What's Pressoir Drinking - Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

July 6, 2022
Justine Puaud

The Côte Chalonnaise

I don’t think we disagree on this - Burgundy is getting expensive… It actually gives us the opportunity to travel a bit further and make great discoveries like delicious Epineuil from the Côte Chablisienne, juicy Gamay from Beaujolais and fantastic Chardonnay from the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais.

Long in the shadow of the Côtes de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise has become a very beautiful ‘outsider’ which is worth the detour from all points of view.

I recently discovered the well-established Domaine Dureuil-Janthial with my husband. The first time it was at Eli Zabar on the Upper East Side during a blind tasting. It was a Rully village 2017. We then started to talk about that domaine with our wine friends and we quickly realized this is a domaine we shouldn’t talk about too much or soon we won’t be able to afford their wines.

At Domaine Dureuil-Janthial, all the wines are vinified with the same high standards and a meticulousness that not many domaines use. Céline and Vincent Dureuil are supporters of healthy viticulture and received organic certification from 2009 to 2016. From old vines and matured for a long time, the wines are homogeneous and maintain a very high level, with a real ability to age in the cellar.

The Rully is appreciated for its sharp, digestible and refined appearance. Maizières delivers a ripe and concentrated whole, all underlined with a very well-balanced woodiness. It paired perfect with the veal and the morels. It was a very nice birthday treat!

What's Pressoir Drinking? Bouchard Père & Fils, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 1955 en magnum

by Daniel Johnnes
Wednesday, February 3, 2021

I haven't had very many memorable birth year wines. But this one stands out as one of the best I've tasted from that vintage and one of the most beguiling wines ever for that matter. It was served to me as a guest of Bouchard Pere et Fils at their residence (Chateau) in Beaune. Their collection of mature vintage wines remains unrivaled anywhere in Burgundy, with close to 2 million bottles in their cellar going back to 1846 (Meursault-Charmes which I was also lucky to taste). This Corton-Charlemagne, served from a magnum, drew gasps when opened as the color was light for its age with hints of gold highlights. The aroma is impossible to describe as it was different every time I brought the glass to my nose. Some of the adjectives bantered about were lemon zest confit, frangipane, orange marmalade, caramel, honey. It would vacillate between youthful floral notes and mature, aged white Burgundy. I have never experienced a kaleidoscope of aromas and flavors from a wine one would consider on the decline. This wine is alive and continuing to evolve just as a person (hopefully) becomes more complex and wise over time. Merci Bouchard Pere et Fils for sharing this magnificent bottle with us.

What's Pressoir Drinking? (Turkey Day Edition...)

November 25, 2020

Raj Vaidya - Ulrich Stein, Riesling Kabinett Feinherb 2013

I’ve long been a proponent of drinking whites with fowl rather than leaning into the habit of picking a red, and while I think turkey is a pretty blank canvas for pairings, I like to pay more attention to pairing wines with the rest of the spread on the Thanksgiving table. With the smokiness of the sausage in my stuffing (shamelessly purchased from Restaurant Daniel rather than making it myself), the grilled squash I plan to serve and the sweet and salty cranberry jelly, I like to drink a slightly off dry Riesling from Germany, so I’ve picked one of my favorite producers, Ulrich Stein’s Kabinett Feinherb from 2013. Delicate, super mineral, with the weight of a feather and the palate reminiscent of rainwater, the perfect wine for tomorrow’s festivities…

Justine Puaud - Domaine Huet, Vouvray “Le Mont” Sec 1993

I always love to pair poultry with a juicy and elegant Pinot Noir. But this year I will go for something different. We chose the wine based on the stuffing. For this Thanksgiving holiday, we will stuff the turkey with raisins, prunes, nuts and a little bit of foie gras (as always!!!) and decided to open a Chenin from Domaine Huet Vouvray “Le Mont” sec 1993. I bought this bottle from our good friend James of restaurant Popina. My husband and I are Chenin lovers and are looking forward to discovering it.

For many wine insiders, Le Mont is one of Vouvray’s greatest vineyards. Some people even say it is indisputably a Grand Cru vineyard. With age, Le Mont develops strong perfume, great length and finesse. The richness of this age worthy Chenin Blanc will pair perfectly with the dry fruits in the stuffing and the saline aromas and notes of petrol will go superbly with the foie gras. My mouth is already watering….

