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What's Pressoir Drinking - Les Noëls de Montbenault
by Edouard Bourgeois
April 12, 2024
by Edouard Bourgeois
April 12, 2024
I tasted my first sip of Chenin from Les Noels de Montbenault during La Tablée 2022. Needless to say, I couldn’t have had a more surprising wine that night, a polar opposite to the heady Grenache and powerful Syrah poured across the room. Pascaline Lepeltier generously shared with me and some others a taste of this mind-blowing Chenin. Her profound love for the grape variety was palpable as her eyes grew wide open while pouring the 2016 elixir from Richard Leroy.
Back to my desk, I did some research and found out more about why this wine was so special.
Richard Leroy is one of these prodigy winemakers who follow a vision while understanding all the complications of the journey to get where they want. Initially an amateur of wine tasting, Richard belonged to a Parisian wine club where he was able to taste many wines from around the world. Refining his palate, he decided to make his own wine. He purchased Noels de Montbenault in 1996, a domaine that had been in existence for 25 years and always treated organically. This 3 hectare property, located in Faye d’Anjou, is known for its remarkable sweet Chenins, made from “grains nobles”, these intriguing rotten grapes where the sugar gets concentrated by dehydration of the fruit. So, Richard naturally started making these sweet wines, but in 1998 the rain devastated his production, making it impossible to develop the precious noble rot. Another issue he saw with the production of sweet wines was the inevitable use of sulfur. Inspired by Mike Angeli, a neighbor vigneron known for his superb dry Chenins, Richard decided to gradually produce more dry wines and less sweet wines to eventually focus solely on dry wines from his 2 parcels: Les Noels de Montbenault and Les Rouliers.
Montbenault is 2 hectares and planted with 40 year old vines at the top of the hill overlooking the Layon River. The soil is composed of schist on top of a volcanic bedrock. The vineyard is exposed to the south and benefits from useful windy conditions that help in drying out the vines, which limits the development of diseases.
Richard follows the biodynamic principles and his aversion for sulfur has grown to the point that he now only uses 20mg of SO2/liter compared to the conventional 150 to even 180 mg/liter commonly used by French winemakers on average. Even the barrels he purchases have never been treated with sulfur.
Of course, when a winemaker decides to forgo sulfur in winemaking, the risks of flaws in wine start to emerge. One of them, known as “mouse”, a descriptor for an undesirable dusty aroma, became a center of Richard’s attention and he was able to understand its phenomenon and of the two vintages I was lucky enough to taste, none were affected by mousy aromatics. Instead, the ethereal purity and freshness in both the 2016 and the 2017 were the signature of these magnificent Chenins, reminiscent of almonds and sharp citrus.
What's Pressoir Drinking? Stéphane Bernaudeau, Vin de France "Les Onglés"
by Max Goldberg Liu
Wednesday May 19, 2021
Our 4-part THIRST for the Loire Valley series prompted some, well, thirst for Chenin Blanc, and this bottle from Anjou wizard Stéphane Bernaudeau was a perfect way to slake it.
From a 2 hectare parcel on schist, Les Onglés may be Stéphane’s “entry” wine but it shows a remarkable amount of personality and complexity, just like the man, who farms his vines biodynamically, by horse, and usually untrained (ie. no wires).
Aromas of lemon oil and spices lead to an almost shocking amount of salinity and precision on the palate, surrounding a core of stone fruit. The minerality is really quite astounding, as is the length. What’s more, the wine is only 11% alcohol and is a perfect example of how some growers and terroirs can achieve one of the hardest feats in wine - creating power and intensity without weight, a phenomenon that was ascribed to the vineyard of Les Amoureuses by Fred Mugnier at La Paulée this year.
Now, it is not quite fair to compare the wines in any capacity, but for me, there is an echo of that same sensation and emotion.
This wine was a perfect pairing with cheese, especially with an Epoisses brought by Justine to lunch.
Stéphane trained with the now legendary Mark Angeli of La Ferme de Sansonnière and is firmly established as a pillar now of the natural/biodynamic school of winemaking in the Anjou region. The wines are extremely limited in production as he only owns 3 hectares of vines, but are available from many of the top NYC retailers like Chambers Street, Flatiron, and Crush. Stéphane also makes an even more limited and rare Chenin from a vineyard called Les Nourissons which has an average vine age of over 110 years - if you find a bottle, definitely snatch it up!
