the estate. A beautiful comparison of 2019 and 2015 Cuvee Charles Giraud showed what young Châteauneuf can do as far as exuberance and power. The Cuvee Giraud uses the oldest vines of the estate, planted on two different sites, one composed of sand, in a lieu dit named Cristia, and the other covered with the famous pebbles in “les Serres”. Whole cluster is used for the fermentation for the Cuvee Giraud. The other wine from Saint Prefert, the Reserve Auguste Favier, is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Cinsault with a pinch of Syrah, aged in demi-muids. This was a 2010 and proved my initial point that age can make wonders in Châteauneuf. It should be noted that 2010 in the region is considered exceptional, but the decade old bottle showed more refinement and delicious confiture aromas than its younger siblings from 2015 and 2019.

Moving on, the third flight was dedicated to one of the most classic producers in the region, Domaine de Pegau. I really like these wines where all thirteen grape varieties allowed are used in the blend. Fermentation in concrete is also a feature I like, making the wine a touch lighter and very elegant. The aging in 50 hectoliter oak foudres for two years only adds to the beauty. We tasted Pegau’s Cuvee Reservée 2019 and 2010 side by side. Not surprisingly again here, the young one was marked by alcohol while the 2010 was among my favorite wines of the night, explosive with a bouquet of garrigue and other “herbes de Provence”. To close that flight, we opened two “Cuvee Laurence”, named after the daughter, currently in charge of the domaine and aged for 4 years instead of 2 for the Cuvee Reservee we just reviewed. “Laurence 2017” surprised me with its fresh acidity, a feature I don’t find myself mentioning when talking about Châteauneuf. The 2013, served from a magnum, was good but not excellent. I had a magnum of the exact same wine a month prior, and it showed a tad more freshness. Nevertheless, 2013, a vintage known for its early drinking ability was in a good spot before its decade old birthday.

We closed the dinner with three gorgeous magnums. First, a Vieux Donjon 2015 made with very old vines , following the traditional GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) base and considered very traditional in the region, making only one wine, blending all their parcels together rather than bottling them separately. The second mag, a Domaine de la Janasse 2006, seemed so hot that I could barely taste it. I found the wine to be tannic and massively alcoholic. I generally enjoy the wines of Janasse, a large 90 hectare domaine founded in 1973. Fortunately, we finished on a very high note with a magnum of Chateau la Nerthe Cuvée des Cadettes 1998. Of course, the age distinguished this wine among the others, but I was so enamored with the level of distinction and class in this Châteauneuf. Made from 85 to 100 year old vines planted on sandy-clay soils, it was almost Burgundian with refined tannins that made me think of Barolo and an impressively long finish.

Recap - Champagne and Pizza Dinner

August 25, 2022
Edouard Bourgeois

Champagne is very adaptable when it comes to pairing with food. The naturally high acidity revives the palate and the fruity quality may provide enough power to match with hearty dishes. 

I’ve always thought that there is a true love affair between the cold bubbles and the crispy dough and tomato sauce of the world’s favorite food, pizza.  

I believe that last night’s dinner at Marta proved me right! Here is a recap of my impressions on the different cuvées.

We kicked things off with Lenoble Brut Nature, a champagne that received no dosage at all before bottling. It delivered exactly as expected with crispness and good balance of fruit (75% of Pinots, both Meunier and Noir and the rest being Chardonnay) but somehow flew under the radar a bit, maybe because it was the first wine. This first flight was completed with three Blanc de Blancs, by definition champagne made only with Chardonnay. First, the non-vintage from Henriot, served from a magnum. This is made very traditionally in a way that the complex blend of its dozen crus varies slightly according to the base vintage in order to maintain a “house style” year after year. The third champagne was from A. Margaine, a Blanc de Blancs from the celebrated 2008 vintage. Although this producer is surrounded by Pinot Noir because of its location on the Montagne de Reims, its specialty is in fact Chardonnay. Margaine uses a specific clone of over 30 year-old Chardonnay vines that does really well in their village of Villers-Marmery. No malolactic fermentation here to preserve a certain freshness. We closed the first flight with a zippy magnum of Valentin Leflaive Blanc de Blancs, Mesnil sur Oger, non vintage. With strong roots in the Cote d’Or, the Leflaive family approaches their champagne winemaking the same way they do in Burgundy, focusing on site specific cuvées. Here, this bottling showed a classic expression of one of the most respected villages of the Côte des Blancs, famous for its immaculate white chalk, Mesnil-sur-Oger.