Max Goldberg Liu - Domaine Didier Fornerol, Côte de Nuits Villages Rouge “La Rue des Foins” 2013 en magnum

While our Thanksgiving table will be a bit smaller than usual this year, the wines we drink can give back some of the warmth of being with family and friends. I’m looking forward to sharing this magnum from a winemaker friend, Didier Fornerol - it’s more generous and fruit-driven than many 2013 Red Burgundies I’ve had, but still has the vintage’s trademark cranberry or grapefruit-like tanginess that I think will be a great foil for the turkey.

J

aime Dutton - Champagne Chartogne-Taillet Les Barres Extra Brut

As I was picking out wines for our Thanksgiving  festivities, I went straight to Champagne this year. Not just for the celebratory moment of the holidays but because I love Champagne and I love the wines of Alex Chartogne and I cannot wait to pop this bottle tomorrow! This year we will just be 6 at our table and 2 of them prefer sparkling cider, so I am very happy that I will be able to enjoy this Champagne not only at the start of the evening but also when we sit down to the table.

As our plates are filled with turkey, stuffing, fresh Cape Cod cranberry sauce, sweet potato and squash all doused in gravy, I can imagine there is nothing better than enjoying more than a glass of Chartogne’s Les Barres.

This bottle is from the 2011 harvest and is 100% Pinot Meunier.

Eléonore Lafarge - Domaine Trapet, Gevrey Chambertin 2017

I will celebrate my first Thanksgiving this year. Since this is a time to enjoy with your family, I wanted to feel like I was at home during these festivities, so I decided to drink a Gevrey Chambertin from Domaine Trapet from 2017. My family has always been close to the Trapet family, so enjoying a bottle of Trapet always makes me feel at home.

I am going to enjoy the traditional Thanksgiving menu, so this bottle should pair perfectly with the turkey. I am already hungry and thirsty when I think about tomorrow!

Daniel and Sally - Domaine Simon Bize, Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Les Guettes 1993.

Our small family gathering this Thanksgiving will enjoy a magnum of Domaine Simon Bize, Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Les Guettes 1993. Not only will the wine pair perfectly with the flavorful heritage turkey raised by our neighbor upstate but it is another way of giving thanks to friends and family. Patrick Bize was one of my dearest friends in Burgundy and this wine will remind me of how thankful I am to have known him and enjoyed so many great times with him.

Edouard - Domaine de la Grand’ Cour Fleurie Lieu-dit “Champagne” Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2017 from Dutraive

For those who know me, my wine choice for Thanksgiving may not come as a surprise. Yes, I love Beaujolais. An often, this wonderful wine is considered the best companion for turkey, so I couldn’t resist. I’ve been wondering how the cliché of Beaujolais for Thanksgiving was born. Is it because of timing? Probably. Beaujolais nouveau is celebrated on the 3rd Thursday of November while Thanksgiving happens the week after. Or perhaps people found out that a juicy, delicious Gamay was the perfect answer to an often dry bird meat (not everyone masters turkey roasting like Julia Child…). Anyway, for me, Beaujolais has its place on the table everyday, with arguably all sorts of food, if any!

The wine pictured here was made by winemaker Jean-Louis Dutraive, an incredibly generous and talented man I had the chance to visit him at his domaine in Fleurie, Beaujolais. I was also around when, during a Paulée in NYC a few years ago, he opened some of his old bottlings from the 1990’s and the crowd, sipping on Pinot Noir from DRC and Chardonnay from Leflaive, dropped their jaw as they experienced the incredible freshness from such old wines, and on top of that, from Beaujolais!

Jean-Louis’ wines are easy to recognize among others. First, simply by looking at their robe. Because they’re never filtered nor fined, they usually appear slightly cloudy, with an intense light ruby color splashed with hints of fuchsia. I found his wines to always be incredibly expressive, almost exuberant at times. Aromatically, I guess the name of the appellation “Fleurie” has the psychological power to suggest scents of flower but I do find the aromatic palette to be loaded with violets, tulips and roses. The smell of wine may be called “bouquet” for a reason.

Whenever I serve Beaujolais to my guests and friends, I really enjoy watching them take a sip and immediately see an irresistible grin light up their face.

What's Pressoir Drinking?

November 11, 2020
By Eléonore Lafarge

I feel very honored and privileged to live in New York. Even though 2020 is not an easy year, it is filled with historic moments and I am happy to be able to witness all these important moments that are happening in the US from the inside. This weekend the city was filled with euphoria and excitement so it seemed like a great weekend to (safely) celebrate and enjoy a nice bottle of wine.

