A Tribute to Becky Wasserman
We sadly lost Becky Wasserman this week.
The diminutive, 4’9” Becky, as she was known to the world, was a giant to all who knew her.
She was a trailblazer as a young woman in the late 60's seeking to find a place for herself in Burgundy, a place of tradition and slow to embrace change. Certainly as a woman, she had her share of challenges in a field dominated by men. She was courageous and tenacious and developed lifelong relationships which morphed into lifelong friendships with some of the most talented and today, most famous winemakers in Burgundy.
With her encouragement and help, they started to estate bottle their wines and develop their own clientele, breaking from the traditional negociant model.
Later in life, Becky became a beacon and a mentor to scores of young people enthusiastic to learn about Burgundy.
She was a warm and comforting person to talk to who always inspired confidence and joy.
I/we will miss her greatly.
- Daniel
I had the pleasure of dining with Becky and her husband Russell at their home in Bouilland three times, and it was always a highlight of the trip. Bouilland is a tiny village (hamlet is probably a better word) in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, that is around 15 minutes up the road from Savigny-lès-Beaune. We would always be greeted with a glass of Champagne from one of Becky’s producers, often Pierre Gerbais, while Russell was finishing whatever amazing dish he was cooking in the kitchen. Becky was so generous in opening great wines from their cellar, including once a superb and rare René Engel, Vosne-Romanée 2002 (what is now Domaine d’Eugénie after its purchase by François Pinault). Dining at their table was always a reminder of Becky’s incredible roster of growers she represents - Mugnier, Lafarge, Lafon, Bize, Pataille… the list goes on and on. At the end of the meal, Russell would inevitably pull out a number of bottles from his incredible collection of digestifs and we would go to town on a 3L bottle of ancient Calvados… incredible memories with incredible people. Becky, thank you for your hospitality and your contributions to Burgundy and the world of wine. You will be missed.
- Max
My favorite thing about sitting at Becky’s table is a little hard to pin down. Of course, there was always a great bottle of wine or seven. Russell’s delicious and soul satisfying cooking. Lots of good cheer and conversation, and not only of the nostalgic variety, though there were always great memories shared. It certainly was those moments in between courses or just after dinner when I’d move over to a chair right next to her and get her talking about the good old days in Burgundy. Becky was as much a historian as she was a merchant or agent. She had a magical way of weaving these memories together via the most hilarious anecdotes about all the great winemakers like Aubert de Villaine and Michel Lafarge, and yet managed to convey how meaningful these people and memories were to her. A rule of thumb when visiting Bouilland was to engage the services of a taxi for the evening, to ensure that we could drink heavily without having to drive back to Beaune or wherever we were staying. Yet these dinners always fed the soul so heartily that I never look back on any of them with any cloudy memories or hazy hungover thoughts. Somehow spending time at that table always left a clear mark on my mind, and a wonderful memory.
Daniel and I were lucky to be able to sit at her table with her and Paul Wasserman earlier this summer, a quick visit in the late afternoon. We had no idea it would be the last time we’d get to see her, but it seemed important that we see her. We shared a glass of wine and a couple of laughs, and she seemed pretty content and had her usual bright beaming smile. It is the way I will remember her always.
-Raj
Please take a moment to watch and listen to Becky during this interview and lunch we had at her home in Bouilland in early 2018 which we recorded for a seminar presented at La Paulée de San Francisco that year.