The second flight entered the scene with a boom. Complete change of décor with four vinous, deep champagnes where Pinot Noir was the star of the show. First, a gorgeous bottle of Philipponnat Royale Reserve. It should be mentioned that this is the “entry level” cuvée of the house yet in my opinion, it displays the quality of a top champagne. The blend of 65% of Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and a sprinkle of Pinot Meunier makes for a solid wine, proudly exhibiting the style of Mareuil-sur-Ay. Note, 30% of reserve wines, aged in a solera system, are certainly responsible for the depth of this excellent champagne. The second wine in this flight was served from magnum and one of the many show-stoppers of the night. The majestic Cuvée Louis from Tarlant imposed itself, showing vinosity and savory notes from its age, being from two harvests, 1999 and 2000. Perfectly crafted blend of equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the first Cuvée Louis was created in 1982 and is always fermented in Burgundy barrels. No Malolactic fermentation and no dosage. This magnum reminded everyone that champagne is indeed wine. We continued with another magnum of producer Paul Bara, located in one of the most celebrated Pinot Noir villages of the Montagne de Reims, Bouzy. Fermented in stainless steel, this Pinot specialist works with over 30 year old vines and only uses the first and most pure juice that comes out of the press, also known as “the cuvée”. And finally, a true Blanc de Noirs by the great Eric Rodez. This bottling, Empreinte Noire 2009, is a focus of four sites, all within Ambonnay. Eric likes to identify this wine philosophically as an “anti-champagne”. What it means by that is that champagne has a history of blending grapes, sites and vintages but here, he only uses one year, one grape and one village. Again, here the oak plays a great role in winemaking, providing structure and volume and this wine was the favorite of many attendees.

While the irresistible scent of pizza filled the room, we moved on to the last flight, starting with a voluptuous bottle from Fred Savart, cuvée “l’Année” from 2011. Despite the complicated nature of the vintage, the wine’s bouquet of ripe red fruits and juiciness was quite impressive, I found. The blend, 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, didn’t go through malolactic fermentation, was aged in large oak barrels, one of Savart’s signature move, and only received 3 grams of sugar/liter at bottling. Great performance. We followed with Pol Roger’s prestige cuvée, the inimitable “Sir Winston Churchill”. Named after the famous prime minister, known for his hedonism and wit, this champagne perfectly matched the quote Sir Churchill would use: “My tastes are simple, I’m easily satisfied with the best.” Crafted only using Grand Crus Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes across the Marne, riddled by hand in the deeper part of the Pol Roger cellars at 33 meters deep, this champagne is a classic. From the gorgeous 1999 vintage, it was full of savory notes, complex spices and a touch of smoky, toasted quality attributed to the long aging. Another prestige cuvée from one of the most recognizable names, Veuve Clicquot, “La Grande Dame” was served next, from the 2004 vintage. A beautiful bottle also made using eight Grands Crus in the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs.

We closed this champagne celebration with Delamotte’s newest addition, a delicate, lacy Brut Rosé. Vinified using a expertly managed maceration of Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, Bouzy and Tours-sur-Marne, this wine was succulent and could make you forget that Delamotte, sibling of Champagne Salon, is known to be a Chardonnay specialist!

Recap - Chartogne-Taillet Dinner

Edouard Bourgeois
July 14, 2022

Shortly after he took over the family business at age 23, Alexandre Chartogne became one of the elite Champagne growers, focusing on single vineyard cuvées that reflect terroirs with outstanding accuracy. After he interned at famed Domaine Jacques Selosse, then under the guidance of grand master Anselme, he embraced the complex (to say the least) philosophy of this guru who naturally became his mentor. Testing various vessels from concrete eggs to used barrels from his friends in Burgundy, Alexandre makes it a point to work in the most traditional way possible. While he doesn’t care about an organic certification, his farming is recognized as a model of environmental awareness and understanding of the terroir.

