What's Pressoir Drinking?

September 29, 2021

by Raj Vaidya

A fun night with Pressoir.wine Cabaret

Our first Pressoir.wine Caberet was a smashing success last week, thanks to all who were able to join us!  Edouard Bourgeois outdid himself yet again, this time not only showcasing his expertise in wine and food pairing with cuisine by Special Club in Greenwich Village but pairing these rare and special jeroboams and magnums with his own fabulous singing voice and deft piano skills.

The wines

Champagne Chartogne-Taillet, cuvée Sainte Anne Brut NV (jeroboam)

Champagne Michel Gonet, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2002 (jeroboam)

Domaine Jean-Marc Roulot, Meursault 2018 (jeroboam)

Domaine David Duband, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2006 (magnum)

Domaine David Duband, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2009 (magnum)

Domaine David Duband, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2010 (magnum)

Domaine Thierry Matrot, Meursault Blagny AOP Premier Cru 1998 (magnum)

Domaine Louis Michel Fils, Grenouilles Chablis Grand Cru 2006 (magnum)

Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard, Meursault Les Tillets 2009 (magnum)

Domaine Génot-Boulanger, Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2010 (magnum)

Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne Le Chapitre 2013 (magnum)

Johnnes Company, Gevrey Chambertin 2007 (magnum)

Domaine Alain Graillot, Hermitage 2009 (magnum)

Paul Jaboulet Ainé, Domaine de Thalabert, Crozes-Hermitage 1995 (magnum)

And equally important, the songs such as Amsterdam, La Boheme, Georgia On My Mind, Easy, Autumn Leaves, Tiny Dancer, Brown Sugar, New York State of Mind…

What's Pressoir Drinking

by Daniel Johnnes
September 29, 2021

The advantage of having a cellar of wine that I’ve been collecting over a few decades is that it gives me the ability to revisit wines and see how they evolve over time.

This past week I revisit one of my favorite white Burgundies of recent years: Meursault Rougeot 2005 from Coche-Dury. I’ve been known to call that wine the best village level white Burgundy ever made. Yes, I can veer towards hyperbole sometimes when I get excited about a wine. But I really did believe it when I made that statement.

The first time I tasted that wine, maybe in 2009, the image that came to mind was that of a train locomotive. Not just any locomotive but that of the TGV you see in France screaming along at 250-300 km/hr. There seemed to be so much energy in this wine I could sense a current of electricity coursing through my entire body.

2005 was a rich, ripe vintage and many white and reds have a fleshy, weighty character. Coche was able to harness the power of this wine and give it a streamlined balance and elegance. Like a race horse, ready to bolt.

Well, the wine is now 16 years old and still retains the power and depth of its youth but is now displaying a more stayed maturity. The energy sparks have become more smooth and subtle. The palate has filled out with great texture. What remains the same is the depth of flavor and length one would expect from a Premier or even Grand Cru wine.

This remains in my mind, the greatest village level white Burgundy ever made. Hyperbole or not, it is a great wine!

What's Pressoir Cooking? Gazpacho

September 29, 2021

by Jaime Dutton

A simple pleasure of summer is a cold glass of gazpacho, but I like to stretch that enjoyment into early fall for as long as I can with the last of the late harvest tomatoes that come off the vines. Settling into our year living in Madrid, I realize that the amount of gazpacho consumed here is astounding. It’s everywhere - bars, cafes, super markets, gas stations, and it is always delicious. A satisfying and healthy sip of vegetables, like the original juice diet before it was a thing - well maybe not, as there is the addition of bread and olive oil.

Enjoy anytime, or at the start of a meal, paired with a bright verdejo or a Blanc de Blancs Champagne, to stand up to all the acidity from the vinegar and tomatoes.

