News from the Vineyard

January 13, 2022
by Justine Puaud

Carbonic Maceration in Burgundy

Is carbonic maceration associated with Beaujolais? Not always. This technique tends to seduce more and more winemakers from other wine regions to make natural wines but also long aging wines. The carbonic technique is simple. This involves placing the whole berries, not crushed, in an airtight tank saturated with carbon dioxide. This triggers an intracellular fermentation inside the berries, under the action of native enzymes. It brings out the fruity aromas and reduces the tannins of the wines produced. 

I recently interviewed Arnaud Laventureux of Domaine Roland Laventureux in Chablis, who made a fantastic and delicious Bourgogne Epineuil with carbonic maceration.

Domaine Roland Laventureux has been an all white wine domaine, producing Chablis only. In 2019, the Laventureux brothers started to make the first red wine of the domaine. They harvested 0.4 ha of pinot noir, producing 350 litres of Bourgogne Épineuil. In 2021, they harvested the whole four hectares of what used to be Domaine des Noisetiers. 

Arnaud’s dream was to make Chambolle-Musigny, so to make red wine was always a goal. After many negotiations with the family, he was able to harvest a tiny parcel of pinot noir. It was his chance to make a great pinot noir, not from Chambolle-Musigny but from Épineuil.

Let’s be fair: Épineuil is not well known. The terroir is quite poor and the yield is very low. But as Arnaud’s parcel was really well exposed with a soil rich in limestone and kimmeridgian oysters, he decided to meet the challenge and make the best Épineuil anyone has ever tasted.

Winemaking is a recipe. You follow the instructions and then you add a bit of salt, cream and pepper to make a fantastic dish! 

Arnaud’s winemaking technique is totally unique in Épineuil.

In a few words:

• Debudding to help concentrate the juice

• 14 people who sort berry by berry to keep only the best

• Maceration for about 1 month and half

• Vatting (cuvaison) for more than a week

• Aging in stainless steel vats for 1 year and 2 months

The most difficult part in his vinification was to keep a beautiful elegance to the fruit. It was a winning bet. His pinot noir expresses the vintage. There is a beautiful fruit with silkiness and flesh. Bravo Arnaud. We cannot wait to taste the 2020 vintage!

News from the vineyard - Saint Emilion Classifications

January 7, 2022

By Edouard Bourgeois

Does the Bordeaux wine classification even matter?

 Since the beginning of my sommelier career, whenever the Bordeaux wine classification is brought up in a discussion, it is always followed by comments on its relevance. What better example than Chateau Lynch Bages, a fifth growth that arguably flirts with the quality of second growths? 

There are a few issues with that classification. Emperor Napoleon III imposed the famous 1855 classification of left bank Chateaux. Unlike Burgundy, where the pyramid of crus ranks vineyards, in Bordeaux it is the properties that were ranked among themselves. And besides Mouton Rothschild, no modification has been made since 1855, despite changes in vineyards’ location, size ,ownerships, vineyard management, farming technique etc…
And clearly, knowing that Mouton Rothschild was the only chateau bumped from second to first growth in 1973 is a more useful piece of information for a sommelier exam than real guidance on what vintages to collect.

One would think the situation is different on the right bank, where Saint-Emilion has its own classification which is revised every ten years or so. For the longest time, only Ausone and Cheval Blanc were towering at the top of the heap until Figeac and Angelus joined the VIP club in 2012. A small revolution in the region. I remember meeting Pauline Vauthier of Chateau Ausone around that time of her first visit to New York and she didn’t hide her dismissal of the classification.

Last summer, along with veteran Cru Classe “A” Cheval Blanc, Ausone eventually announced that they would leave the classification, complaining about the criteria for ranking such details as wine tourism numbers and social media-followers…

The 2022 Saint Emilion classification just got released and it is now Angelus that announced it would leave the classification. Note that it doesn’t mean the prices will drop for this wine currently trading at $369 for 2020, the next vintage to be released. 

This really just makes for juicy gossip that doesn’t matter much to the real wine enthusiast who will more certainly follow the guidance of critics’ scores than knowing if Cheval Blanc is Cru Classe “A” or “B”…

As I’m writing this, I am remembering the sumptuous wines we opened at Francie during our most recent Pressoir wine dinner. All these Saint-Emilion were singing and I don’t recall anyone mentioning their rank on the classification.

News from the vineyard

By Justine Puaud
November 18, 2021

Burgundy in the Fall with Pressoir.wine Travel

Many Burgundians will say that autumn is the best season to discover Burgundy. This is the perfect time to get lost in the flame-coloured vineyards and savor gourmet recipes paired with the greatest wines) Bruce decided to go back to Burgundy for the third time to spend some quality time with his family.

What is unique about Burgundy is the immense diversity you will find in such a small territory.  During five full days, Bruce and his family drove around Chablis, Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits, walked through the vineyards, entered the winemaker's cellar, tasted the new vintage in barrel and learned so much.

