Napa Valley, a few words before our Pressoir.wine THIRST class

by Edouard Bourgeois
July 20, 2021

The sun’s powerful light is key to promoting photosynthesis and its warm rays are another crucial factor to producing healthy grapes around the world. In the historically cold wine regions, wine growers may choose to capture as much sun exposure as possible. They often choose to plant their vineyards with a southern orientation (in the northern hemisphere) and on steep slopes. The space between the rows also plays a role and farming techniques such as deleafing can increase sunlight exposure.

However, in parts of California, especially the famous Napa Valley, the sun may become a dangerous ally.

The world of wine was shocked when terrible news of the Napa wildfires spread last year. But the sadly famous Glass Fire that remained active for 23 days was the beginning of even more disasters to come. Smoke taint, dried up water reservoirs and increased insurance policies deeply impacted the region.

Red wines were more affected by smoke taint because the process to make red involved skin maceration, which is not true for a classic white wine where grapes are directly pressed. The irony is that red wines, and of course the staple “Napa Cab” are close to twice as much profitable than white wines.

Today, the Napa wine growers are taking stock of the situation and thinking about next steps. In last week’s edition of the Pressoir wine “The Press”, we covered the subject of capturing and recycling the CO2 naturally produced during fermentation in wineries.

Another critical topic in California is water. Is irrigation absolutely necessary in a region known for its violent drought? The celebrated winery Diamond Creek of Napa Valley, a pioneer in terms of single vineyards in the region, has embraced dry farming in parts of its vineyards.

Today, waste water from household toilets and drains is being re-used in vineyards after intense treatments. It is even predicted that such recycled water could one day become potable.

Our Pressoir.wine live THIRST class this July 29th will feature exclusive videos filmed by our team while in Napa a few months ago, featuring legendary producers Diamond Creek, Corison, Eisele Vineyards and others. Author Kelli White will share her incredible knowledge of the region and we will discuss important topics such as the evolution of farming, the diversity of terroirs and grape varieties with fascinating insiders’ stories. We hope to see you on screen for this virtual event.

What's Pressoir Cooking?

July 24, 2021
by Justine Puaud

Stuffed Calamari Recipe

Chorizo and squid shine in this classic Mediterranean recipe.

Ingredients

1 pound tomatillos, husk removed and cut in half

1 small white onion, peeled and cut into quarters (or shallots if you prefer)

2 cloves garlic

extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup cilantro leaves, plus a few for garnish

½ cup parsley leaves, plus a few for garnish

½ cup tarragon

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

smoked paprika, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons of cognac

2 cups Bomba rice (rice we usually use for Paella)

3 cups fish stock

12 cleaned squid tubes, all about the same size (I prefer to use small squids for this recipe)

½ pound fresh ground pork

½ pound pork chorizo sausages

Preparation
Clean the squid (ask your fish market to remove the quell, innards, beak and eyes, and peel off the outer skin). Finely chop the tentacles for the stuffing (keep some for the Bomba rice preparation).
Roughly dice the chorizo into small pieces. Heat the oil in a pan over a moderate high heat, add the chorizo, ground pork, chopped tentacles, onion and garlic to the pan and cook for 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat. Add fresh herbs and spices into the preparation.
Now it is time to stuff the squids - spoon the stuffing into the cavity of each squid and secure with wooden tooth picks (be careful not to overfill them).
Use the same pan and deglaze it with cognac. Stir in onion and saute until soft and transparent. Add garlic and cook for another minute. Pour in the tomatoes and bring to a strong simmer, reduce to a steady simmer and leave to cook for 5 minutes.
Place the squids and the tomato sauce in a big cast iron pan and put it in a Big Green Egg for about 40 minutes (or in a 400 degree oven).
Add the Bomba rice and fish stock into a pan. Bring to a simmer and cook 20 minutes or until rice is almost cooked. Add tentacles, fresh chopped parsley and coriander. Et voilà!

Wine pairing

We opened a Grange des Pères white 2015 to accompany the dish. This Roussanne dominant blend was rich, round and shows juicy flavors of stone fruit, honey, & sappy citrus. We made one mistake! We should have opened the wine almost a day before…

News from the Vineyard

Trapping CO2 For a Cleaner Wine Industry

July 14, 2021
by Edouard Bourgeois

The wine industry is not often portrayed as a major pollutant and distractor of earth’s ecological balance. However, even organic, biodynamic and the sometimes polarizing “natural” wine producers cannot be entirely “green”, as Vincent Dauvissat himself reminded me on a recent trip to Chablis. “We all are polluters” he declared. From my own small experience of working in a renowned winery in Beaujolais, I remember the colossal quantities of water we would use to constantly clean the equipment, the price to pay for not using synthetic cleaning chemicals, which can almost seem ironic.