Recipe:

2 lbs ripe tomatoes, cored and chunked (I don’t mind the seeds and skin on, but if you want to take the time, you can get rid of both)

1 small green pepper, seeded and chunked

1 med/large cucumber, seeded, peeled and chunked

1 small sweet onion, chunked

1 clove garlic

1/4 tsp cumin

1 tsp sherry vinegar

pinch of salt

1/3 cup olive oil

1/2 stale baguette soaked in 1/2 cup water or more as needed so that it is soft

Put everything in a large bowl and toss. Blend well in batches until smooth, add a little water if needs to be thinned out. Combine into a large serving bowl and taste. Chill in the fridge for flavors to meld for at least a few hours before serving.

Garnish with chopped green pepper, onion, red pepper, croutons, etc.

Recap: a delightful dinner at Houseman featuring wines from the Côte de Beaune

by Max Goldberg Liu
September 23, 2021

It was a warm summer evening last Tuesday when we gathered at Houseman on Greenwich St. close to our office for a dinner around the wines of the Côte de Beaune. With one of the larger groups we’ve hosted in a while, it was an ultra-convivial atmosphere at the table.

After starting with a magnum of Delamotte Blanc de Blancs, we dug into the wines:

Flight 1:

Domaine Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet 2017
Domaine de la Pousse d’Or, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret 2018
Domaine Génot-Boulanger, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 2015

Paired with: Grilled bluefin, roasted peppers, herbs

The Génot Folatières was the star of the show, although the Sauzet held its own despite its more humble appellation. Chef Ned Baldwin is also a fisherman, and his skill with a rod and in the kitchen were both on display with this dish featuring beautiful bluefin tuna that he caught himself.

Flight 2:

Olivier Leflaive, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot 2017
Domaine Lamy-Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 2016
Domaine Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 2011

Paired with: Medallions of muraski potato, vegan miso butter, thinly sliced scallion, fried and chopped cashews, cilantro, gochugaru oil

The wines of flight 2 were a bit richer, as expected with Chassagne-Montrachet, and were an unexpectedly great pairing with this creative (and vegan!) dish showcasing Muraski potato, a Japanese variety of sweet potato with a distinct nutty flavor. We all loved it.

Flight 3:

Domaine de Montille, Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds 2017
Bouchard Père & Fils, Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets “Ancienne Cuvée Carnot” 2012
Domaine Génot-Boulanger, Pommard 1er Cru Clos Blanc 2017
Domaine de Montille, Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles 2012

Paired with: Lightly smoked duck breast, roasted plum, cippolini onion, granola, plum gastrique

Onto the reds: all four showed very well - both Volnays showcased the village’s trademark elegance and silkiness, while the light color and high-toned aromatics of the Génot Pommard Clos Blanc highlighted the fact that Pommard isn’t always a burly brute of a wine.

Flight 4:

Olivier Leflaive, Meursault 1er Cru Le Poruzot 2017
Maison Louis Jadot, Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 2017
Domaine Ballot-Millot, Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 2017

Paired with a selection of cheeses from Anne Saxelby

As we often like to do, we finished with some whites, in this case a trio of Meursault 1er Crus from 2017. All three were knockouts (the Perrières most of all, showing why it can be considered a Premier Cru Plus…), and were a great way to end the meal with some perfectly aged cheeses from affineuse de fromage Anne Saxelby.

We greatly enjoyed this tour of the Côte de Beaune - stay tuned for the corresponding tour of the Côte de Nuits, to be announced soon!

News from the Vineyard

by Edouard Bourgeois
September 23, 2021

If, like me, you follow producers such as Domaine Lafarge, Jean-Marc Roulot or Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg, you may have noticed that the crucial time of harvest has arrived.

Among the first to harvest was Domaine Simon Bize on September 12. Domaine Lafarge and their neighbor Marquis d’Angerville both started picking beautiful, small and concentrated clusters of Pinot Noir on Monday. Dominique Lafon picked his first grapes in Volnay last Friday, The Mugneret-Gibourgs started yesterday. Burgundy winemakers are firing on all cylinders.