Highlights of his trip:

1. Spectacular visit at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüe in Chambolle-Musigny with Jean-Luc Pépin.
   With more than 500 years of history and the lion’s share of one of Burgundy’s most hallowed Grand Crus, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is a cornerstone of Burgundian legend. Bruce met Jean-Luc Pepin and his wife Brigitte at the Gala Dinner of La Paulée 2020 and shared some glasses of wine. This time, Jean-Luc opened his doors to Bruce and his family. They spent all morning together and tasted 2020 in a barrel. The special treat was the Musigny. Profoundly flavored and impressively structured, yet still lacy and light on the tongue; a wine that will age for 30 years or more with grace.

2. Spend a day in Chablis and drink Chablis Valmur 2015 of Domaine Raveneau for less than 100 euros at Maufoux in Chablis.
   Bruce spent a day in the small village of Chablis. He went to see Christian Moreau and his son Fabien and finished the day with a nice visit at Domaine Louis Michel & Fils. Both wineries believe in meticulous care in the vineyards, reducing the use of harmful products and highlighting the unique terroir of Chablis. Christian Moreau is a character. He is progressively handing his torch to his son who has taken these wines to ever higher levels of precision in recent years.

3. Fantastic food and wine pairing lunch at Maison T owned by the Trapet family.
   According to Bruce, this was one of the best meals he had.
   Jean-Louis Trapet opened his maison d’hôte, located in an 18th century bourgeois house, in 2012. Jambon persillé and Boeuf Bourguignon are on the menu accompanied with some of their Rieslings, followed by Gevrey-Chambertin, Chapelle-Chambertin Latricières-Chambertin and Chambertin Grand Cru. Latricières-Chambertin 1999 was the favorite of everyone. 

4. Discover the aligotés of well-established winemakers.
   Bruce was surprised in a good way how winemakers loved to showcase their Bourgogne aligotés. Vibrant, accessible, expressive of its terroir, resilient in the face of climate change, this grape variety shines toward a bright future. In 2022 La Paulée will showcase Bourgogne aligoté from many winemakers. Stay tuned for more details!

Our team has many years of experience in travel but more importantly perhaps, great relationships in many different wine regions of France which allows us to offer bespoke travel to the wine wanderlust looking to explore the great wines of France with visits to the regions discovering the vineyards and tasting in the cellars. If like Bruce, you want us to put a fantastic trip together in Burgundy or beyond, contact Justine justine@pressoir.wine.

What to plant, when and where.

By Edouard Bourgeois
October 28, 2021

The important notion of terroir is directly connected to a wine’s DNA and part of what defines the terroir is the grape variety. Imagining a Vosne-Romanée with no Pinot Noir or a Pomerol with no Merlot is simply impossible. The varietal is so important that the New World largely embraced the idea of making it the name of the wine. This is how terms like “Napa Cab” and “Barossa Shiraz” came to be known as practical names for consumers to recognize.

While the topic of global warming continues to animate conversations among everyone including winegrowers around the world, the question of grape variety being adapted to the newer climatic condition has been on the rise. Delicate and finicky varietals such as Pinot Noir may not seem to grow as well as they have been on their usual terrain, which led to rumors of planting Syrah in Burgundy... On the other side of the country, in 2019, the Union of Bordeaux AOC announced that seven new varieties were approved. In 2021 six of them were given a green light by the INAO (Institut National des Appellations d'Origine) for vineyard trials.

The approved six are:

Marselan (a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache created in 1961)

Touriga Nacional (best known in Portugal)

Castets (nearly extinct; described as a "long-forgotten Bordeaux grape")

Arinarnoa (a little known cross of Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon created in 1956)

Albarino (Alvarinho)

Liliorila (a 1950s crossing of Baroque and Chardonnay, reportedly also created in 1956)

The odd one out of the seven proposed, which was not confirmed by the INAO, was Petit Manseng, a late-ripening grape popular in South West France and often used in dessert wines. It was felt this grape was too emblematic of the Pyrenées-Atlantique region, in the way Pinot Noir would be for Burgundy.

Petit Manseng is not entirely alone, however. According to the CIVB over 50 grapes have been considered for inclusion in Bordeaux wines since 2010.

Plump Marselan grapes in Bordeaux

Elizabeth Wolkowich, an assistant professor of organismic and evolutionary biology, co-wrote a new study that suggests that, although vineyards may be able to counteract some of the effects of climate change by planting lesser-known grape varieties, scientists and vintners need to better understand the wide diversity of grapes and their adaptions to different climates.

Wolkowich in her own words: “The Old World has a huge diversity of wine grapes — there are more than 1,000 varieties planted— and some of them are better adapted to hotter climates and have higher drought tolerance than the 12 varieties now making up over 80 percent of the wine market in many countries”.