 As a Burgundian, there is no better way to celebrate than with a bottle of Burgundy. So, I decided to enjoy a bottle of Clos de la Chapelle. Opening a bottle of Burgundy always makes me feel at home, even more when the bottle is from my parents’ neighbor!

 The very nice weather that we enjoyed this weekend called for a nice Chardonnay. I opted for a Domaine du Clos de la Chapelle, Beaune 1er Cru Les Reversées 2016. This Domaine du Clos de la Chapelle 2016 was very enjoyable even though the vintage was not the easiest due to the frost in Burgundy. There are not a lot of producers of Beaune 1er Cru Les Reversée blanc, so it was nice for me to discover a new wine. I enjoyed the bottle as an “aperitif” to warm up for dinner.  The wine was very fresh, deep and full-bodied. I liked the finish that was nice and lemon-flavored.

Domaine du Clos de la Chapelle, Beaune 1er Cru Les Reversées 2016

Celebrating La Paulée de Meursault "At Home"

November 11, 2020

Les Trois Glorieuses (Three Glorious Days) is the November trilogy of events in Burgundy beginning with the wine auction at the Hospices de Beaune followed by a dinner at the Clos Vougeot and culminating in La Paulée de Meursault, the famous BYOB lunch in the Château de Meursault that normally hosts around 750 guests but sadly had to be canceled this year.

In honor of the event that inspired our own Paulées de New York & San Francisco, we are drinking Meursault all week!

Follow us on Instagram to see what bottles we (and some special friends from Meursault) are opening.

La Paulée @lapaulee
Daniel @danieljohnnes
Jaime @jwestd
Max @maxgoldbergliu
Edouard @sommbody
Raj @rajvine
Justine @ju_puaud
Eléonore @eleonore_lafarge

Great Well-Aged White Burgundy

August 25, 2020

by Daniel Johnnes

These days white Burgundy lovers are often reluctant to open a bottle of well aged white for fear of finding it oxidized. In order to mitigate that risk, we open our whites young, too young and rarely get to see the full expression of its grape (chardonnay) and more importantly, its terroir.

This is not a story about ‘premox’. We will save that for another time. And a sad story it is. This story is a much happier one. It is about a recent experience I had drinking a mature (maybe not even fully mature) white Burgundy from one of the iconic domaines in all Burgundy, white or red.

It was a Domaine Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ruchottes 1978. That is a 42 year old white Burgundy in pristine condition and it provided a rare and emotional experience for me. It reminded me how glorious these wines can be when given the proper chance to develop all the complexity and nuance that they are famous for. It disappoints me as well knowing that because of our fear of premox, few people know what a great mature white Burgundy can become. It is truly one of the great white wines on the planet.

This Ramonet lived up to its reputation and reminded me of the benefits of being patient with these rare and expensive jewels.

It had a brilliant light straw color with a hint of deeper colors suggesting some age but it was radiating flashes of gold, indicating a lively, healthy wine. The moment I was anticipating more than anything was when I raised the glass to my nose to take in its just released aromas after so many years. Like a genie released from its flask, it delivered even more than I was hoping for. It had laser like penetrating aromas of citrus, honeysuckle, gun-flint, from a bit of reduction and smoke. Then, everything was confirmed by the first sip that this wine was leaping from the fountain of youth yet with the wisdom of a more mature wine. This was a treasure to savor and remember and a motivator to seek out the next perfectly well aged white Burgundy.

What's Pressoir Drinking?

August 1, 2020

by Raj Vaidya

I recently passed a milestone birthday, and nothing makes an aging former sommelier feel younger than noting that the wines of his birth vintage are starting to decline, because I certainly feel healthier and more fit than most red Burgundy from 1980. ‘80 was a slyly great vintage for a long time, underestimated by many in the 80’s but appreciated by those in the know. Today, most of the reds are slowly coming apart. But the whites from the vintage are largely panned as mediocre in the best cases, terrifically bad in the worst. And so though I had a number of red Burgs I wanted to enjoy with friends of the same age this year, my one bottle of white Burgundy was something I placed very little value on. As it turns out, a very nice surprise awaited me…

I once asked Dominique Lafon about his memories of the Domaine des Comtes Lafon before he took over in the early 80’s, and he shared one with me which stuck out as hilarious and quite telling. Sometime in the late 70’s, he observed a member of the team putting a bin full of fairly botrytised grapes (the same mold that is found in Sauternes to make sweet wines) into a vat and asked him why he hadn’t sorted out the unfit, rotten berries. The fellow replied, “kid, to make a great wine, you need one third perfectly ripe fruit for the longevity, one third underripe fruit for the acidity, and one third botrytised grapes for the sugar concentration!” This hilarious (and today heretical) statement offers a window into common wisdom in the winemaking of the past.