NEWS FROM THE VINEYARD - a devastating frost hammers much of France
by Max Goldberg Liu
Wednesday, April 14, 2021
by Max Goldberg Liu
Wednesday April 14, 2021
It has been a rough couple of weeks for vignerons throughout France - not just in regions where frost is not uncommon like Champagne and Burgundy, but also in the Loire, Bordeaux, the Northern Rhône, and even parts of the Southern Rhône.
In Burgundy, the problem was exacerbated by the warm and sunny weather the previous week, which meant more advanced - and vulnerable - buds on the vines. Also, some growers even saw the more dangerous “gelée noir” or “Black Frost” that is different from the more common hoarfrost. Black frost is not technically frost at all, but rather a situation when it is so cold that the plant tissue itself freezes and dies (hence the black necrotic vegetation…). Indeed, it was so cold in many parts of Burgundy and elsewhere that the candles that growers had painstakingly stocked (there was a major shortage across the country) were sometimes completely ineffective in raising the temperatures in certain vineyards above freezing.
As the Côte de Beaune is usually a week or so more advanced than the Côte de Nuits, the damage seems to be greater there, but perhaps not by much.
It is still early to confirm the extent of the damage, and there is always hope that the vines will rebound with a secondary bud-break, although that will also mean a much more complicated growing season - frost-damaged vines often have a tough time with flowering and secondary buds are often more susceptible to funguses and other diseases.
Other winegrowing regions were not spared - Guillaume Clusel in Côte-Rôtie estimates 60% of his Côte-Rôtie vines’ buds are damaged, and 40% in the Coteaux du Lyonnais. In Sancerre, Franck Bailly of Domaine Bailly-Reverdy says that all the villages saw some frost and that he estimates that he lost at least 50% of his crop.
This is clearly the worst frost in recent memory - certainly worse than 2016, with many growers having to ask their parents to comb the distant past for a comparison. Apparently some older winemakers in Burgundy remember 1956 as one such year…
The situation in the Côte de Beaune and Chalonnaise is very grave. And I don’t know if it’s much better in the Côte de Nuits. In sum, it’s much worse than 2016.
- Jean Soubeyrand, Maison Olivier Leflaive
We have indeed been severely affected, particularly with the whites. We spent multiple nights in a row fighting with candles but they were only very slightly effective…
- Jacques Devauges, Domaine des Lambrays
Still, the vigneron spirit will triumph, and so many growers have responded with a positive attitude. They have gone through tough times before and emerged stronger.
This will be tough to get through, but rest assured that we will never give up and that we will do everything we can to make a GREAT but small 2021 vintage.
- Benjamin Leroux
Complicated years happen, but we will continue our work.
- Nathalie Tollot, Domaine Tollot-Beaut
These three freezing nights were indeed a violent ordeal. We fought, but the conditions were too extreme. Even if it is too early to make a realistic assessment, the losses can be quantified from 50 to 100% depending on the sector.
But the vine will endure… and life is beautiful!
- Aubert de Villaine, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
What's Pressoir Drinking? (Turkey Day Edition...)
November 25, 2020
Raj Vaidya - Ulrich Stein, Riesling Kabinett Feinherb 2013
I’ve long been a proponent of drinking whites with fowl rather than leaning into the habit of picking a red, and while I think turkey is a pretty blank canvas for pairings, I like to pay more attention to pairing wines with the rest of the spread on the Thanksgiving table. With the smokiness of the sausage in my stuffing (shamelessly purchased from Restaurant Daniel rather than making it myself), the grilled squash I plan to serve and the sweet and salty cranberry jelly, I like to drink a slightly off dry Riesling from Germany, so I’ve picked one of my favorite producers, Ulrich Stein’s Kabinett Feinherb from 2013. Delicate, super mineral, with the weight of a feather and the palate reminiscent of rainwater, the perfect wine for tomorrow’s festivities…
Justine Puaud - Domaine Huet, Vouvray “Le Mont” Sec 1993
I always love to pair poultry with a juicy and elegant Pinot Noir. But this year I will go for something different. We chose the wine based on the stuffing. For this Thanksgiving holiday, we will stuff the turkey with raisins, prunes, nuts and a little bit of foie gras (as always!!!) and decided to open a Chenin from Domaine Huet Vouvray “Le Mont” sec 1993. I bought this bottle from our good friend James of restaurant Popina. My husband and I are Chenin lovers and are looking forward to discovering it.
