Burgundy Vintage Report 2020

February 24, 2022
by Edouard Bourgeois

Daniel, Raj and I were lucky to travel to Burgundy and taste at many domaines of the Côte d’Or last week. Doing so during the month of February offers the opportunity to taste the vintage being bottled, in this case 2020, but we were also able to get a glimpse of 2021, a very different vintage, which we will speak about in a different article and when the wines are ready for bottling.

If 2020 was marked by the obvious historical pandemic that shook the world, most French vineyards were also affected by an extraordinary climatic phenomenon that led to one of the earliest harvests ever recorded, in some cases, one month early. Many vignerons were reminded of the heat wave of 2003 that also dictated they pick in August. However, we’ve heard on multiple occasions that it seems the plant has adapted to warmer conditions and in 2020, even if the vines took the heat, they seem to have better responded to the high temperatures, eventually making wines with more freshness and less jammy aromas. It is also important to note that their growing season had a normal length once the crucial flowering stage kicked off.

So, what is the result in the glass? Well, enthusiasm is certainly unanimous among producers. Although the volume of wines made were far from generous, quality is certainly there. Starting with the reds, the first thing that strikes you is the color. The inky, rich garnet of the 2020s reminded me of what we’ve been seeing in the 2018, a vintage that also encompassed hot temperatures. But 2020 on the palate has an irresistible crunchy, juicy and delicious fruit quality with high tone acidity. This low pH in the wine is a real blessing because alcohol levels are quite high. The low precipitation recorded in 2020 gave finely grained tannins in the Pinot Noir, suggesting that these wines should age gracefully for decades.

The whites can be superb as well. Our first visit was at the iconic Domaine Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet. The property exclusively produces white wines, among the most ethereal Chardonnays on the planet. All of their 2020’s were marked by elegant purity and minerality, with the Pucelles expressing its typical salinity that literally makes the taster salivate. Overall, I prefer the whites from 2020 over the 2019s which I find can be a bit too exotic for my taste. Another vigneron who nailed the vintage was the young and dynamic Thierry Pillot of Domaine Paul Pillot.

Chistophe Roumier used a pretty generous amount of whole clusters in 2020. The result, as always, is stunning.

Bertrand Chevillon, explaining to Daniel how he remembers the hail storm that hit his Nuits-St-Georges vineyards at exactly 4pm on August 1st.

CHARLES PHILIPPONNAT DISCUSSES AN ALREADY HISTORIC HARVEST 2020

September 16, 2020

by Edouard Bourgeois

Through these highly informative videos made by our friend Marie-Pascale, you will learn the ins and outs of the 2020 harvest for the Champenois, starting with the testimony of Charles Philipponnat from the eponymous Champagne house. Charles explains the contrasted nature of the year and goes over the different stages of the season, starting a with a wet winter that proved essential to replenish the water reserve for the months that followed. The historic drought that hit France led to early debudding and early flowering. The precociousness of the vintage is the signature of a year that recorded one of the driest months of July ever. The exceedingly small canopy (the amount of leaves that developed during the growing season) helped reduce the rot pressure but exposed the grapes to sun, resulting in a decrease of 30% of the production due to sun burnt berries. M. Philipponnat also explains how he adapted his viticulture methods through grass management in between the rows of vines. And finally, some exclusive news regarding the illustrious Clos des Goisses where the last rows were just purchased by Philipponnat, now sole owner. The increase is small but symbolic, as the house has been working on acquiring these last rows for 85 years.

Watch the videos here.

The Clos des Goisses, now entirely owned by the Champagne house Philipponnat, is a fully south exposed, unique vineyard.

Christophe Roumier Discusses an Already Historic Harvest 2020

The Pressoir team is proud to present a series of videos brought to us by Richard Betts, our correspondent in Burgundy, who was able to interview some of the most celebrated winemakers of the region. We are really grateful that these talented men and women took the time to share their views on the unprecedented 2020 vintage. Among them, Christophe Roumier, interviewed in his legendary vineyard of Les Amoureuses, a climat classified Premier Cru but believed to deserve Grand Cru status by many, shares some rare and precious news on the vintage. Christophe, with his expert knowledge of the land, explains his strategy on when to pick each parcel, according to the rain that was expected the day after that interview while also touching on the role played by old vines. The winemaker also gives his opinion on the polarizing subject of whole cluster fermentation.

We hope that you will enjoy this video as much as we did. Stay tuned for more of these with other luminaries such as Dominique Lafon, Veronique Drouhin, Jean-Marc Roulot and many more...

Christophe Roumier in his vineyard “Les Amoureuses”

News from the Vineyard - La Paulée at Domaine Michel Lafarge

Domaine Lafarge, la Paulée wines

September 2, 2020
By Eléonore Lafarge

When the harvest is done, it’s time for La Paulée!

The 2020 harvest ended Friday August 28 at noon at Lafarge.

As soon as the last grape is cut, all the pickers start celebrating in the vineyard, making crowns out of vine leaves and returning to the domaine being hauled by a tractor. Everyone is singing and honking to let the village know that the harvest is done. The signing doesn’t stop for a few hours usually.

In the evening, La Paulée starts with l’apéritif, then continues with a dinner and can go on until the morning. There are always a few brave ones who don’t go to sleep!

In the Burgundian spirit, to thank the team, some nice bottles are opened. This year, my father decided to share an Aligoté Raisins Dorés as an apéritif, a Meursault 2017, a Fleurie La Joie du Palais 2016, a Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2011 and a Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 1983. Once all of these bottles are empty, people continue partying for a few hours.

La Paulée in Volnay is a bit more modest than the one in New York but everyone is happy and celebrating.

News from the Vineyard - Harvest time in Burgundy!

August 18, 2020

By Eléonore Lafarge

The 2020 harvest is around the corner!

Domaine Michel Lafarge, Clos du Château des Ducs, August 17, 2020

The harvest is the most important time of the year for winemakers. It is the result of an entire year of work, taking care of the vineyard to give the best grapes possible. It is always a special time of the year where a lot of different people come together to work but mostly have fun. The key word of harvest in any domaine of Burgundy is conviviality.

However, this year the harvest will feel different for two reasons.

First, because of the COVID-19 crisis, winemakers had to adapt to make sure the pickers will remain safe. Making sure no one has any symptoms, washing every tool very carefully, not getting too close to each other are the new norms. Each person will have his own tools (scissors, buckets, reusable plastic cup…) and not share them with the other pickers. The feeling of sharing that usually glides over Burgundy during the harvest slightly fades away.

Second, 2020 has been a very hot year. The hotness and dryness in April and May made the vines grow very fast. Since the end of July, France has suffered from a heat wave. These very high temperatures result in a very early harvest. Most domaines will start picking between the 18th and 25th of August. An earlier start than 2003! Fortunately, a little rain fell in Burgundy on the weekend, which helped the vineyard.