I recently opened a bottle of red Mas de Daumas Gassac from 1979. This now emblematic wine of the Languedoc was born out of the visionary mind of Aime Guibert, founder of the Mas de Daumas Gassac in 1970. His idea was to grow Bordeaux varietals complemented by a wide diversity of “heirloom” varietals which of course forced him to declassify his wine to the mere Vin de Pays de l’Hérault appellation, although I won’t say that being banned the use of the Coteaux du Languedoc AOC is such a loss of prestige…

Its 50 hectares are planted with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Tannat, Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto for reds and Viognier, Chardonnay, Roussane, Marsanne, Chenin Blanc, Petit Manseng, Sercial and Muscat.

Aimé Guibert died at age 91 five years ago. His wines remain and if you can find an old vintage, do not hesitate. The 1979 was grandiose.

1979 was the second red vintage produced at the domaine. It showed a lot of life and characterisitc aromas of a superior Languedoc wine with dried herbs, dates, figs and smoked meat.

News from the Vineyard

by Edouard Bourgeois
September 23, 2021

If, like me, you follow producers such as Domaine Lafarge, Jean-Marc Roulot or Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg, you may have noticed that the crucial time of harvest has arrived.

Among the first to harvest was Domaine Simon Bize on September 12. Domaine Lafarge and their neighbor Marquis d’Angerville both started picking beautiful, small and concentrated clusters of Pinot Noir on Monday. Dominique Lafon picked his first grapes in Volnay last Friday, The Mugneret-Gibourgs started yesterday. Burgundy winemakers are firing on all cylinders.

2021 was marked by a historic episode of spring frost, destroying mostly Chardonnay vines and seriously impacting the production of the famous whites of the Cote de Beaune. Pinot Noir were also affected but to a lesser extent. Anthony Hanson, who writes for Jancis Robinson, notes in an early July article: “The frosts affected Chardonnays in strange ways. Domaine Blain-Gagnard in Chassagne-Montrachet report that they may have lost 65% of a normal crop in the Premiers Crus La Boudriotte and Cailleret, where La Grande Montagne (higher up the hill) is 90% affected. Their Grands Crus and village-level wines were less damaged. Informally, I gathered that Domaine Leflaive may be looking to produce 40% of a normal crop”

Summer was overall rainy and humid, a situation far from ideal, although the water tables needed to be replenished after a very dry spring. Rot pressure is certainly the main concern for vignerons and the sorting tables are in full swing.

Good luck to our vigneron friends!

News from the Vineyard

September 15, 2021
By Edouard Bourgeois

After seeing a recent post from the always informative and beautiful Instagram account of Domaine Lafarge, I wanted to share a few thoughts on the magic of fermentation. In the social post, Clothilde Lafarge shows pictures describing the making of “a pied de cuve”. The French expression translates to “foot of tank” and is basically the winemaking equivalent of a sourdough starter to make bread. The idea is to cultivate local yeasts also referred to as indigenous yeasts, naturally present in the environment of the winery and the vineyard. Without yeasts, the alcoholic fermentation cannot occur and wine cannot be made. It is then essential to pay attention to the quality of these yeasts and their origin. Terroir? Did you say terroir?

The process aims to build a population of viable (alive yeast) and vital (strong) elements in the wild yeast culture in a small volume of wine. This helps the winemaker to complete a clean fermentation (low volatility and reduction, without spoilage yeast or bacteria) that successfully consumes all of the sugars leaving a dry wine.

The process involves picking a small amount of grapes a few days to a week before all of the grapes are going to be picked. The grapes are crushed and allowed to start fermenting. This builds the population of the native yeasts that were present on the grapes. This culture is then added to the rest of the grapes when they are picked.

Using a Pied de Cuve helps start a fermentation quickly, and, through its production of carbon dioxide, to protect the wine or bunches from oxygen exposure and potential production of volatility.

The Pied de Cuve is often built up by adding more fresh juice/grapes to double the volume when the yeast needs more food. This may be undertaken several times. Doing this increases the population of yeast to ensure there are enough to complete the fermentation of the main wine.

Like all things wine, there are thousands of different options for preparing a Pied de Cuve. Using whole bunches, just berries, starting the Pied de Cuve in the winery or in the vineyard, or even adding wild flowers to introduce the native yeast present on those flowers into the Pied de Cuve.ing of Pied de Cuve

Must in fermentation. The CO2 is a byproduct of alcoholic fermentation and forms this foam

News from the Vineyard in Champagne

by Edouard Bourgeois

September 2, 2021

Imagine having to remove half of your vines in order to keep making the wine you love? Although it is still unclear, the vignerons of Champagne may be required to do so by law, in order to meet the production specifications (Cahier des Charges) of the Champagne appellation.