But amazing people follow amazing ideas, like our friend Diana Seysses of Domaine Dujac in Burgundy and Snowden Vineyards in California. Diana was featured in a recent, eye-opening article on SevenFiftyDaily this week where she talks about capturing the CO2 naturally produced by alcoholic fermentation and re-using it. After experiencing the wildfires of California at her family estate and then the historical frost episode of this past April in Burgundy, she found even more motivation to develop the strategy of carbon capture. “During vinification each year, winery buildings are full of pure, clean carbon dioxide—and we just blow it out the windows. I believe the ventilation of our wineries is a wasted opportunity” she explains.

This is a great article where Diana explains her journey in trying to make the process of carbon capture work. The pros and cons of such a process are exposed with raw humility but unbreakable passion.

Read the article on SevenFiftyDaily here

A tank for CO2 trapping and storing

Beach Wine Part 3

June 27, 2021
Daniel Johnnes

Did I save the best for last? The question itself annoys me. What is the best wine? There is no answer. Usually, it’s the wine I’m drinking right now but there are just so many factors that lead one to select “the best” wine. Most often, I believe circumstance has the greatest influence on my wine enjoyment. Circumstances such as location, people, food, mood, knowledge of the producer and more and more. All have an impact on how I will taste and enjoy a wine.

Maybe I was anticipating an extra special moment, because the Chablis was the most mature of the three or was it because of my fondness for the producer, Vincent Dauvissat (the person and style of his wine) or because, this was from one of the best Grand Cru of Chablis. Or was it knowing I was about to grill lobster and the marriage would be harmonious and perfect. All of the above?

The wine was great but no better or worse than my two other amazing white Burgundies. It was still youthful in color for a white wine almost 40 years old. Deep straw, gold with no hints of orange or browning from oxidation. The nose was a panoply of aromas soaring from the glass - stones, oyster, ginger, summer rain followed by a warm rainbow (if you can imagine what that would smell like), a hint of honey. The palate was fully expressive with a texture and hint of sweet fruit and an underlying salinity that jolted my taste buds. Chablis like this forms the most unique, distinctive and interesting expressions of Chardonnay in the world.

And because of this last in my trio of white Burgundies, I reaffirmed my passion and knowledge that Burgundy can produce the greatest dry white wines on the planet.

The lobster was pretty good too.

What's Pressoir Cooking?

Ginger Honey Chicken Skewers

Recipe courtesy of Food Siblings Kitchen

Here is a simple recipe yet perfect crowd pleaser for a summer party in your backyard. Grilling marinated food is one of my favorite things to do. I particularly enjoy the combination of the charred flavor with the accent of citrus and ginger in that dish, and it makes it super fun to pair with wine.

My favorite associations:

Champagne Marie Courtin Resonance Extra-Brut (Delicious Blanc de Noirs with energy and depth)

Occhipinti Il Frappato 2014 (I’ve always liked Sicilian wines and the reds from the Frappato can be very pure and fresh. Occhipinti is certainly a reference and 2014 a terrific vintage)

INGREDIENTS (4-6 servings)

3 medium cloves garlic, minced

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 lbs. of boneless, skinless chicken thighs (or breasts)

1 lemon, zested and juiced

1/2 inch of fresh ginger, grated

1 teaspoon honey

salt and pepper

1 pint cherry tomatoes

1/4 cup fresh basil, finely chopped

1/4 fresh parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

PROCEDURE

Set half the burners on a gas grill to medium heat setting, cover, and preheat for 10

minutes. If using bamboo skewers, set in a large baking dish enough to cover skewers

with water and let soak. While grill preheats, whisk together garlic, oil, lemon zest and

juice, ginger, honey, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Prick chicken all over with a fork,

then cut into 2-inch chunks. Add to marinade and mix to coat. Let sit for about 5

minutes. While chicken marinates, combine basil, parsley, olive oil, vinegar, a large

pinch of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper in the bowl. Set aside.

Thread tomatoes onto soaked bamboo skewers, brush with olive oil, and sprinkle with a

little salt. Thread chicken onto metal (or pre-soaked bamboo) skewers. Make sure to

leave a little room between pieces on the skewers so they cook evenly.

Grill chicken and tomatoes over direct heat until tomatoes are softened and chicken is

lightly charred and cooked through, turning skewers occasionally, about 5 minutes for

tomatoes and 10 minutes for chicken.

Transfer chicken and tomato skewers to a platter and serve with herb drizzle.

Beach Wines Part 2

June 27, 2021
by Daniel Johnnes

With one immensely successful bottle of Coche tucked into my sensory memory, it was time to plan for the Pierre Morey, Batard-Montrachet 2001.

When I had an opportunity to secure 12 bottles of this wine I wasted not more than one second to send my payment. I had first experienced this wine at La Paulée de Meursault in 2018 (see photo). Very proudly seated right across from Pierre and Anne Morey, I was the very happy recipient of multiple treasures they brought to share with the other 700 guests at La Paulée. But this one served from magnum is the wine that made one of the biggest impressions on me that day.