2021 was marked by a historic episode of spring frost, destroying mostly Chardonnay vines and seriously impacting the production of the famous whites of the Cote de Beaune. Pinot Noir were also affected but to a lesser extent. Anthony Hanson, who writes for Jancis Robinson, notes in an early July article: “The frosts affected Chardonnays in strange ways. Domaine Blain-Gagnard in Chassagne-Montrachet report that they may have lost 65% of a normal crop in the Premiers Crus La Boudriotte and Cailleret, where La Grande Montagne (higher up the hill) is 90% affected. Their Grands Crus and village-level wines were less damaged. Informally, I gathered that Domaine Leflaive may be looking to produce 40% of a normal crop”

Summer was overall rainy and humid, a situation far from ideal, although the water tables needed to be replenished after a very dry spring. Rot pressure is certainly the main concern for vignerons and the sorting tables are in full swing.

Good luck to our vigneron friends!

News from the Vineyard

September 15, 2021
By Edouard Bourgeois

After seeing a recent post from the always informative and beautiful Instagram account of Domaine Lafarge, I wanted to share a few thoughts on the magic of fermentation. In the social post, Clothilde Lafarge shows pictures describing the making of “a pied de cuve”. The French expression translates to “foot of tank” and is basically the winemaking equivalent of a sourdough starter to make bread. The idea is to cultivate local yeasts also referred to as indigenous yeasts, naturally present in the environment of the winery and the vineyard. Without yeasts, the alcoholic fermentation cannot occur and wine cannot be made. It is then essential to pay attention to the quality of these yeasts and their origin. Terroir? Did you say terroir?

The process aims to build a population of viable (alive yeast) and vital (strong) elements in the wild yeast culture in a small volume of wine. This helps the winemaker to complete a clean fermentation (low volatility and reduction, without spoilage yeast or bacteria) that successfully consumes all of the sugars leaving a dry wine.

The process involves picking a small amount of grapes a few days to a week before all of the grapes are going to be picked. The grapes are crushed and allowed to start fermenting. This builds the population of the native yeasts that were present on the grapes. This culture is then added to the rest of the grapes when they are picked.

Using a Pied de Cuve helps start a fermentation quickly, and, through its production of carbon dioxide, to protect the wine or bunches from oxygen exposure and potential production of volatility.

The Pied de Cuve is often built up by adding more fresh juice/grapes to double the volume when the yeast needs more food. This may be undertaken several times. Doing this increases the population of yeast to ensure there are enough to complete the fermentation of the main wine.

Like all things wine, there are thousands of different options for preparing a Pied de Cuve. Using whole bunches, just berries, starting the Pied de Cuve in the winery or in the vineyard, or even adding wild flowers to introduce the native yeast present on those flowers into the Pied de Cuve.ing of Pied de Cuve

Must in fermentation. The CO2 is a byproduct of alcoholic fermentation and forms this foam

What's Pressoir Cooking?

September 15, 2021
by Justine Puaud

Persia on a plate

Iranian cooking is heir to no less than two and a half thousand years of saffron and rosewater scented history. The foods of the courts of ancient Persia (as Iran was called until the 1930s) included perfumed stews flavored with cinnamon, mint, elaborate stuffed fruits and vegetables, and tender roasted meats — dishes that have influenced the cooking of countries as far-flung as India and Morocco. In many ways, Persian food is the original mother cuisine.

We went up to Vermont for the Labor Day weekend to celebrate my friend’s 30th birthday. My husband was the chef of the weekend and asked him to pick any recipe he would like to eat - knowing we were opening nice Rhone Valley and Bordeaux wines. He wanted to eat lamb shanks. In France, we usually eat lamb shanks with rosemary and red wine sauce or even in a cassoulet. But this time, it was all about spices and herbs.

Here is the traditional recipe for about 4 people.

Ingredients

4 meaty lamb shanks (5 pounds)
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon grated cardamon
1 teaspoon ground dried rosebuds (optional)
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon turmeric
vegetable oil
1/4 teaspoon crumbled saffron
Juice of 2 limes
3 teaspoons rosewater
1 large onion (roughly chopped)
the zest of 1 fresh lime and 1 orange
thyme sprigs and fresh bay leaves
6 cups hot chicken broth
2 tablespoons of chopped parsley, mint and dill for garnish

Instructions

Step 1 - Trim any excess fat from lamb shanks and season with salt. Mix together cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamon, rosebud, black pepper and turmeric. Sprinkle over lamb shanks and rub into the meat. Refrigerate overnight and then bring to room temperature.