While our La Fete du Champagne team is working on building this upcoming October festival, we are interviewing the participating growers to build our audio guide of the Grand Tasting. In one of these interviews with Benoit and Melanie Tarlant on zoom, I couldn’t help but notice the red logo displaying bold letters #NOVSL on Benoit’s tee-shirt. VSL is the acronym for “Vigne Semi Large” and designates a pruning system where vines are planted with a height of over 2 meters high and an increased space between the rows. The Champagne region is known for its high density of plantation with some vineyards reaching as much as 12,000 vines per hectare. Adopting the VSL would mean reducing that density of plantation to 3,800 vines per hectare.

In an area where tradition is so rooted in the culture and the commercial messaging, change is not always seen with a good eye and protests against VSL started to erupt on social media, leading to petitions. Although, the idea of reducing the plantation density is not new in Champagne. A number of larger Champagne houses have pushed the project since the 80’s. VSL’s detractors like the Tarlants denounce the industrialization this would cause in the region. If it is certainly easier to work in a vineyard where rows are wide enough to use a regular tractor, that also means the yield would be much lower. About 2,400 kgs of grapes per hectare under VSL would mean about 18% less than in a “normal” year in a vineyard planted traditionally. This also raises the question of machine harvesting, a practice that is strictly forbidden in Champagne where producers never cease to proudly remind their clients the magic words “vendangé a la main”, meaning harvested by hand.

What are the pros of the VSL project? The first idea is once again to make it easier to work with tractors, reducing labor costs by almost half. It is also believed that it would reduce the risk of spring frost thanks to better air circulation, reduce the use of herbicides since ploughing would be easier and finally offer a better response to climate changes. This last point is probably what divides producers the most. One of the strongest arguments against it is that VSL facilitates sun burns on the grapes due to less leaf cover.  

It will be interesting to see what the vineyards of Champagne, classified in the UNESCO World Heritage, will look like in 10 or 15 years.

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it?

Vines planted under VSL allow for a more ergonomic work position

The classic view of the Moulin de Verzenay surrounded by vineyards planted in high density

Napa Valley, a few words before our Pressoir.wine THIRST class

by Edouard Bourgeois
July 20, 2021

The sun’s powerful light is key to promoting photosynthesis and its warm rays are another crucial factor to producing healthy grapes around the world. In the historically cold wine regions, wine growers may choose to capture as much sun exposure as possible. They often choose to plant their vineyards with a southern orientation (in the northern hemisphere) and on steep slopes. The space between the rows also plays a role and farming techniques such as deleafing can increase sunlight exposure.

However, in parts of California, especially the famous Napa Valley, the sun may become a dangerous ally.

The world of wine was shocked when terrible news of the Napa wildfires spread last year. But the sadly famous Glass Fire that remained active for 23 days was the beginning of even more disasters to come. Smoke taint, dried up water reservoirs and increased insurance policies deeply impacted the region.

Red wines were more affected by smoke taint because the process to make red involved skin maceration, which is not true for a classic white wine where grapes are directly pressed. The irony is that red wines, and of course the staple “Napa Cab” are close to twice as much profitable than white wines.

Today, the Napa wine growers are taking stock of the situation and thinking about next steps. In last week’s edition of the Pressoir wine “The Press”, we covered the subject of capturing and recycling the CO2 naturally produced during fermentation in wineries.

Another critical topic in California is water. Is irrigation absolutely necessary in a region known for its violent drought? The celebrated winery Diamond Creek of Napa Valley, a pioneer in terms of single vineyards in the region, has embraced dry farming in parts of its vineyards.

Today, waste water from household toilets and drains is being re-used in vineyards after intense treatments. It is even predicted that such recycled water could one day become potable.

Our Pressoir.wine live THIRST class this July 29th will feature exclusive videos filmed by our team while in Napa a few months ago, featuring legendary producers Diamond Creek, Corison, Eisele Vineyards and others. Author Kelli White will share her incredible knowledge of the region and we will discuss important topics such as the evolution of farming, the diversity of terroirs and grape varieties with fascinating insiders’ stories. We hope to see you on screen for this virtual event.

News from the Vineyard

Trapping CO2 For a Cleaner Wine Industry

July 14, 2021
by Edouard Bourgeois

The wine industry is not often portrayed as a major pollutant and distractor of earth’s ecological balance. However, even organic, biodynamic and the sometimes polarizing “natural” wine producers cannot be entirely “green”, as Vincent Dauvissat himself reminded me on a recent trip to Chablis. “We all are polluters” he declared. From my own small experience of working in a renowned winery in Beaujolais, I remember the colossal quantities of water we would use to constantly clean the equipment, the price to pay for not using synthetic cleaning chemicals, which can almost seem ironic.

But amazing people follow amazing ideas, like our friend Diana Seysses of Domaine Dujac in Burgundy and Snowden Vineyards in California. Diana was featured in a recent, eye-opening article on SevenFiftyDaily this week where she talks about capturing the CO2 naturally produced by alcoholic fermentation and re-using it. After experiencing the wildfires of California at her family estate and then the historical frost episode of this past April in Burgundy, she found even more motivation to develop the strategy of carbon capture. “During vinification each year, winery buildings are full of pure, clean carbon dioxide—and we just blow it out the windows. I believe the ventilation of our wineries is a wasted opportunity” she explains.