Sure enough, this bottle had a fair bit of botrytis, and upon first opening it all of us present had to comment that it was surprisingly fresh, a very healthy bottle for its age and poor vintage pedigree. But it held a great deal more in store, and as the evening progressed it gained in volume, and in precision and salinity till it reached a plateau which was truly marvelous. Lemon curd, oyster shell and grassy aromas and flavors appeared, seemingly from out of nowhere. The length of the palate grew with air also, furthering our surprise and pleasure. That botrytis concentrates sugars, and thereby ripeness in a wine is well understood, but what I realized from this wine was that the botrytis concentrates everything; by allowing the water in the juice to evaporate the concentration of not only the sugars but the acids rise as well. If you squint at the less than ideal picture I managed to take on this hot evening in Tribeca, you can notice an (empty) tin of caviar through the glass sitting on the table. It was the perfect pairing!

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru “Goutte d’Or” 1980

What's Pressoir cooking? Lobstah!

July 21, 2020
by Max Goldberg Liu

I am a firm believer in not getting too caught up in wine pairings but I often like “simple” dishes that act as more of a blank canvas for a wine to shine. For me, there is nothing better than a simple roast chicken alongside a red Burgundy.

Vacation on Cape Cod last week gave me the opportunity to enjoy another favorite - lobster!

These were 1 1/4 lb specimens that we simply steamed for around 16 minutes. I’d much rather have two of these than a 2.5 pounder (I find the meat gets a little tough past two pounds). Tastier and less expensive - it’s a win-win!

The first wine we opened at the table was a Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc “Au Bout du Monde” 2018. Climate change has rendered the Hautes Côtes in Burgundy much better at producing ripe grapes but was still a little lean for my taste with the lobster.

We usually think of Blanc de Blancs Champagne when pairing with shellfish. We had drank our last bottle of Pierre Péters Cuvée de Réserve before dinner so I decided to open a Pierre Gerbais Cuvée de Réserve (the same cuvée that is now called Grains de Celle). The 25% Pinot Blanc in the blend added a wonderful touch of fleshy white stone fruit that paired beautifully with the lobster.

While these lobsters were simply steamed, I think my other favorite preparation would have also paired really well with the Champagne - my father’s Cantonese-style stir-fried lobster with ginger and scallion. Next time!

My Day with Noël Ramonet

June 24, 2020

By Daniel Johnnes

The Best Deal of My Life!

In the winter of 1989 I made one of my regular trips to Burgundy to taste the previous vintage. I made my usual stops to taste wines in the Côte de Nuits some days. domaines such as Roumier, Grivot, Mugnier, Rousseau, Dujac, L’Arlot and DRC. I would dedicate other days to domaines in the Côte de Beaune. Domaines such as Comtes Lafon, Roulot, Leflaive, Gagnard-Delagrange, D’Angerville, Lafarge, Pousse d’Or and many others over a 4-5 day stretch.

I learned to schedule my tasting at Domaine Ramonet at the end of the day as these tastings usually went on for several hours and made it impossible to taste anywhere else after this marathon visit. Noël was always generous with his time and wine. Not only would we taste through the entire range of appellations, including the Grand Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet and Le Montrachet but often we would taste multiple barrels of the same wine as he bought barrels from a wide range of ‘tonneliers’. And then, we would go back to appellations already tasted but from a different vintage (or two or three!).

On this particular day, I arrived with my embroidered jacket from Restaurant Montrachet where I was the sommelier. It was winter and the weather was typical Burgundy damp and bone chilling. It was getting late and I had to leave for Paris early in the morning for my flight home.

After the tasting and about to get in my car, Noël stops me and says, “Hé Daniel, donnes-moi ton blouson!” (Hey Daniel, let me have your jacket). I told him it was cold and couldn’t give to him but I would stop by in the morning on my way to the train. So, the next day, I stopped by looking for him and after about 30 minutes he comes out from the cellar. He was clearly expecting me because, just as I handed him my jacket he gave me a box containing two bottles of wine. I wasn’t expecting anything but when I opened it later to see what my gift was, I was pleasantly surprised to see two bottles of Montrachet. One bottle of 1984 and one bottle of 1983. Now, anyone who knows the 1983 Montrachet from Ramonet, this is one of the most special bottles of white Burgundy ever made!!! Merci Noël.

