What's Pressoir Drinking

Domaine Dujac Clos la Roche 1988

September 21, 2022
Edouard Bourgeois

Most of the Côte d’Or villages produce wines with a certain signature, or style. Chambolle-Musigny often produced wines described as elegant, lean and perfumed while Gevrey-Chambertin embodies the power and structure Pinot Noir may be capable to express. Between these two communes lies Morey-Saint-Denis, a somewhat misunderstood village, where the wines made are not easy to classify or describe in broad, general terms. I really agree with a common belief that Morey-Saint Denis vineyards will tend to borrow the characteristic of the appellation they’re close to, Gevrey to the north or Chambolle to the south. With seven Grands Crus climats, including a fascinating geological study of terres rouges and terres blanches in Bonnes Mares, wonderful wines are produced in the village each year. Among these Grands Crus is the Clos de la Roche, whose name can have an interesting story. As Laurent Ponsot, an important figure in the village explains, the name could derive from the flat rock in the vineyard that was once used for sacrifices during Druidical times…

Domaine Dujac was born in 1967 when Jacques Seysses bought Domaine Graillet in Morey-Saint-Denis. After an apprenticeship with legend Gérard Potel of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or and with inspiration from his idols Charles Rousseau, Henri Gouges and Aubert de Villaine, Jacques released his first vintage under the label Domaine Dujac with the glorious 1969 harvest. 1968 was technically the first year he vinified; unfortunately it happened to be a mediocre vintage, sold off in bulk. The domaine quickly gained the recognition it deserved and is today considered to be among the very finest in the world.

Organic farming has been intensely developed since 2001 with biodynamic experiments. The domaine has also historically been known for a generous inclusion of stems during the winemaking. Jacques explains that using whole bunches helps keep the fruit intact, without bruising the berries and obviously the style of wine it produces - typically lighter colored but fragrant and delicate is what he adores. Typically lighter in color, I’ve always found these wines to have a ballerina elegance. I had the chance to taste an incredible bottle of Dujac Clos la Roche 1988 (note a different spelling here as the domaine changed to Clos de la Roche with the 1991 vintage) and this wine had a feather touch while delivering impressive presence and so much life for a 34 year old wine.  

Domaine Dujac bought their parcel of Clos de La Roche mostly from the initial 1968 acquisition of Domaine Graillet, adding some parcels in 1977 and 1990.