This is a great article where Diana explains her journey in trying to make the process of carbon capture work. The pros and cons of such a process are exposed with raw humility but unbreakable passion.

Read the article on SevenFiftyDaily here

A tank for CO2 trapping and storing

Bourgogne Vezelay - An Heirloom Gem of the Burgundy Landscape

June 10, 2021
by Edouard Bourgeois

In France for just over a week now, I have rediscovered the charm of the medieval commune of Vezelay.

Part of the Yonne department, south of Chablis and the Sauvignon Blanc AOC of Saint-Bris, Vézelay is a Chardonnay-only AOC that was recently promoted to village-level classification (like Meursault or Chassagne-Montrachet), in 2017. Red wines produced in the region qualify for only the Bourgogne AOC.

It is in the south of the Grand Auxerrois territory which also includes the Irancy and Saint-Bris villages and other regional appellations such as Bourgogne Épineuil and Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse.

Vézelay wine is produced predominantly from Chardonnay grapes grown on limestone rich soils. In total there are just 66.5 hectares (164 acres) under vine. A little Melon de Bourgogne (best known in Muscadet), Pinot Noir and the regional specialty César are also grown, though wines made from these grape varieties are classified as Vin de France.

The vineyards are mostly planted on south facing slopes around the four villages, at varying altitudes of 180 to 300 meters (600 to 1000ft). The continental climate here contributes to the fresh, steely style of the white wines in particular. Most of the wines are produced by a Vézelay based cooperative, Cave Henry. However several smaller domaines make excellent wines. Here is a list of some of the best producers:

Domaine de la Cadette, Les Faverelles, La Croix Montjoie, Aegerter, Camille Thiriet and more…

The picturesque village of Vezelay has not lost its medieval heritage

A protected Roman ruin with the proud edifice of the Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine in the background. The monastery has been one of the major starting points for pilgrims on their way to Camino de Santiago.

NEWS FROM THE VINEYARD - a devastating frost hammers much of France

by Max Goldberg Liu
Wednesday April 14, 2021

It has been a rough couple of weeks for vignerons throughout France - not just in regions where frost is not uncommon like Champagne and Burgundy, but also in the Loire, Bordeaux, the Northern Rhône, and even parts of the Southern Rhône.

In Burgundy, the problem was exacerbated by the warm and sunny weather the previous week, which meant more advanced - and vulnerable - buds on the vines. Also, some growers even saw the more dangerous “gelée noir” or “Black Frost” that is different from the more common hoarfrost. Black frost is not technically frost at all, but rather a situation when it is so cold that the plant tissue itself freezes and dies (hence the black necrotic vegetation…). Indeed, it was so cold in many parts of Burgundy and elsewhere that the candles that growers had painstakingly stocked (there was a major shortage across the country) were sometimes completely ineffective in raising the temperatures in certain vineyards above freezing.

As the Côte de Beaune is usually a week or so more advanced than the Côte de Nuits, the damage seems to be greater there, but perhaps not by much.

It is still early to confirm the extent of the damage, and there is always hope that the vines will rebound with a secondary bud-break, although that will also mean a much more complicated growing season - frost-damaged vines often have a tough time with flowering and secondary buds are often more susceptible to funguses and other diseases.

Other winegrowing regions were not spared - Guillaume Clusel in Côte-Rôtie estimates 60% of his Côte-Rôtie vines’ buds are damaged, and 40% in the Coteaux du Lyonnais. In Sancerre, Franck Bailly of Domaine Bailly-Reverdy says that all the villages saw some frost and that he estimates that he lost at least 50% of his crop.

This is clearly the worst frost in recent memory - certainly worse than 2016, with many growers having to ask their parents to comb the distant past for a comparison. Apparently some older winemakers in Burgundy remember 1956 as one such year…

The situation in the Côte de Beaune and Chalonnaise is very grave. And I don’t know if it’s much better in the Côte de Nuits. In sum, it’s much worse than 2016.

- Jean Soubeyrand, Maison Olivier Leflaive

We have indeed been severely affected, particularly with the whites. We spent multiple nights in a row fighting with candles but they were only very slightly effective…

- Jacques Devauges, Domaine des Lambrays

Still, the vigneron spirit will triumph, and so many growers have responded with a positive attitude. They have gone through tough times before and emerged stronger.

This will be tough to get through, but rest assured that we will never give up and that we will do everything we can to make a GREAT but small 2021 vintage.

- Benjamin Leroux

Complicated years happen, but we will continue our work.

- Nathalie Tollot, Domaine Tollot-Beaut

These three freezing nights were indeed a violent ordeal. We fought, but the conditions were too extreme. Even if it is too early to make a realistic assessment, the losses can be quantified from 50 to 100% depending on the sector.