Their parcel of Batard-Montrachet is without a doubt what one would call the tenderloin of this large (almost 12 hectare) Grand Cru vineyard, divided almost evenly between Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. The Morey parcel is just under a half an hectare and is located nearly in the center of the “Climat” on the Puligny side just across the narrow path from Le Montrachet. Who could ask for anything more?

As a result, the Morey Batard is weighty but less so than some Batards lower on the slope on the flatter land. This one, from old vines, is reaching its glorious apogee and will likely hold it for another twenty to thirty years. The aromas soared from my glass expressing a very slight reduction followed by honeysuckle, orange peel, lemon confit and that elusive mineral note. The palate was expansive and textured. It reminded me immediately how to identify a Grand Cru wine: by its length. A Grand Cru from a great producer will always provide a clear window onto its terroir. A Grand Cru terroir will linger on the palate - sometimes for many minutes. This one hung on with deep tingling notes one could equate to a bass instrument that resonated on and on and on. YUM!

Perfect with the skewered and grilled shrimp and scallops.

News from the Vineyard

June 29
by Raj Vaidya

What’s happening in the vineyards in Aÿ?

We’ve spent the last few days in Aÿ, a Grand Cru village renowned for its Pinot Noir at the crossroads of the Vallée de la Marne, Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs. The flowering period is winding down, and a fair bit of unevenness between the stage of fruit set amongst vineyards is noticeable.

I wanted to highlight two interesting examples.

First, a prime example of biodynamic farming with Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon of Louis Roederer. He took us to their vineyard in Aÿ and it has exceptional and even ripening. Jean-Baptiste explains that this is due to the vertical training of these vines (as opposed to the traditional ‘Cordon’, or long lateral cane method). Also, biodynamic farming has made it more consistent in its flowering and thereby its fruit set. The fruit produced from these vines always goes into Roederer’s Cristal Rosé bottling.

The second is a rare example of ungrafted vines in Bollinger’s Clos Saint Jacques, also in Aÿ, it is a walled vineyard within the village. This is unique as it is made up of own-rooted or ungrafted vines, and this causes the flowering and subsequent fruit set to be somewhat precocious. The vines tend to have sap running through them earlier than grafted vines do, and so the fruit set tends to be nearly a week ahead of vineyards elsewhere in the village. These vines partially make up the ungrafted cuvée at Bollinger’s known as Vieilles Vignes Françaises.

Beach Wines Part 1

June 28
By Daniel Johnnes

This year’s beach break was marked by a trio of fantastic white Burgundies.

Truth be told, my wife and I drink more red Burgundy than white. And every time I drink a glorious white like the ones I enjoyed on Fire Island last week, I wonder why that is.

Each revealed why these wines are so special. All made from the same grape and mostly vinified the same way, they could not have been more different from each other. Granted the youngest was 2012 and the oldest was 1983, so that’s a big spread. Mostly this was a major display of “terroir”.

PART ONE

The first was the youngest. It was a Coche-Dury Les Chevalières 2012. Chevalières is on that magical band of lieux-dits (Narvaux, Tillets, Casse-Têtes, Tessons, Rougeots, and then Chevalières) that streches above the Premier Cru vineyards of Perrières, Genevrières, Poruzots, Bouchères, Gouttes d’Or. In the hands of a master like Coche, one could easily mistake this wine for a Premier Cru.

The wine was brilliant light straw gold and had the tell tale signature Coche reduction, even though the Jean-Francois match stick notes have been less pronounced since Raphael took the reins of this estate in 2009. The palate was mouth filling and textured (rich vintage) yet I was impressed by the dimension and tactile nuance. And best of all was the great energy and well balanced acidity binding it all together. The intention was to pair this wine with steamed lobster and drawn butter with lemon but the lobsters missed the boat from the mainland. It was pretty, pretty good with the swordfish steaks nonetheless.

I pleasantly fell asleep with the sounds of the waves crashing on the beach and the brilliant thought that I really don’t drink enough Coche.

News from the Vineyard

June 23, 2021
By Raj Vaidya

Downy mildew in Champagne

The La Fête team has landed in Champagne and will be filming many winemakers for the next 2 weeks.

A series of rainy days and extreme weather has increased the downy mildew pressure in the vineyards, especially in the La Petite Montagne de Reims and in La Montagne de Reims. Yesterday we were with the Paillard brothers, Quentin and Antoine from Champagne Pierre Paillard, and Benoit Lahaye. They have been working non-stop as a result, we are so grateful that they were able to take the time out to meet with us.

Antoine Paillard of Champagne Pierre Paillard in their Bouzy Grand Cru Pinot Noir vineyard “Les Maillerettes”.

Benoit Lahaye also located in Bouzy.

Today is a warmer day and a little more dry which is exactly what is needed! We were in the vineyard with Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon of Roederer who is also worried about this disease.

They are using copper sulphate (also known as Bordeaux mixture) to try and mitigate the spread of mildew. The heavy metal is permitted under the agricultural practice, but not synthetic chemical treatments.

