What's Pressoir Cooking?
Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb AND Traditional Provencal Ratatouille
Recipes largely inspired by Serious Eats
Edouard Bourgeois
August 17, 2021
Love it or hate it, lamb meat certainly polarizes meat eaters with its particular flavor that some consider too gamey, or “lamby”. I love lamb and this preparation is a recipe I learned while in culinary school back in the early 2000’s.
The idea simply consists of making a crust that will gently infuse through the meat while roasting in the oven or grilled in a covered barbecue. That crust is easy to make and is a mix of bread crumbs, butter, herbs, mustard, salt and pepper. It takes a few tries to master the perfect ratio between the butter and the breadcrumbs so the crust is neither too dry nor too fatty but the result is delicious.
I like to make a simple garnish that is vegetable based, with bright flavors of summer to contrast the rich meat preparation. For that, nothing is more appropriate than the classic ratatouille.
FOR THE LAMB:
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh mint
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon salt, divided
1 teaspoon black pepper, divided
1 stick butter, room temperature
2 frenched 7-10 rib racks of lamb, trimmed of all but a thin layer of fat, about 1.5 - 2 pounds each
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
DIRECTIONS:
Mix the bread crumbs, parsley, mint, rosemary, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and soft butter (not melted) together in a small bowl until homogeneous.
Spread that paste between 2 sheets of baking paper to form a crust 1/4 inch thick.
Store it in the freezer, still with the baking paper overnight. The next day, take out the crust, now solidified and cut out a piece that match the shape of the lamb rack
Let the lamb come to room temperature while preparing the grill. Light one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and arrange the coals on one side of the charcoal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate. Season the racks liberally with salt and pepper. Place the lamb fat side down close to but not directly over the coals. Cover and grill until well browned, about 8 minutes, rotating 180 degrees half way through. Remove racks from the grill and place fat side up on a platter or cutting board.
Spread the mustard over the fat side of the lamb. Carefully press the breadcrumb mixture into the mustard on each rack.
Place the racks back on the grill, fat side up, close to, but not directly over the coals. Continue to cook until an instant read thermometer registers 130 degrees when inserted into the side of the rack, another 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the grill and let rest uncovered for 10 minutes. Cut between each rib into chops and serve.
FOR THE RATATOUILLE:
3 cups 1/4-inch diced summer squash, such as zucchini and yellow squash (about 4 small or 2 medium squash)
3 cups 1/4-inch diced Italian eggplant (about 1 medium eggplant)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3/4 cup (12 tablespoons) extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more as needed
3 cups 1/4-inch diced yellow onion (about 3 medium onions)
6 medium cloves garlic, minced (about 2 tablespoons)
3 cups 1/4-inch diced red and yellow bell pepper (about 4 large peppers)
2 cups pureed canned whole tomatoes, with their juices, from 1 (28-ounce) can (see note)
1 bouquet garni (herb bundle), made from fresh herbs such as thyme, parsley, and basil, tied together with butcher's twine (see note)
Chopped fresh parsley leaves and tender stems, for garnish (optional)
DIRECTIONS:
Place summer squash in a wire mesh strainer set over a bowl; place eggplant in a second wire mesh strainer and set over a second bowl. Toss both with a liberal amount of kosher salt and let stand to drain at least 15 minutes and up to 1 hour. Discard any liquid that collects in the bowls.
In a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and garlic, season with salt, and cook, stirring, until softened, about 6 minutes. Scrape onion and garlic onto a rimmed baking sheet and spread in an even layer to cool for 3 minutes. Transfer onion and garlic to a large pot.
Meanwhile, add 3 more tablespoons olive oil to skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add bell pepper, season with salt, and cook, stirring, until softened, about 7 minutes. Scrape bell pepper onto the rimmed baking sheet in an even layer to cool for 3 minutes. Transfer bell pepper to pot with onion.
Add 3 more tablespoons olive oil to skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add summer squash and cook, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes. Scrape onto rimmed baking sheet in an even layer to cool for 3 minutes. Transfer to pot with onion and bell pepper.
Add remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil to skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant and cook, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes; add more olive oil as needed if skillet dries out while cooking eggplant. Scrape eggplant into pot with other vegetables and stir to combine.
Set pot of vegetables over medium-high heat and stir in tomato puree and herb bundle; heat until ratatouille is gently bubbling, then lower heat to medium and cook, stirring, until tomato puree coats vegetables in a thick sauce, about 15 minutes. Discard herb bundle. Season with salt, stir in chopped parsley (if using), and drizzle with a small amount of fresh extra-virgin olive oil. Serve right away, or chill and serve either reheated, slightly chilled, or at room temperature.
This dish is as beautiful as it is delicious.