Merfy, the small village where he and his ancestors have been growing vines since the late 15th century, is not the most famous. Yet thanks to Chartogne’s hard labor, this commune in the Northern Montagne de Reims has been revealed through his single cuvées that savvy sommeliers around the world strive to adorn their cherished wine list with.

The expertly prepared cuisine of Momofuku Ko paired magically with these fine Champagnes.

Here are my notes:

Opening with a glass of “Heurtebise” for the “welcome glass”, this cuvée, made entirely from Chardonnay from the 2016 harvest, delivered exquisite freshness.

Festivities continued with a flight of two vintages of the blended cuvée “Sainte-Anne”. 2014 offered mouth-watering acidity with irresistible shortbread and pastry aromatics, while the 2010 vintage, served out of a magnum, seemed creamier and extremely refined. We closed that flight with “Saint-Thierry” 2016, a blanc de noirs loaded with red fruit and spices.

We moved on to the second flight with two Pinot Meunier cuvées from the sandy site of “Beaux-Sens” from 2011 and 2013. Note that this cuvée was only produced in these two vintages and also 2014. Hazelnut was the unanimously chosen flavor profile to describe these two wines. I did find that the 2011 expectedly showed the vegetal character of that difficult vintage, with notes of green asparagus. The 2013 appeared much sweeter. Two other wines were poured in parallel: “Couarres” 2017 and 2010. While the young and solar 2017 exploded with energy and panache, the 2010 revealed a hint of oxidation, tertiary aromas reminiscent of mushroom and forest floor. “Couarres” is a rich clay site planted with a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The final proportion in the wine depends on the vintage but tends to be equal parts.

Ko’s must-have fried chicken was partnered with a vertical of “Orizeaux”. This pure Pinot Noir cuvée is truly magical. Planted in 1970 on a mount that is both exposed south and north tends to produce an atypically rich wine for the village. Alexandre talks at length about the importance of working with old vines so they can dig deep to reach the chalk. In his words, the plant needs at least 15 year of age to go through the thick top layer of sand and extract the complex DNA of the terroir. “Orizeaux” 2016 was gorgeous, once again bursting with small red fruit aromas. 2012 was marked by a firm acidity and I was happily surprised with the 2011. Its complex minerality made me forget the quite unpleasant green notes the vintage often gives. Great job!

Finally, we ended on a high note with the last three wines. The oldest cuvée of the night, also the only one Alexandre Chartogne didn’t make (he was 13 years old then) was a 1996 vintage. Despite my research, I couldn’t find any information on this wine. I found it to be quite flashy and with a strong personality but quickly fading. It was not the wine of the night for anyone but certainly an interesting comparison of style. The wine of the night may have been the superb “Les Barres” 2015 which in my notes received the three-letter adjective “wow”. The ungrafted Pinot Noir from that site was planted in 1952 and clearly had the shoulders to match the juicy strip loin we served with it. It had notes of earl grey and almost a red Burgundy quality to it. Truly memorable. Finally, we went back to Orizeaux with the 2010 vintage. It appeared much fresher than the “Couarres” from the same year, served earlier that night. Although made entirely from Pinot Noir, I found aromatic descriptors I would usually attribute to a white wine such as “tarte au citron meringuée”, a shortened pastry base filled with lemon curd and topped with meringue. The acidity was piercing through a delicious, sweet core of exotic fruit.

Recap Dinner Volnay - Pommard

by Edouard Bourgeois
June 8, 2022

So, is Volnay indeed a lighter version of its neighbor Pommard, known for its rustic edges and powerful structure?

Tuesday’s dinner at Winner may have provided some answer to that question. Ultimately, defining each village’s wine style in broad strokes seems pointless. It is no secret that each commune offers a wide diversity of styles depending on their specific climat, winemaking apart.

A special kudos to Chef Daniel Eddy who once again prepared an impeccable menu, featuring his signature roasted chicken and one of the best bread in New York.