There is more to the story, so, stay tuned for part 2.

Insider's Look - Wines at La Paulée de New York 2020 Gala Dinner

June 23, 2020
by Max Goldberg Liu

The Gala Dinner at La Paulée de New York’s 20th anniversary was our biggest yet, and winemakers and guests came thirsty! Check out these facts and figures from the full list of wines served that night by our crack team of sommeliers.

Total number of bottles
2 Methuselahs (6L)
41 Jeroboams (3L)
195 Magnums (1.5L)
514 Bottles
2 Half Bottles

813.75 liters of wine or 215 US gallons for 400 guests - an average of over 2 bottles per person. That’s the Paulée spirit of generosity!

Type breakdown
65% Red
31.5% White
3.5% Champagne

As we often see, guests enjoyed the whites but quickly moved into the reds.

Classification breakdown
58% Grand Cru
27.5% Premier Cru
6% Village
1% Regional
7.5% other region or class

Most popular villages
15% Gevrey-Chambertin
11% Vosne-Romanée
11% Puligny-Montrachet

Most popular vintages
2000
1999
1996

The first Paulée de New York took place in 2000, so many winemakers and guests leaned into the nostalgia by bringing wines from the 2000 vintage.

Oldest Wines
Violland, Romanée-Saint Vivant Grand Cru 1943
Drouhin, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 1943

Most popular appellations
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
Chambertin Grand Cru

Most popular domaines
Domaine Armand Rousseau
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
Domaine Dujac

Approximately 1 in 15 bottles in the room was a Rousseau!

1980's Burgundy Vintage Podcast

 0:16: 1980

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d’Or
Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles
Domaine de la Romanée Conti La Tâche Grand Cru
Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru
Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

2:13: 1981

Maison Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru Marquis de Laguiche
Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault
Henri Jayer Echezeaux Grand Cru

4:54: 1982

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Ramonet Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine de la Romanée Conti Montrachet Grand Cru
Henri Jayer Richebourg Grand Cru
Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds

8:22: 1983

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Ramonet Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs
Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

13:03: 1984

No highlighted wines.

14:25: 1985

Henri Jayer
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 
Domaine Francois Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots
Domaine Guy Roulot Meursault Tesson Clos de Mon Plaisir
Domaine Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Perrières
Domaine Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches
Domaine de la Romanée Conti La Tâche Grand Cru
Henri Jayer Richebourg Grand Cru 

18:43: 1986

Domaine Francois Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Coche Dury Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Domaine Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny Grand Cru
Domaine de la Romanée Conti Richebourg Grand Cru

22:13: 1987

Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir
Domaine de l’Arlot Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Clos l’Arlot
Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Domaine René Engel Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Domaine de l’Arlot Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets Saint Georges

25:06: 1988

Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
Domaine Blain Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet  Grand Cru
Domaine Coche Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
Domaine René Engel Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
Domaine Henri Jayer Echezeaux Grand Cru
Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques

28:05: 1989

Domaine Guy Roulot Meursault Les Luchets
Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières
Pierre Morey Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Ramonet Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Simon Bize Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Guettes
Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées
Domaine Dujac Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru

What's Pressoir Drinking? Domaine Coche-Dury, Meursault 2009

May 20, 2020
by Daniel Johnnes

I recently opened an extraordinary bottle of white Burgundy. There were several things about it that made it extraordinary in addition to its flavor. It was from the warm 2009 vintage. I was a little reticent about opening it, fearing it might display some of the heat of the vintage and lack zip. It was a village level wine and I was in the mood for a higher appellation such as premier cru or grand cru. Yet, in both cases, it performed better than many wines in those situations. It was fresh, focused and vibrant. It tasted higher than its classification. And it proves why Coche-Dury is such a reliable performer.

This was Meursault AC 2009. In fact, it was from the “Vireuils Dessus” parcelle which is high elevation and always bright. The warm vintage may have rounded it off just a bit but it was not at all flabby like some 09's can be.

Interview with Camille Thiriet

May 11, 2020
by Justine Puaud

Can you tell us a little bit about your “micro” business?