What is downy mildew (mildiou in French)?
Downy mildew, caused by Plasmopara viticola, is a fungal disease that attacks the vines and is potentially very destructive. This fungus can infect all green parts of the vine. Symptoms are usually observed on leaves and grape bunches. A severe infection can cause leaves to fall prematurely, it can reduce yields and the sugar content in the berries, and can cause the remaining bunches to be exposed to sunburn. Total crop loss may occur if severe infection is not managed, especially near flowering. A severe leaf fall can also cause yield loss during the following season due to the inability of the vine to store reserves.

Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, chef de cave of Louis Roederer.

What's Pressoir cooking

June 22, 2021
by Justine Puaud

Summertime Grilled Octopus

Tenderized octopus, char-grilled and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, a squeeze of fresh lemon. Simple, yet deliciously satisfying!

Ingredients for the octopus

• 3 ½ pounds octopus, head and beak removed

• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

• 1 lemon

• Garlic

• old bay seasoning

• shallots

• herbs (thyme and bay leaves)

Fill a large pot 1/2 full with water. Add 2 tablespoons kosher salt, peppercorns, shallots, lemon juice, old bay spices and herbs; bring to a boil over high heat. Dip tentacles into the boiling water 3 times, holding them in the boiling water 2 to 3 seconds each time, until the tentacles curl up. Submerge entire octopus in the boiling water. Bring water back to a boil, reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until octopus is fork-tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove from heat and cool for 30 minutes.

Start your marinade with olive oil, garlic and lemon juice. Leave the octopus overnight in the fridge.

The next day, grill octopus in a traditional BBQ or Big Green Egg until charred on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove it from the heat when the skin is slightly crispy.

Ingredients for pea purée

• 2 cups fresh shelled peas

• smoked bacon

• onions

• chicken broth

• herbs including chives, parsley, coriander and dill

Bring 1 cup water and chicken broth to a boil and covered pot. Add peas and 1/2 tsp. salt; cook until peas are bright green and tender, about 2 minutes. Drain peas through a strainer set over a bowl; reserve cooking liquid.

Add bacon to a large skillet and heat over medium-high. Cook bacon, stirring occasionally, until fat starts to render, about 3 minutes. Add onion and cook, stirring, until softened and lightly browned and bacon is crisp, about 3 minutes more. Transfer bacon and onion to a small bowl. Add cooked peas and herbs to bacon mixture into a blender and get a smooth purée.

I recommend pairing this dish with a white wine with good acidity and souplesse. We decided to treat ourselves and opened a Meursault 2014 from Domaine des Comtes Lafon. The vibrant acidity and freshness in the wine balance with the spiciness and smokiness of the octopus and sweetness in the pea purée.

Bon appétit!

BYO RECAP - POPINA 6/14/21

Raj Vaidya

June 15, 2021

Champagne has been on my mind lately, to say the least…

Max, Peter Liem and I head to Champagne next week to begin building the content for some of our seminars which will be streamed during La Fête du Champagne this October, and needless to say I’m very excited. So we decided to whet my appetite and many others’ with a Champagne themed BYO event at Popina last night, and it was such a blast!

Many bottles were opened, all the bottles were showing great, and some special bottles stood out. A pristine bottle of 1988 Taittinger Comte de Champagne Blanc de Blancs was the wine of the night, almost sappy, with a white truffle note and tremendous salinity. It opened somewhat musty but quickly cleaned up on the nose, and was tremendously long on the palate. A 2008 Georges Laval Cuvée Les Chênes Blanc de Blancs was so special, a rare cuvée of which Vincent Laval makes only about 1500 bottles a year, and from such a precise and elegant vintage. I poured this alongside another 2008, a magnum bottling of Chartogne-Taillet’s Les Couarres, a single vineyard Pinot Noir from Merfy. Not normally bottled in magnum, this was a rare treat and super long on the palate.

A full list of the Champagnes (and a couple of odd stowaways) we tasted below, not exactly in order of serving but close I think. Hope to have you join the next BYO we are hosting at Wu’s Wonton King on Sunday the 27th!

Eric Rodez Ambonnay Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV (2008) Magnum

Eric Rodez Ambonnay Blanc de Blancs Brut 2004

Grognet Spécial Club 2014

Pierre Péters Les Mesnil Blanc de Blancs “Réserve de Oubliée” NV (2016)

Maison Béréche Blanc de Blancs “La Côte” NV

Vincent Couches Brut “Elegance” NV

Vincent Couches Brut “Cuvée ADN” NV

Suenen Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs “Cocluette” 2014

Suenen Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs “Les Robarts” 2014

Robert Moncuit Blanc de Blancs Les Mesnil “Chetillons” 2015

Salon Les Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 1996

André Beaufort “Polisy” 1996

Pierre Péters Les Mesnil Blanc de Blancs “Cuvée Spéciale” 1998

Corbon Brut Blanc de Blancs 1998

Emmanuel Brochet “Cuvée les Hautes Meuniers” 2013

Marie-Noëlle Ledru Ambonnay Brut NV

Ulysses Collin Blanc de Noirs “Maillons” NV (2016)