Below are my tasting notes:

1st course

Domaine Clos de la Chapelle Volnay 1er Cru En Carelle 2018

Created 150 years ago, the domaine has been recently purchased by American Burgundy lover Mark O’Connell. “En Carelle” is in fact in the climat “Carelle sous la Chapelle” which, as the name indicates is located right below the 16th century chapel. Carelle was already designated “Tete de Cuvée”, the highest classification by Dr. Jules Lavalle in 1855. In a recent exchange with Mark, he explained to me that he preferred to change the label to “En Carelle” instead of Carelle sous la Chapelle” to avoid confusion with their flagship cuvee “Clos de la Chapelle”.

The wine provided an excellent start for the dinner, with fresh aromas of small, concentrated black fruits, certainly a signature of the heatwave from the 2018 summer.

Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d’Or 2018

Great showing here. The illustrious domaine that was once part of Domaine de la Romanée Conti and Clos de Tart became an icon when in the hands of winemaker Gerard Potel. It was eventually acquired by the Landanger family in 1996 who converted the winery into a state-of-the-art facility with modern, gravity fed equipment. I found the wines from this new era to become a bit too polished for my taste, with sometimes a lack of “rusticity”. But this bottle made me (and all the guests I spoke to at dinner) very happy. A bit shy at the opening, it developed great depth and an intricate multi layered profile. A beauty.

Domaine Clos de la Chapelle Pommard 1er Cru Les Grands Epenots 2018

Back to the first producer featured here, and entering Pommard with the famous “Grands Epenots” climat, located on the northern portion of the Pommard vineyards, closer to Beaune. If there is no Grand Cru in Pommard (and in Volnay in fact) “Grands Epenots” has been in serious consideration to be elevated to that rank. The wine felt much more youthful than the first two - promise for graceful and long aging. Aeration helped but more time will be needed to tame its strong personality and let the fruit express itself more. The alcohol can be felt here.

Domaine de la Vougeraie Pommard Les Petits Noizons 2018

Created in 1999, the empire of Domaine de la Vougeraie, owned by the Boisset family, covers top vineyards. This village level “Petit Noizon”, located rather high on the slope, enjoys a southern exposure and overlooks the Premiers Crus of Pommard’s northern section. It seems that the village level ranking of this wine was felt, providing a bit less length and density than the other wines thus far. A bit thin in my opinion but a sound bottle.

2nd course

Domaine Rougeot Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Santenots 2017

This organic producer is an advocate of whole cluster winemaking. The bottle showed a touch of volatile acidity that seemed to linger, even after aeration. Outside of that distraction, this Volnay was elegant and pure, with high notes of fresh fruit. Quite surprising for a “Santenots”, a unique climat effectively located in Meursault, but allowed to register as Volnay when planted with Pinot Noir. Typically the Volnay Santenots is a much denser wine, quite the opposite of what one might expect of the delicate reputation of Volnay wines,

Domaine Yvon Clerget Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens 2017

For these Pressoir dinners, I usually start by opening most if not all the wines right before starting the dinner (depending on the age of the wines presented). For this Volnay-Pommard event, I opened all the bottles at around 6pm. First, I just smell each one without tasting them, which I do later in the evening. When I put my nose on this “Rugiens”, it was the most expressive wine. The palate later confirmed the strong personality of this excellent climat. To those who think of Pommard for its flesh and grandiose stature, this is the perfect example. The iron rich clay soils of “Rugiens”, perched over 300 meters on the hill, give this bloody aromatic characteristic to the wine. One of the wines of the night for sure.

3rd course

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Chevret 2011

This wine reminded me once again that “Nico” Rossignol does very well in cool vintages. 2011 was far from easy. The rot pressure in the vineyard forced producers to meticulously sort the harvest. If the signature green notes of the vintage could be felt at first, they quickly vanish to let the fruit shine and deliver a very pretty wine. Located right under the magnificent “Cailleret” climat, “Chevret” is usually a delicate wine.