After several trips to Australia and New Zealand, I moved back to Burgundy and my dream came true! In 2016, I was creating a micro negoce in my garage. At that time, I was making only 2 wines in 7 barrels. My goal was to enhance the lesser-known appellations of Burgundy and be able to produce NO more than 15,000 bottles per year.

Have you made some changes in the vineyard and cellar work since the creation of your domaine ?

As I said, my goal was to be able to produce between 13,000 and 15,000 bottles of wine in the next 5 years. Today, I can say that I achieved my goal after only 4 years!

To give you some history: In 2016, I only had 2 cuvees for a total of 2,000 bottles:
Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Montagnes
Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Confidentielle

In 2017, I made a 3rd wine: Bourgogne Rouge les Blanches with my own vines from Pommard. I produced a total of 3,500 bottles.
In 2018, the production went up to 6,000 bottles! I added 3 wines in my micro domaine: a Vezelay, a Volnay and a Savagnin.
At the end of 2018, I bought some Aligoté vines in Pommard.
In 2019, I added the Bourgogne Aligoté and 2 news parcels of Côte de Nuits Villages which I am really proud of! The Côte de Nuits Villages Les Retraits and the Côte de Nuits Villages Les Vignottes. Total of the production of 2019 is 13,000 bottles.

Can you tell us a little bit about your Côte de Nuits Villages (from the most elegant to the most rustic)?

The three parcels are between Comblanchien and Premeaux-Prissey.

1. The Côte de Nuits Villages Les Retraits is literally next to Frederic Mugnier’s vineyard, Clos de La Maréchale. It is an elegant wine with a nice aroma of crushed strawberries. In my opinion, this is not representative of a Côte de Nuits Village because it is very subtle and delicate.

2. The Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Montagne is in front of Château de Comblanchien, on the slope. The vines benefit from exceptional exposure to the sun. Based on the geographical situation, it is definitely a terroir of a premier cru. This wine has more structure and more tannins.

3. The Côte de Nuits Villages Les Vignottes faces the Clos de La Maréchale but is on the other side of the road. This is the “big daddy” of the 3 parcels. Beautiful dark ruby color with good tannins. On the palate there is a dominance of dark fruits and raspberry. I love the fact that they are all in the same area but so different. It is a good example of Burgundy and its notion of terroir.

When do you think it is a good time to drink your wines in general?

Ideally with a minimum of 3 years!

Do you have new projects for the domaine?

Now I am in a phase of stabilization. I want to keep control of everything. At this time I cannot increase my production. My partner, Matt, is helping part time but most of the time I have to do everything by myself. There is quite a lot between the grape purchasing, the vinification, the client relationships, etc…

Have you always wanted to be a winemaker?

When I was younger, I always wanted to be the “nose” of a perfume company. I was not really into science... My major in college was literature so after my graduation I decided to enter a Business School specialized in Wine Marketing and Management. After my MBA I knew I didn’t want to work in sales...I moved back to Burgundy and worked with Nicolas Potel. I did the harvest and the vinification. This is where I realized I loved the production side of the wine. I quickly asked if I could buy grapes from him. I tried to convince my partner Matt. He said “no” the first time, the second time and then he finally said yes!! It was in 2014 when we started with our first purchased grapes.

What is your general winemaking philosophy?

I am learning everyday and asking myself consistently if I am doing the right thing. It is stressful but I am learning from my mistakes. I think making wine is like cooking. You need to know your products perfectly to make a great dish! You taste and then you adjust if necessary. All your senses are stimulated. I think the vinification is like the butterfly effect. Every single decision will have a huge impact on your wine. This is the most stressful and important moment in the wine making process. Each winemaker has his/her own identity and his/her own signature.

What's Pressoir Drinking? Domaine Tollot-Beaut, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 1991

May 6, 2020
by Raj Vaidya

A rare treat to taste a perfectly stored older bottle of white Burgundy in great shape. The wine had terrific vibrancy and finesse, with all the lemon curd acidity of Corton Charlemagne and the saltiness too. Great length! Tollot-Beaut 1991, with scallop ceviche and grilled langoustines for a delicious Sunday supper.

What's Pressoir drinking? Domaine Bernard Moreau & Fils, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes 2011

April 15, 2020
by Edouard Bourgeois

In my opinion, Alex Moreau is one of the top winemakers in Chassagne-Montrachet. His premier cru les Chenevottes displays a beautiful richness and depth. It made an ideal partner for lobster.