Marguet Extra Brut Verzenay 2016

Dom Perignon 2010

Louis Roederer “Cuvée Cristal” 2008

Taittinger Blanc de Blancs “Comtes de Champagne” 2002

Taittinger Blanc de Blancs “Comtes de Champagne” 1988

Jacquesson Extra Brut 1996

Bollinger “RD” Extra-Brut 2002

Krug 2004

Krug Rosé NV

La Closerie Extra Brut Rosé “Cuvée Fac-Simile” NV (2015)

Georges Laval Cumiéres “Cuvée Les Chênes” 2008

Chartogne-Taillet Extra Brut “Les Couarres” 2008 Magnum

Savart Blanc de Blancs “Cuvée Haute Couture” 2016

and, just because…

Ultramarine Sparkling 2014 (Sonoma)

Domaine Georges Roumier Bourgogne Rouge 2017 (Burgundy)

News from the vineyard 6/16/2021

June 15, 2021
By Eléonore Lafarge

Summer seems to have finally arrived in Burgundy. It’s now sunny and warm. Thus, despite a complicated beginning of 2021 in the vineyards, the vines are growing well and flowers appeared a few weeks ago, leaving a wonderful smell all over Burgundy.

Winemakers now started the accolage (tying back the vegetative growth) in the vineyards. They do this to make sure that the vines grow vertically which is important.

For biodynamic domaines, the beginning of June is often the time for a silica preparation. This is one of the key biodynamic preparations, with a 500 preparation.

To obtain the silica, quartz crystals are crushed into a powder. A very small amount of silica is diluted with water in a dynamiseur and then sprayed on the vineyard with a copper backpack.

The silica can be described as a “spray of light”. Indeed the preparation is used to intensify the light and photosynthesis in the vineyard. The other effect is to reinforce the health of the vines and make sure they have enough vitality.

 As this biodynamic preparation has to be done in the morning, usually before 8am, winemakers often get rewarded with a nice sunrise!

What's Pressoir Drinking? Yes, more Champagne!

By Jaime Dutton
June 16, 2021

Champagne is on the mind - refreshing, bright, energizing - exactly what I turn to on a hot summer afternoon or a warm spring evening. Everyone is headed out again which feels SO good (and somewhat exhausting!) and I am finding myself consistently in the mood for a great glass of Champagne.

Last week out to dinner, I enjoyed the "‘Ultratradition’ from Laherte Frères. This predominantly Pinot Meunier blend was delicious and enjoyable. I was reminded of the energy and fruit that Meunier brings to a blend and went back to the La Fete Grand Tasting page from 2020 to hear Aurélien share his insights on winemaking and how he approaches his Champagnes, their terroir and the vineyards.

Since I could not make it to the BYO at Popina, I had serious FOMO seeing all that amazing Champagne that you enjoyed together on Monday. To soothe my jealousy , I decided to indulge myself with one of my favorite producers, Chartogne-Taillet, and open a bottle of the Extra Brut “Cuvée Orizeaux”. It was so delicious and bursting with energy, still very vibrant. The richness was balanced with a mineral and saline character that with our grilled halibut and garlic scapes from the garden made for a perfect evening.

Cuvée Orizeaux

Some details:

Harvest 2011

100% Pinot Noir, Selection Massale 1961

Dosage 4gr/L

Disgorged May 2016

What's Pressoir Drinking? (Our first Pressoir.wine dinner at Le Pavillon by Daniel Boulud!)

WHAT'S PRESSOIR DRINKING?

June 4th, 2021
by Raj Vaidya

A deep dive into the Premier Cru Vineyard of Petits Monts (and its neighbours) …

Last night we were delighted to finally host a wine dinner “just like in the before time'“ at Chef Daniel Boulud’s newest restaurant, Le Pavillon at One Vanderbilt.

We started out with a delicious magnum of Champagne Lassaigne, followed by two flights of white Burgundies before moving on to the main event, a vertical of the phenomenal Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Petits Monts from Veronique Drouhin. We sourced these bottles from the domaine some years ago with the intention of showcasing them during a La Paulée dinner but had to reschedule a few times, and finally decided we were too excited to try them to wait any longer. The first flight showed the overall finesse of the cuvée, with the often rich 90 vintage showing greater balance than is typical for such a warm harvest, and the 96 showing great depth and balance despite the higher acid levels of that vintage. It seemed like the harmony and delicacy inherent in the place overshadowed the vintage character, and all four were beautiful.

To offer a little perspective on the place, and the producer via contrast, we finished the evening with three 99s; Drouhin’s Petits Monts, Méo-Camuzet’s Cros Parantoux, situated directly north of Petits Monts (showed a touch more richness and oak, but beautiful and long on the palate) and DRC’s 1er Cru blended cuvée “Duvault Blochet”, which contains DRC’s Petits Monts fruit. A glorious way to return to the wine dinners of yesteryear, and it was so much fun that we’ll be back at Le Pavillon in a month or so to do it all again!