Domaine Pierre Morey Pommard 1er Cru Les Grands Epenots 2011

Pierre Morey, and now his daughter Anne, are certainly known for their superior white wines, but this Pommard was excellent. Biodynamic and fully destemmed, this wine also dodged the unappealing vegetal notes one expects from the vintage. A bit more earthiness in this “Grands Epenots” compared to the one from Domaine Clos de La Chapelle tasted earlier.

Benjamin Leroux Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Cave des Ducs 2010

Ben Leroux’s ability to make really fine wines, even from modest appellations and in both colors makes him quite a prodigy. The young man runs a 28-hectare operation, 8 of which are vineyards he owns, the rest being purchased from trusted growers.  The Clos de la Cave des Ducs is located just outside of the village of Volnay and often seem overlooked. A bit shy at first, the wine quickly gained some weight and confidence. Excellent mouthfeel, full and rounded with juicy, sweet cherry.

Nicolas Rossignol Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers 2010

Nico Rossignol likes to show that Pommard can be elegant and not necessarily this powerhouse tasters may expect. Note: the climat “Fremiers” has the particularity of being in both Pommard and Volnay. In the latter, it is spelled “Fremiets”. This was a great showing with plenty of violet aromas and earthiness.

4th course

Bouchard Pere Fils Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 1999

I always like to finish these dinners on a high note and this wine really put a smile on everyone’s face. “Cailleret” is a magnificent site and among the best Premiers Crus of Volnay, perfectly located mid-slope, with many small rocks that add a lift of minerality to the wine. Once owned by the Carnot family, this plot, right below the “Clos des 60 Ouvrées”, was the first acquisition of Domaine Bouchard in 1775. The beautiful secondary notes here were truly delectable. Unlike some of the younger wines of the previous flights, this Volnay was in full bloom, exploding with violet, truffle and juicy small red berries. Great bottle.

Domaine de Montille Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles 1999

The heavyweight champion of the night. 1999 is a superb vintage all along the Cote d’Or but it performed particularly well in the Cote de Beaune, where a bit less rain fell. Sometimes compared to 2017 because of the generous quantity produced, 1999 is marked by a little more concentration which today is rewarding those who waited to open their bottles. Once again here, just like with the “Rugiens”, this “Pezerolles” had an iron rich aromatic profile and the power of the wine stretched its wings in a lingering finish.

Top Vintages of Burgundy Dinner at Momofuku Ko

by Edouard Bourgeois

May 20, 2022

What a thrilling opportunity to be able to pick your favorite Burgundy vintages and compile them to match a Korean inspired menu. Last night proved to be successful and even if some wine pairings may have seemed daring, they were unanimously well received. Caviar and red Burgundy anyone?

We started off with a flight celebrating the clean and bright 2017 white  Burgundies. Burgundy was blessed with the 2017 harvest, especially for Chardonnay that flourished and gave a rather abundant harvest. Vignerons’ smiles grew even bigger the following year with even higher yields. It should be noted also that if low yields are typically synonymous with high quality for red wines, Chardonnay tends to produce better wines when yields are generous. A slight dilution won’t necessary hurt and might even preserve some freshness, especially in this new era of warmer years.

2017 flight of whites

Bouchard Père Fils Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru 2017

Quite a way to kick things off! Powerful Grand Cru with still many years of graceful aging ahead. I even found the oak to be still pretty loud. But what a long finish. Note: This noble Grand Cru appellation is divided into four different terraces and Bouchard is lucky to own plots in each one of them, making for a great representation of this site in Puligny-Montrachet, adjacent to the ruler, Montrachet.

Domaine Ballot Millot Les Bouchères Meursault Premier Cru 2017

Absolutely superb bottle. Perfect balance and depth. Impressive and always a good reminder that I should drink more Ballot Millot. Is the producer still under the radar?

Domaine Génot Boulanger Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 2017

Once again, Guillaume and Aude Lavollée delivered a pristine wine from this ultra-elegant Puligny. Exactly what one wishes a Folatières should taste like. Finesse all the way with discreet but solid minerality.