But the vine will endure… and life is beautiful!

- Aubert de Villaine, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

News from the Vineyard

October 13, 2020
by Justine Puaud

2020 Harvest in Sauternes and Barsac

Most of the French producers finished the harvest a month ago but we shouldn’t forget about one region in particular which is always the last one to pick the grapes. In the southwest of France, and more precisely, in Sauternes and in Barsac, winemakers started harvesting this past weekend. 

As a reminder, Sauternes and Barsac are world-famous sweet wines of Bordeaux. They are made from Sémillon, Sauvignon blanc, and Muscadelle grapes that have been affected by the botrytis cinerea, also known as “noble rot”.

Many Premier Cru Classé Châteaux have skipped the last few vintages because, according to the winemakers, the weather conditions were not optimal to produce a good vintage. From 2009 to 2014, Sauternes and Barsac made unforgettable wines. Each vintage was unique. Some fantastic vintages were recognized for their richness and opulence while some others are appreciated by the connoisseurs for their balance with a high acidity.

So what about 2020? Most of the winemakers in France seem really happy about this vintage, but what do the winemakers from Sauternes and Barsac have to say? The quality of the wines depends on the botrytis, which can be a capricious fungus. It can give the worst as well as the best. Sauternes and Barsac Chateaux were waiting for the botrytis to concentrate the sugars and acidity in the berries. But for that, they needed a set of climatic conditions that the 2020 vintage was slow to grant. 

On average, two sortings have already been carried out. Most Châteaux launched a first sorting on the week of September 14th. They harvested some grapes at the earliest stage of botrytis - very small but of good quality. The second sorting took place the week of September 28th and the grapes were very healthy. But the harvest was not done yet. For the final sorting, everything will depend on the weather conditions to come. The beginning of October was marked by significant rain and everyone is waiting for a clearing and wind for it to dry and for the berries to concentrate.

In any case, 2020 will not be a vintage marked by a strong yield though it should be a pleasant and quality vintage.

Next time, I will share my grandmother’s recipe of foie gras to pair perfectly with a Sauternes!

News from the Vineyard

by Edouard Bourgeois

September 29, 2020

Hand Destemming at Domaine Lafarge

Since 2016, a very unique and rarely seen device has reemerged at the famous Volnay domaine Lafarge. The “égrappoir a main” or hand destemmer (pictured below), used in the old days before mechanization took over, has been the tool of choice for some of the gorgeous Pinot Noir grapes of the domaine. Clothilde Lafarge, who came back to the domaine in 2018 and is now fully involved, explains how incredibly labor intensive the hand destemmer is. It takes no less than 35 hours per vat and up to seven people at once to do the job. But the juice is worth the squeeze.

The hand destemmer is made of woven wicker

The peaceful, serene atmosphere embraces the feeling of communion at the winery

No, this is not a close-up of a caviar tin, but the pristine berries of Pinot Noir after being delicately destemmed

News from the Vineyard

by Raj Vaidya

September 23, 2020

This week, the work our friends and colleagues in Burgundy are busy with is primarily inside the cellars. During the last two weeks of August, when New York felt a great deal warmer, the harvest in Burgundy was in full swing. I thought it would be fun to share a few fun facts illustrated by this video of a sorting table and destemming machine at the Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay. Guillaume d’Angerville has mentioned to me in the past that the identity of the wines at his family’s estate has long been defined by the purity of fruit that is associated with destemming the grapes. Though he has pointed out, in his father’s days the destemming was done by hand, and so was rougher and less efficient than today. The destemmer today works quickly and quite gently, and is more precise in removing all the stems.

The resultant wines are perfumed, supple and fairly deep in color thanks to the lack of stems. In this short video, you can observe the team at d’Angerville giving the grapes a last sorting on the conveyor table (unhealthy grapes have already been sorted out while harvesting in the vineyard, so this is a second run) as they make their way to the destemmer.

News from the Vineyard

Finally some Premiers Crus in Pouilly-Fuissé!

When I started learning about wine in my teenage years in France, it was my dad’s favorite quiz question to ask “what’s the difference between Pouilly-Fumé and Pouilly-Fuissé?” If you don’t know the answer, the former is a wine produced from Sauvignon Blanc grapes and a neighbor to the famous Sancerre in the center Loire Valley of France, while the latter comes from the southernmost sub-region of Burgundy and is of course made from Chardonnay. Even if Pouilly-Fumé has been quite famous and present on many French restaurants’ tables in the US for the last decades, its reputation as the “Burgundy of the poor” still seems to be deeply rooted in consumers’ minds. But this may change. A couple weeks ago, 22 climats were finally identified as Premiers Crus. Pouilly-Fuissé, despite being among the first wines to gain an AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) in 1936, never had the permission to claim Premiers Cru status. The overlooked appellation of the prestigious Burgundy wine region has finally earned the official recognition it’s been fighting for since 2007.

