Domaine Roulot, Meursault "Les Luchets" 2007, en magnum
by Daniel Johnnes
June 8, 2022
It was a steamy early summer night and I was dining with my family in the wonderful garden at Popina restaurant in Red Hook, Brooklyn.
Knowing we would be eating outdoors on a warm night, I was reluctant to bring an extra special bottle as I have found hot weather does not provide the best environment for nuanced wines.
This night, however, was special. At least for me as it was my birthday dinner.
Thus, I went deep into my cellar and chose a magnum of Domaine Roulot, Meursault “Les Luchets” 2007. Having had it before, I knew it could be a delicious wine to share with my kids, wife and friends but one never knows. Well, this one delivered and delivered again and again. It was a magnificent wine in all its glory, as it is just starting to evolve from a primary stage into adolescence/young adulthood. What struck me and my son immediately was the radiant, golden green color with reflections reminding me of sparks of sunlight and electricity.
It is no mystery that Jean-Marc Roulot is one of the best white winemakers in Burgundy and is known for isolating the “lieux dits” of this domaine; a practice his father, Guy Roulot, started as a way to demonstrate the unique expression of each terroir.
Luchets lies just a bit higher on the slope from the legendary strip of great sites: Narvaux, Tillets, Casse-Tetes, Tesson, Rougeots. Although not as well known as Tesson in the Roulot portfolio, I have loved this vineyard over the years as has Jean-Marc. His love of it is evidenced by him writing a play dedicated to it titled ‘Meursault Les Luchets’, which he performed twice during La Paulée, once in New York and once in San Francisco. It was meaningful to see how the spirit of a vineyard can inspire such creativity and become a force much greater than the banality of a simple bottle of wine.
Back to this magnum. It was spectacular as was the company and food. I can’t wait to go back and enjoy a great bottle from one of the best wine lists in NY.