Time for the reds, and one of Ko’s signature dishes, a runny egg generously paired with Ossetra Caviar. Why did it work? The salinity of the caviar was a great match for the savory, mineral quality of these slightly “bloody-ironed” reds. Great experience.

2015 is one of these vintages that demanded patience but those who waited are now rewarded with great drinking pleasure. The reds did particularly well, and most professionals agree on the exceptional status of this vintage. Ideal growing conditions shaped this beautiful harvest, and most producers recall picking some of the most pristine fruits under the sun. And yes, the sun and the heat were certainly present during the growing season, but rain appeared just when needed. It should also be noted that no heat waves were recorded.

2015 Volnay flight

Domaine Clerget Carelle sous la Chapelle Volnay Premier Cru 2015

My kind of 2015. Savory and snappy with fine grained tannins and a dark fruit finish. Like a Volnay with a Gevrey accent. As the name indicates, Carelle sous la Chapelle is located just under the pretty Chapel but also just below the iconic Bousse d’Or made famous by Gérard Potel.

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Chevret 2015

Here, Nico made a surprisingly high-toned wine from a vintage I wouldn’t particularly describe for its firm acidity. A good refresher before moving on to the Santenots…

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu 2015

Dominique Lafon’s pride for his 3.78 ha plot of Santenots where he insists is “du Milieu” is always palpable when you ask him about it. This unique climat is located in Meursault, yet it is allowed to be classified as Volnay when planted with Pinot Noir. The rich clay here typically brings a generous and powerful profile to its wines. I have a bottle of that wine in my cellar and last night was a reminder that I should wait for my three year old to be of age so I can drink it with him. Ten years from now seems right.

2009 Grands Crus

The mysterious rule of the 9’s where it seems that vintages ending in 9 are exceptional in Burgundy applied again with the 2009 vintage. A solar year for sure meant that some wines suffered from a lack of acidity, affecting the balance. But overall, the wines are plush, flamboyant and built on a solid tannic structure that will give them great aging potential.

Domaine de la Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2009 MAGNUM

I found a green note to be distracting, with a touch of astringence I can’t quite explain. Domaine de la Vougeraie owns two plots in this famous 50 ha Grand Cru, one by the road and the other by the Chateau de Clos Vougeot.

Domaine Faiveley Echezeaux Grand Cru 2009

I had high expectations here but I found the wine to be a bit reductive, with that typical matchstick aroma. Oxygen was needed to help the fruit come alive from behind the curtain.

Domaine Gerard Julien Fils Echezeaux Grand Cru 2009

I’m still learning from this domaine which has given me an image of making pretty rustic wines, reminding me of Alain Burguet’s in a way. However, that Echezeaux was rather pretty and I am guessing the warm, rich tones of the vintage probably helped wrapping the harsh earthy notes with a sweet layer of ripe fruit.

2005 Gevrey-Chambertin

It’s difficult to find anything wrong with 2005. Power and freshness go hand in hand to offer near perfect balance. While the weather offered beautiful sunshine for the pickers, an unfortunate episode of hail randomly reduced yields, sometimes dramatically such as in Chassagne-Montrachet, but also in Chambolle-Musigny where a storm bursted on May 1st.

Luckily, the village of Gevrey-Chambertin was saved from harsh conditions and the wines are sometimes described as “athletic”.

Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey Chambertin Clos du Fonteny Monopole Premier Cru 2005 MAGNUM

At the foot of the celebrated Clos-Saint-Jacques, the Clos du Fonteny is entirely owned by well-established Domaine Bruno Clair (who also own a sizeable parcel of Clos Saint Jacques). It should be noted that this was served out of a magnum, which as we know ages slower than a 750 ml bottle. Pulling the cork felt like waking someone up from a sweet dream. With one eye closed, this Gevrey was not completely awake and it took some swirling to shake off some volatile acidity and express its grandeur. It even appeared to be a bit thin at first. An adjective I would not have imagined I would use for this wine.

Joseph Drouhin Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2005

Massive showing here. One of the oldest Clos, Clos de Beze is typically quite authoritative, as Cyrielle Rousseau likes to describe it. Once again here, oxygen was a good ally and alcohol seemed pretty high.