This area, part of the Maconnais and famous for the towering Roche de Solutré, a pilgrimage destination of former French President Francois Mitterrand, offers similar soil and subsoil as the rest of Burgundy with the typical clay and limestone combination, with the addition of a solid granitic base, a wink to its southern neighbor Beaujolais.

The news of elevating some Pouilly-Fuissé terroirs to Premiers Crus arrived in the middle of the historic 2020 harvest and is bringing a smile to many producers’ faces as it could translate into a financial boost in the region.

The Roche de Solutré, in the heart of the Pouilly-Fuissé AOP, towers over the vineyards at 1,640 feet

News from the Vineyard

Aÿ Grand Cru "La Côte Linguard"

Aÿ is one of the 9 Grand Cru villages in the center of the Grande Vallée de la Marne. Considered like “the champagne of kings”, this region is known for producing very high quality and full-bodied champagnes. While Aÿ is most notable for its Pinot Noir (90% of the vines planted), you can also find some excellent Chardonnay. 

Aÿ is not a homogeneous terroir, which is also part of its magic. This large area is composed of various folds of the slope across the hillside which create sites of different exposition and elevation. The blend of cretaceous chalk and sedimentary slope wash create subtle and complex wines that exhibit power and finesse. Peter Liem says (and I’m sure Daniel will agree) “if Aÿ were in Burgundy, it would be in Vosne-Romanée”. 

Today, we highlight one lieux-dit in particular in Aÿ, "La Côte Linguard". In the northern part of Aÿ, in the extension of  La Côte Faron and La Côte Aux Enfers, you will find this tiny area of La Côte Linguard. It is a historic vineyard which is part of the UNESCO classification. 

Our dear friends and fervent supporters of La Fête du Champagne, Bérêche et Fils* recently acquired 1 ha (2.5 acres) which represents exactly 8,010 Pinot Noir Vines and 846 Chardonnay vines. They are extremely proud and excited to add this beautiful Grand Cru vineyard composed of massale selections vines, flush chalk and steep slopes to their impressive array of holdings. Those characteristics should create beautiful wines with a lot of tension and complexity. Cheers to Raphaël Bérêche and his family - we look forward to tasting the juice!!

Bérêche et Fils (NM)In the village of Ludes, in the northern portion of the Montagne de Reims, brothers Raphael and Vincent are quietly crafting sophisticated, terroir-expressive champagnes that are poised to rival the region’s best. Their 22 acres of vines are located in several sectors of Champagne with the three primary areas being the immediate vicinity around Ludes. A portion of the vines are farmed biodynamically, and about three quarters of the production is vinified in barrels with indigenous yeasts. Unusually, Bereche bottles a number of cuvées with cork rather than crown caps for the second fermentation, which Raphael thinks results in greater depth and complexity in their wines. NM stands for Negociant Manipulant.
Information courtesy of Peter Liem's Champagne book.

Credit photo @philippemartineau_foodart

News from the Vineyard - La Paulée at Domaine Michel Lafarge

Domaine Lafarge, la Paulée wines

September 2, 2020
By Eléonore Lafarge

When the harvest is done, it’s time for La Paulée!

The 2020 harvest ended Friday August 28 at noon at Lafarge.

As soon as the last grape is cut, all the pickers start celebrating in the vineyard, making crowns out of vine leaves and returning to the domaine being hauled by a tractor. Everyone is singing and honking to let the village know that the harvest is done. The signing doesn’t stop for a few hours usually.

In the evening, La Paulée starts with l’apéritif, then continues with a dinner and can go on until the morning. There are always a few brave ones who don’t go to sleep!

In the Burgundian spirit, to thank the team, some nice bottles are opened. This year, my father decided to share an Aligoté Raisins Dorés as an apéritif, a Meursault 2017, a Fleurie La Joie du Palais 2016, a Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2011 and a Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 1983. Once all of these bottles are empty, people continue partying for a few hours.

La Paulée in Volnay is a bit more modest than the one in New York but everyone is happy and celebrating.

News from the Vineyard - Special Harvest Edition

August 25, 2020
by Justine Puaud & Max Goldberg Liu

NEWS FROM BURGUNDY

Côte de Beaune

This year is historically early for many growers in Burgundy.

Guillaume d’Angerville finished on August 25th which was the start date of his previous earliest harvest - 2003. This is a very different vintage than 2003, however - so far the grapes coming in have been very well balanced with good concentration due to the late summer drought, and are not at all overripe or dramatically low in acidity. Sanitary conditions are excellent as well - there is almost no need for a sorting table.

Thus far, weather conditions have been perfect - beautiful sunny days and cool nights, and growers are crossing their fingers that it continues.