For many wine insiders, Le Mont is one of Vouvray’s greatest vineyards. Some people even say it is indisputably a Grand Cru vineyard. With age, Le Mont develops strong perfume, great length and finesse. The richness of this age worthy Chenin Blanc will pair perfectly with the dry fruits in the stuffing and the saline aromas and notes of petrol will go superbly with the foie gras. My mouth is already watering….
Max Goldberg Liu - Domaine Didier Fornerol, Côte de Nuits Villages Rouge “La Rue des Foins” 2013 en magnum
While our Thanksgiving table will be a bit smaller than usual this year, the wines we drink can give back some of the warmth of being with family and friends. I’m looking forward to sharing this magnum from a winemaker friend, Didier Fornerol - it’s more generous and fruit-driven than many 2013 Red Burgundies I’ve had, but still has the vintage’s trademark cranberry or grapefruit-like tanginess that I think will be a great foil for the turkey.
J
aime Dutton - Champagne Chartogne-Taillet Les Barres Extra Brut
As I was picking out wines for our Thanksgiving festivities, I went straight to Champagne this year. Not just for the celebratory moment of the holidays but because I love Champagne and I love the wines of Alex Chartogne and I cannot wait to pop this bottle tomorrow! This year we will just be 6 at our table and 2 of them prefer sparkling cider, so I am very happy that I will be able to enjoy this Champagne not only at the start of the evening but also when we sit down to the table.
As our plates are filled with turkey, stuffing, fresh Cape Cod cranberry sauce, sweet potato and squash all doused in gravy, I can imagine there is nothing better than enjoying more than a glass of Chartogne’s Les Barres.
This bottle is from the 2011 harvest and is 100% Pinot Meunier.
Eléonore Lafarge - Domaine Trapet, Gevrey Chambertin 2017
I will celebrate my first Thanksgiving this year. Since this is a time to enjoy with your family, I wanted to feel like I was at home during these festivities, so I decided to drink a Gevrey Chambertin from Domaine Trapet from 2017. My family has always been close to the Trapet family, so enjoying a bottle of Trapet always makes me feel at home.
I am going to enjoy the traditional Thanksgiving menu, so this bottle should pair perfectly with the turkey. I am already hungry and thirsty when I think about tomorrow!
Daniel and Sally - Domaine Simon Bize, Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Les Guettes 1993.
Our small family gathering this Thanksgiving will enjoy a magnum of Domaine Simon Bize, Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Les Guettes 1993. Not only will the wine pair perfectly with the flavorful heritage turkey raised by our neighbor upstate but it is another way of giving thanks to friends and family. Patrick Bize was one of my dearest friends in Burgundy and this wine will remind me of how thankful I am to have known him and enjoyed so many great times with him.
Edouard - Domaine de la Grand’ Cour Fleurie Lieu-dit “Champagne” Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2017 from Dutraive
For those who know me, my wine choice for Thanksgiving may not come as a surprise. Yes, I love Beaujolais. An often, this wonderful wine is considered the best companion for turkey, so I couldn’t resist. I’ve been wondering how the cliché of Beaujolais for Thanksgiving was born. Is it because of timing? Probably. Beaujolais nouveau is celebrated on the 3rd Thursday of November while Thanksgiving happens the week after. Or perhaps people found out that a juicy, delicious Gamay was the perfect answer to an often dry bird meat (not everyone masters turkey roasting like Julia Child…). Anyway, for me, Beaujolais has its place on the table everyday, with arguably all sorts of food, if any!
The wine pictured here was made by winemaker Jean-Louis Dutraive, an incredibly generous and talented man I had the chance to visit him at his domaine in Fleurie, Beaujolais. I was also around when, during a Paulée in NYC a few years ago, he opened some of his old bottlings from the 1990’s and the crowd, sipping on Pinot Noir from DRC and Chardonnay from Leflaive, dropped their jaw as they experienced the incredible freshness from such old wines, and on top of that, from Beaujolais!
Jean-Louis’ wines are easy to recognize among others. First, simply by looking at their robe. Because they’re never filtered nor fined, they usually appear slightly cloudy, with an intense light ruby color splashed with hints of fuchsia. I found his wines to always be incredibly expressive, almost exuberant at times. Aromatically, I guess the name of the appellation “Fleurie” has the psychological power to suggest scents of flower but I do find the aromatic palette to be loaded with violets, tulips and roses. The smell of wine may be called “bouquet” for a reason.
Whenever I serve Beaujolais to my guests and friends, I really enjoy watching them take a sip and immediately see an irresistible grin light up their face.