Louis Jadot Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques Premier Cru 2005

The ongoing argument of Clos-Saint-Jacques deserving the Grand Cru status was once again justified with this excellent bottling from Jadot, one of the 5 owners, whose plot runs from the top to the bottom of the vineyard, and located in the very middle of the Clos. Incredible length marrying rich, noble fruit with mineral undertones. Delightful way to end the dinner.

Recap: Dinner featuring the wines of Domaine Michel Lafarge @ Anton's

by Edouard Bourgeois
Friday, April 15, 2022

Everyone gathered last night at the charming neighborhood restaurant Anton’s in Greenwich Village to indulge in creamy Cacio e Pepe and perfectly roasted heritage chicken, but the star of the show at the table was certainly in the glass of our happy guests.

Twelve wines from Domaine Michel Lafarge were poured, all Volnay except for one Beaune from the Clos des Aigrots, drinking excellently by the way from the 2017 harvest.

In addition to this Beaune, the first flight included a very interesting comparison of two renowned Volnay Climats, Clos des Chenes 2017 and Clos du Chateau des Ducs 2018. Although only one year apart, the two wines were quite different and expressed the expected bright fruit from 2017 while the richer vintage of 2018, combined with the warmer site and rich soil of Clos du Chateau des Ducs, showed more weight and an almost authoritative personality.

If on paper the second flight may not have seemed to be the most exciting, all twelve guests and I ended up being very pleasantly surprised with the so-called “vegetal” 2011 vintage. Both the Volnay Vendanges Selectionnées, a wine sourced from different parcels including Les Mitans, and the Caillerets 2011 displayed great class and elegance. The greenish, stemmy character of the vintage seemed to be more present in the Cailleret but the finish was quite beautiful. I noted a touch of volatile acidity in the Volnay Vendanges Selectionnées, a trait that I find neither rare or disturbing in the Lafarge wines. And finally, 2012 Cailleret. In 2020, a portion of it got replanted in an intriguing spiral shape after an idea from Frederic Lafarge. Today, his daughter Clothilde, who represents the 9th generation at the estate, runs the operations and particularly enjoys ploughing this unique site with her beloved horse named “Quille”. Cailleret 2012 was a bit shy on the nose and the palate a bit tight. Some more time is needed for this vintage that I have always found quite heterogeneous among producers and therefore difficult to qualify overall.

The third flight really brought a smile upon everyone’s faces. This highly anticipated 2002 horizontal of Cailleret, Clos du Chateau des Ducs and Clos des Chenes, was admirable. Once again, I found the Clos du Chateau des Ducs to be a touch raisiny and stewy. A characteristic that did soften up a bit with oxygen though. I also understand that the chicken proved to be the ideal companion for that flight. Although a touch of volatile acidity was felt, I really enjoyed the damp, earthy notes of the Caillerets which paired well with the morels. My favorite performer was certainly the Clos des Chenes where I found the balance to be nearly perfect. Just enough flesh and volume while the crunchy cherry-like fruit made you beg for more.

I am pretty sure everyone could hear the imaginary drum roll that preceded the last flight: a 1990 duo of Clos des Chenes and Clos du Chateau des Ducs followed by the grand finale: a pristine bottle of 1980 Clos des Chenes, hands down the wine of the night. The same cooked fruit, jammy prune profile showed in the Clos du Chateau des Ducs. But once again, it was not so much “in the way”of the wine. Once again, I really thought the Clos des Chenes won the medal. Reading my notes from last night, this is what words came rushing down my pen: Incredible, pure, very long, majestic. Yep, I really liked that wine!

Nothing makes me happier than finishing a wine dinner with the wine of the night. If this is certainly a goal, it is also quite ambitious since typically the older wine is supposed to be the most memorable, it can also easily be faded or too old. This was certainly not the case last night. Another large vintage of very variable quality as magazine “Decanter” qualifies it, 1980 is easily overlooked. I was lucky enough to taste several amazing red burgundies from that vintage that also happened to be Raj’s birthyear, hence my multiple, lucky opportunities to taste it.