Frédéric and Clothilde Lafarge finished the first day of harvest with a big smile, declaring the quality of the grapes to be amazing and forecasting 2020 as a great vintage. So far, the Lafarges are equally happy with the quality of both the whites and the reds. They should finish the harvest Friday evening and will be celebrating their Paulée with the vendangeurs.

Be sure to check out the video below with Fred Lafarge that our friends Richard and Carla Rza Betts captured the other day. Richard and Carla are in Burgundy this week capturing exclusive content for the Pressoir.wine Club, so be sure to look out for more footage from the harvest.

Beautiful cool harvest weather (Nicolas Rossignol, August 24, 2020)

Rapid fermentation of Clos du Château des Ducs (Clothilde Lafarge, Domaine Lafarge)

Early morning at Domaine des Comtes Lafon in Meursault Charmes (August 23, 2020)

Côte de Nuits

As is usually the case, the Côte de Nuits was generally a little behind the Côte de Beaune in starting the harvest, and the quality is looking to be equally as high.

Véronique Drouhin remarked that her Griotte-Chambertin was quite small in quantity but that the small bunches look magnificent.

Bonnes Mares (Domaine Hudelot-Baillet, August 25, 2020)

La Romanée being picked on August 26, 2020 (Louis-Michel Liger-Belair)

Griotte-Chambertin (Véronique Drouhin, August 22, 2020)

NEWS FROM CHAMPAGNE

2020 is also a historic vintage in Champagne: the earliest harvest on record.

This is the third warm year in a row producing beautifully ripe grapes. Many Champenois are comparing the trio of 2018, 2019, 2020 to the heralded trilogy of 1988, 1989, 1990. There are many similarities in growing conditions, precocity of the harvest, good ripeness, and clean fruit.

Many of the winemakers are finishing picking and pressing Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. Some of the Chardonnay is in but growers in the Côte des Blancs are waiting a bit longer to pick.

Rodolphe Péters of Pierre Péters is proud of how his Chardonnay vines have handled the changing climate: “This brings me to a thought about VERSATILITY, having a look back to the recent history of Champagne. What was the grape variety which used to be harvested the first when the climate was very challenging and cool and harvest was taken place in late September or October? And what is now the latest grape variety to be picked, while we face impacts of the global warming and must manage every year earlier and earlier harvests ? Only one answer in both cases: Chardonnay.”

Our friend Marie-Pascale Do-Dinh is in Champagne this week - we look forward to sharing the footage and photos of her visits with you in the coming weeks.

Pinot Noir from 1er Cru Les Noues in Ecueil at Champagne Frédéric Savart (August 26, 2020)

AR Lenoble is finishing pressing Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Harvest started simultaneously in Krug’s Clos d’Ambonnay and Clos du Mesnil. (Olivier Krug, August 26, 2020)

Chardonnay from the top part of Les Hautes Chèvres (Vincent Laval, August 25, 2020)

News from the Vineyard - Harvest time in Burgundy!

August 18, 2020

By Eléonore Lafarge

The 2020 harvest is around the corner!

Domaine Michel Lafarge, Clos du Château des Ducs, August 17, 2020

The harvest is the most important time of the year for winemakers. It is the result of an entire year of work, taking care of the vineyard to give the best grapes possible. It is always a special time of the year where a lot of different people come together to work but mostly have fun. The key word of harvest in any domaine of Burgundy is conviviality.

However, this year the harvest will feel different for two reasons.

First, because of the COVID-19 crisis, winemakers had to adapt to make sure the pickers will remain safe. Making sure no one has any symptoms, washing every tool very carefully, not getting too close to each other are the new norms. Each person will have his own tools (scissors, buckets, reusable plastic cup…) and not share them with the other pickers. The feeling of sharing that usually glides over Burgundy during the harvest slightly fades away.

Second, 2020 has been a very hot year. The hotness and dryness in April and May made the vines grow very fast. Since the end of July, France has suffered from a heat wave. These very high temperatures result in a very early harvest. Most domaines will start picking between the 18th and 25th of August. An earlier start than 2003! Fortunately, a little rain fell in Burgundy on the weekend, which helped the vineyard.

News from the Vineyard

July 28, 2020

Read the full article from the New York Times here

Like other wine regions, the beautiful and sunny Alsace, producing signature aromatic and sometimes exuberant white wines, is suffering from the double impact of Covid-19 and the US tariffs. The reduced sales that resulted increased the stock of wine and with the precocious harvest in sight, it is time to simply “make space” for the new 2020 grapes at the wineries. Since the demand is extremely low, some producers are forced to distill their precious wines. The whole region of Alsace will send 1.5 million gallons of wine to the distillery. A sad reminder of what happened in 2009 after the economic crisis. The financial and psychological repercussions are particularly challenging in this region, famous for its very charming architecture and rich gastronomy.

Besides a small amount of monetary help from the government for this “distillation crisis”, one can find a positive note, since the distilled wines will help produce useful hand sanitizing gels.

The beautiful town of Colmar