The wines:

CHAMPAGNE JACQUES LASSAIGNE, “Colline Inspirée” Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs NV en magnum

DOMAINE VINCENT DAUVISSAT, Chablis 1er Cru “Séchet” 2014

DOMAINE VINCENT DAUVISSAT, Chablis 1er Cru “Vaillons” 2014

DOMAINE VINCENT DAUVISSAT, Chablis Grand Cru “Les Clos” 2014

DOMAINE ANTOINE JOBARD, Meursault 1er Cru “Genevrières” 2012

DOMAINE PIERRE MOREY, Meursault 1er Cru “Les Perrieres” 2015

DOMAINE MATROT, Meursault 1er Cru “Les Charmes” 2009

MAISON JOSEPH DROUHIN, Vosne Romanée 1er Cru “Les Petits Monts” 2000, 1996, 1993, 1990

MAISON JOSEPH DROUHIN, Vosne Romanée 1er Cru “Les Petits Monts” 1999

DOMAINE MÉO-CAMUZET, Vosne Romanée 1er Cru “Cros Parantoux” 1999

DOMAINE de la ROMANÉE-CONTI, Vosne Romanée 1er Cru “Cuvée Duvault-Blochet” 1999

What's Pressoir Drinking?

June 9, 2021
by Edouard Bourgeois

Domaine de l’Arlot Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru 1993

Recently at Chef Daniel Boulud’s newest Manhattan restaurant, Le Pavillon, I tasted this glorious red Burgundy from Domaine de l’Arlot. This 1993 was made by the well respected Jean-Pierre de Smet, whose winemaking career inspires many in the field.

The domaine's recent history remains marked by his influence. Jean-Pierre ran the domaine for almost two decades. In January 2007, he handed over the direction of the domaine to Christian Seely, who entrusted technical management first to Olivier Leriche, then to Jacques Devauges in August 2011, and later to Géraldine Godot in September 2014.

The celebrated Grand Cru of Romanée-St-Vivant is one of the top vineyards in the world for Pinot Noir. Founded in 1098, the Abbey of Citeaux has made a lengthy contribution to the extension of vines in Burgundy. The monks of Saint-Vivant de Vergy were very much involved in this, so much so that this vineyard in the Côte de Nuits was named after them.

The first vintage of this wine to be produced by Domaine de l'Arlot was 1991.

1993 can be a tricky vintage for red Burgundy, typically marked by strong acidity which can translate to firmness and austerity. However this bottle was not showing that character. Instead, black fruits and just a touch of forest floor aromas defined this incredibly fresh and vivid wine. I would not have guessed that it was an almost 30 year old bottle. Great length and a salivating tension made for a delightful tasting experience.

Bourgogne Vezelay - An Heirloom Gem of the Burgundy Landscape

June 10, 2021
by Edouard Bourgeois

In France for just over a week now, I have rediscovered the charm of the medieval commune of Vezelay.

Part of the Yonne department, south of Chablis and the Sauvignon Blanc AOC of Saint-Bris, Vézelay is a Chardonnay-only AOC that was recently promoted to village-level classification (like Meursault or Chassagne-Montrachet), in 2017. Red wines produced in the region qualify for only the Bourgogne AOC.

It is in the south of the Grand Auxerrois territory which also includes the Irancy and Saint-Bris villages and other regional appellations such as Bourgogne Épineuil and Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse.

Vézelay wine is produced predominantly from Chardonnay grapes grown on limestone rich soils. In total there are just 66.5 hectares (164 acres) under vine. A little Melon de Bourgogne (best known in Muscadet), Pinot Noir and the regional specialty César are also grown, though wines made from these grape varieties are classified as Vin de France.

The vineyards are mostly planted on south facing slopes around the four villages, at varying altitudes of 180 to 300 meters (600 to 1000ft). The continental climate here contributes to the fresh, steely style of the white wines in particular. Most of the wines are produced by a Vézelay based cooperative, Cave Henry. However several smaller domaines make excellent wines. Here is a list of some of the best producers:

Domaine de la Cadette, Les Faverelles, La Croix Montjoie, Aegerter, Camille Thiriet and more…

The picturesque village of Vezelay has not lost its medieval heritage

A protected Roman ruin with the proud edifice of the Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine in the background. The monastery has been one of the major starting points for pilgrims on their way to Camino de Santiago.

What's Pressoir Cooking?

Saumon a l’Oseille

I arrived in France last week and we are staying at my mom’s country home in Northern Burgundy. I love that bucolic atmosphere, far from the concrete jungle of Manhattan. It’s a refreshing feeling to reconnect with nature and I rediscovered the joy of picking my own fruits and vegetables in the orchard. One morning I was sampling some radishes with my son while checking on the growth of the snap peas and lettuces when I stumbled upon a massive bush of sorrel. That tangy herb is a great ingredient for soup or even an omelette but it was made famous by Chefs Pierre & Jean Troisgros in the classic recipe “saumon à l’oseille”. 