Step 2 - Place a Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add oil (1/2 inch). When oil is hot, add the shanks and fry until nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Remove and set aside.

Step 3 - Put saffron in a bowl with lime juice, rosewater and 1/2 cup of chicken broth. Steep for about 10 minutes. Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Step 4 - Remove carefully 2 tablespoons oil from the Dutch oven. Add chopped onion and cook over medium heat (8-10 minutes). Season it with salt, lime zest, orange zest, thyme and bay leaves. Stir in saffron mixture. Lay in the lamb shanks and add the rest of the broth. Bring to boil, then turn off heat and cover pot.

Step 5 - Transfer Dutch oven to oven and bake for about 1.5 hours. Cook until the meat falls from the bone. Strain braising juices through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, pressing with wooden spoon and obtain all the liquid. Skim fat. Reheat strained juices and pour over lamb shanks. Combine parsley, mint and reserve orange zest and sprinkle over top.

Final step - Serve in low, wide soup plates. Accompany with couscous and grilled Mediterranean vegetables ( pepper, tomatoes, zucchini)

Wine pairing: I took the picture with the bottle of Rostaing before opening it. I was so excited to drink this wine but it was corked.. Fortunately we had other nice wines to open. I am never disappointed with Léoville Las Cases. This 1998 was spectacular. Those 23 years allowed the wine to soften and open its perfume. Regarding Clos de la Marechale, I am always nervous to open Mugnier’s wines. You need to be extremely patient with his wines. I recently had 2008 and it was not ready. 2004 is an important vintage. Clos de la Maréchale returned to the domaine after a 53-year farming contract with Faiveley ended. Very charming palate with nothing in excess, lightly sandy tannin in evidence.

Wine and Music

September 8, 2021
by Edouard Bourgeois

I think it’s safe to say that I’ve been actively playing piano for as long as I’ve been enjoying wine. I should also specify that I grew up in France so the fact that I was around 12 when this started can easily be explained. It started with an obsession for Rock’n’Roll and its roaring Boogie-Woogie parent that I would play at night while my parents were trying to sleep. I was painfully hammering the piano keys, convinced to sound just like Jerry Lee Lewis, Little Richard and other Rock’n’Roll pioneers. It was around the same time that my dad, at the dinner table, introduced me to the finesse of Volnay or the delicate bubbles of Champagne from my home region.

My dad would ask “Tonight we have guests, Edouard. You’re gonna play something right?”. I would greet my parents’ friends at the door with pride. At one point of the night, my dad would introduce me and say: “Edouard, why don’t you play something?” I would hop behind the piano in a heartbeat and start playing for the crowd. I would get rewarded with the right to sip on whatever wine was served that night from my family’s cellar. Everyone was happy.

Ever since, I have always found an intimate relationship between the juice and the tune. I have experienced the same range of emotions from listening to Thelonious Monk and sipping on a 20 year old pristine bottle of Beaujolais. Those two, by the way, make for an exquisite wine and music pairing. If Beyoncé gets drunk in love, I can certainly relate when it comes to feeling a buzz with music.

However, many factors will determine the experience of wine drinking and music listening, two activities I love to intertwine in the same room. Creating a coherent and meaningful moment is key to maximizing the experience. Would you really enjoy a complex and rich 1990’s Batard-Montrachet if it was served too warm, in a red Solo Cup while watching the Super Bowl? Would you really enjoy listening to La Traviata if it was played out of your iPhone 3 speaker while attending a screaming toddler birthday party? NO. I like a cold Pilsner on a hot day after a bicycle ride. I like listening to Led Zeppelin’s “Going to California” while cruising down Big Sur in a convertible. It doesn’t hit the same if the situation is not right.