So the next morning I picked a handful of those beautiful green leaves and started cooking. The association of the tangy flavor of sorrel and the fattiness of the salmon is excellent. Cream and butter are obviously key ingredients - the recipe calls for 4.5 oz of butter for 2 lbs of salmon...

You can cook the fish “en papillote” in parchment paper but I prefer grilling it over wood charcoal and preparing the sauce on the side. The smoky flavor is fantastic and you get a nice crisp skin while the center of the fish remains juicy and barely cooked. 

As far as wine pairing, it may come as a surprise (since my mom lives close to the Chablis vineyards) but I opened a white Bordeaux that paired beautifully with the dish. The Sauvignon blanc grassy profile matched the sorrel and the wine, being so dry, offered a great contrast to the rich and creamy sauce. 

A nice patch of sorrel (oseille in French)

RECIPE FOR 4-6 PEOPLE

• 2 lbs of salmon filet

• 4.5 oz of butter

• 2.5 oz of shallots

• 7 fl oz of cream

• 7 fl oz of dry white wine

• 4 fl oz of fish stock

• 1 fl oz of dry vermouth

• 1/4 cup packed sorrel

• 1/2 a lemon

• Salt

• Fresh cracked pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

• Mince the shallots and put them in a sauce pan with white wine, fish stock and vermouth. Reduce slowly.

• Add the cream and reduce more.

• Add the sorrel leaves and wait 20 seconds. Remove the pan from the fire and add the butter in small pieces while gently stirring. Don’t use a whisk so the leaves don’t break

• Add a dash of lemon juice, season to taste 

• Grill the salmon on a very hot grill so the skin gets crispy. 

• Pour the sauce in a deep plate. Place the pieces of salmon on top

Bon appétit!

What's Pressoir Drinking?

June 2, 2021
by Justine Puaud

Birthday Wines

Last Saturday, I went to my friend’s place in the West Village. Victor is one of the best cooks I know in New York (please don’t tell my husband). He always says he will cook something casual but every time it ends with a delicious fancy (or not) menu. Victor is from Les Corbières which is a mountain region in the Languedoc-Roussilon. The cuisine of Languedoc-Roussilon is famous for its traditional Cassoulet but being at the border with Spain, it is also a cuisine full of colors, spices and character. Victor decided to make the traditional Arroz de Marisco, a signature Spanish seafood and rice dish.
Check out this recipe.

We realized that we both were turning 30 and wanted to open wines that we love. We started with a Mont Benoit 2015 from Frédéric Savart and followed with a Condrieu Cuvée Les Chaillées de l’Enfer 2016 from Georges Vernay. Drinking those 2 wines made me feel nostalgic but also happy. It reminds me of the bustle of my favorite festivals - La Fête du Champagne and La Tablée. It’s been too long since we celebrated those two great events and I can’t wait for fall to arrive for the 2021 editions. La Fête is the weekend of October 16 and La Tablée is the weekend of November 13. Mark your calendars!

Mont Benoit 2015 Frédéric Savart
I met Fred in 2017 at my first La Fête du Champagne which was in London. I tasted his Mont des Chrétiens and remember telling myself “I’m drinking a beautiful and rich Meursault but from Champagne”. Overall I think Savart’s champagnes are opulent and richly textured. This time we opened the Mont Benoit. This impressive wine is made of 95% Pinot Noir. The wine is fermented and aged in wood, followed by 36 months of lees-aging in bottle. There are notes of brioche and white flowers with crisp apple, which give elegance to the wine.

Condrieu Cuvée Les Chaillées de l’Enfer 2016 Georges Vernay
I noticed that many Americans don’t like Viognier. I don’t know if it is because it’s too rich or too exotic. Personally I love the Viogniers from the Rhône Valley. Mannie Berk from Rare Wine & Co said one day ”If there were ever a Marius Gentaz in Condrieu, it was Georges Vernay.” Well, that sets the tone. Christine Vernay makes remarkably well balanced wines. She presses whole clusters for aromatic complexity, settles the juice and then ferments and ages her Condrieus in barrels, 25% new. The wine ages for 12 to 18 months.

News from the Vineyard

May 25, 2021
by Justine Puaud

Bordeaux - a Viticultural Revolution

News from Bordeaux. They are in the middle of the ‘primeurs’ season, when merchants buy wine and pay the producers, about 2 years before the wines go on the market. They are also experiencing an exciting revolution in the vineyards and in the cellars right now.

Organic and biodynamic wines

Bordeaux has been known as one the highest consumers of pesticides in France. Today, the trend is changing. Over 608 producers of AOC Bordeaux have received organic certification, while 50 producers have converted to biodynamic viticulture. Is there a real awareness around the dangers of the pesticides for the Bordelais or is it a pure marketing effect? I think today there are two different schools of thought in Bordeaux. On the one hand, there are those who decided to follow the notable pioneers of biodynamic and organic wines such as Chateau Pontet-Canet, Chateau Palmer and Paul Barre, who all started to work in biodynamic 20-30 years ago. They realize organic viticulture has an important role to play in the fight against climate change. By having deep-rooted wines on a soil without pesticides, the vines will be more linked to the soil than to the climate. The goal is to minimize the extreme conditions of a deregulated climate by having a strong and healthy soil. This will maintain the freshness in the wines. On the other hand, there are Chateaux who have been terribly affected by the “Bordeaux bashing” and have tons of wine to sell. They changed their marketing strategy and tend to be more “green” in order to “re-gild one’s coat of arms”.

In the vineyard of Château Giscours

In the vineyard of Château Pontet-Canet, pioneer of biodynamic viticulture

Precision viticulture

A number of different precision viticulture techniques have been utilized over the last few years to better monitor and manage the vineyards. Precision viticulture optimizes vineyard performance by maximizing grape yield and quality while minimizing environmental impacts and risk. This is accomplished by measuring local variation in factors that influence grape yield and quality and applying appropriate viticulture management practices. Some renowned Grands Crus Classés are using those techniques to improve grape quality. At Château Giscours in Margaux they started to pick not parcel by parcel, but even vine by vine! At Château Lafite, they encourage biodiversity by creating ‘green corridors’ (planting hedges and trees) that will imbue the grapes and therefore wines with freshness.

Introducing new grape varieties

Some grape varieties, such as Merlot, are threatened by viruses such as ‘Court-noué’ or Black-rot that cause a drop in yield per hectare and a loss of longevity of the vine. When we know it takes five years for a new vine to enter into production, we have a small idea of the economic losses generated. The scientists from the I.N.A.O. (a public body responsible for setting out and controlling the regulations for the production of AOC and AOVDQS wines) are looking into foreign varieties which are known for their potential in the face of heat and drought. They recently approved 6 grape varieties. There are 4 reds - Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan, and Touriga Nacional and 2 whites - Alvarinho and Liliorila. All are described as "well-adapted to alleviate hydric stress associated with temperature increases and shorter growing cycles."

Are we moving towards a new style of Bordeaux wine?

Overall, with the impact of the climate change and the use of those new viticultural techniques, Bordeaux wines are becoming much fresher and more expressive of the vineyard. I personally think that the new style only touch the Grand Cru Classés Châteaux, who had no choice but to reinvent themselves. There are old pioneers who have been making delicious and fresh Bordeaux wines for the past decades. Maybe those winemakers were not interesting enough to critics 10 years ago as they were called “untraditional”.
I am thinking particularly about 2 Châteaux:

• Château Saint Saturnin, also named the “outsider Médoc”. Adrien Tramier is one of those rare wine producers in Bordeaux who really does seem to be making wine for himself rather than for the wine critics. He doesn’t use oak and keeps the fermenting juice on the skins for months. His wines are frank, fresh and full of charm.

• Chateau Bel Air Marquis d'Aligre in Margaux. Some people says this Margaux comes from the past, others says it comes from the future. Jean-Pierre Boyer doesn’t use new oak barrels, only large cement cuves. After a six-month passage in old barrels, the wine spends 2-3 years in cement vats before bottling and release. His wines are delicate and complex.

That being said, will you give a second chance to Bordeaux?

What's Pressoir Drinking?

May 27, 2021
by Raj Vaidya

A special night benefiting the NAACP Legal and Educational Defense Fund

Last night at Popina, one of our Club Members and his friend hosted a dinner for eight, won in a charity auction we hosted last year that benefited the NAACP Legal and Educational Defense Fund.

The line up included a vertical of Vogüé Bonnes Mares, Pierre Morey Meursault les Perrières and some great Champagnes. Despite a slight scare with a quick hail storm that took out a few Zaltos and made us a tad damp, we rallied and managed to pull of a truly beautiful evening. Gautam, our host, chose the 2000 Meursault Perrières as his favorite; funky and earthy on the nose yet saline and pristine on the palate. One of his guests, Mike, had a strong affinity for the delicious bottle of 2002 de Vogüé, a stellar and somewhat brooding bottle with a tremendous finish. My personal favorite was the magnum of 2001 Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet, the most expansive and broad white we tasted, though still maintaining some subtlety and finesse. But the kicker and many others’ favorite was the Vosne-Romanée Brulées magnum from Liger-Belair, a super rare bottling that the vigneron doesn’t typically sell commercially, which was truly outstanding.

Pierre Paillard Bouzy Grand Cru “Oenotheque” 1996 in magnum
Salon Blanc de Blancs “Les Mesnil” 2007, 1997, 1996
Domaine Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru “Perriéres” 2010, 2009, 2000
Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2001 in magnum
Domaine Comtes Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2008, 2002, 1995
Domaine des Comtes Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru “Brulées” 2006 in magnum
Domaine des Comtes Liger-Belair Echezeaux Grand Cru 2006 in magnum
Bollinger RD 1988 in magnum