I will be playing piano and singing at Special Club, the room downstairs from Niche Niche, which has been on my radar for a while. It has that natural old school Jazz Club feel where you could easily picture a bunch of mobsters and their ostentatious entourage storm in to sip on shiny Champagne bottles. We are not going for that kind of party though. Instead, we have selected many large and festive bottles of our favorite wines from top producers to be shared across the room while I play my favorite tunes.  

I have been wanting to do this for a while. Now it’s happening, and I can’t wait to see you there.

From the Vineyards - Labor Day Weekend in Champagne

September 9, 2021
by Jaime Dutton

This year’s Labor Day weekend was not like in the past. Instead of soaking in the sunshine on the last beach days of summer on the Cape, pulling in stripers from the beach, sipping Rosé and eating the all fresh veggies from our summer garden with friends and family, I went to Champagne! I met Daniel in Reims where we spent 3 days at Chef Arnaud Lallement’s L’Assiette Champenoise, visiting our Champenois friends as we gear up for La Fête du Champagne.

Our time was packed with visits, lunches and dinners where we connected with the producers to hear about the summer and the challenges that they faced this past growing season, as well as taste some of the 2016 and 2017 wines. Harvest will begin for most sometime between September 16 - 26 depending on their location, but most are holding out a bit, waiting for the ripening of the fruit on the vines. It is no secret that 2021 is one of the most challenging vintages that many of them have ever faced, likely one of the smallest crops that they will harvest, yet still, we were met with optimism, warmth and smiles.

Upon realizing that we were not going to be able to see all of our Champenois friends in the 3 days we were in Champagne, we decided, with Peter Liem, to host a cocktail gathering on the beautiful terrace of Le Royal Champagne in Champillon overlooking the vineyards at sunset. It was a beautiful evening where we shared amazing magnums of Champagne and friendship. We wanted to toast them and thank the producers for their support and participation in La Fete 2021. As one of the producers kindly told us, it was the type of evening that only La Fête du Champagne knows how to organize.

La Fête du Champagne’s vision from the outset, as created by Peter and Daniel in 2014, is unique in that it strives to bring together and showcase all of Champagne. From all corners of the region, different philosophies and approaches in the vineyards and cellars, the smallest growers and the larger houses. They all fervently believe in what they do, with a drive for quality and passion for excellence.

News from the Vineyard in Champagne

by Edouard Bourgeois

September 2, 2021

Imagine having to remove half of your vines in order to keep making the wine you love? Although it is still unclear, the vignerons of Champagne may be required to do so by law, in order to meet the production specifications (Cahier des Charges) of the Champagne appellation.

While our La Fete du Champagne team is working on building this upcoming October festival, we are interviewing the participating growers to build our audio guide of the Grand Tasting. In one of these interviews with Benoit and Melanie Tarlant on zoom, I couldn’t help but notice the red logo displaying bold letters #NOVSL on Benoit’s tee-shirt. VSL is the acronym for “Vigne Semi Large” and designates a pruning system where vines are planted with a height of over 2 meters high and an increased space between the rows. The Champagne region is known for its high density of plantation with some vineyards reaching as much as 12,000 vines per hectare. Adopting the VSL would mean reducing that density of plantation to 3,800 vines per hectare.

In an area where tradition is so rooted in the culture and the commercial messaging, change is not always seen with a good eye and protests against VSL started to erupt on social media, leading to petitions. Although, the idea of reducing the plantation density is not new in Champagne. A number of larger Champagne houses have pushed the project since the 80’s. VSL’s detractors like the Tarlants denounce the industrialization this would cause in the region. If it is certainly easier to work in a vineyard where rows are wide enough to use a regular tractor, that also means the yield would be much lower. About 2,400 kgs of grapes per hectare under VSL would mean about 18% less than in a “normal” year in a vineyard planted traditionally. This also raises the question of machine harvesting, a practice that is strictly forbidden in Champagne where producers never cease to proudly remind their clients the magic words “vendangé a la main”, meaning harvested by hand.

What are the pros of the VSL project? The first idea is once again to make it easier to work with tractors, reducing labor costs by almost half. It is also believed that it would reduce the risk of spring frost thanks to better air circulation, reduce the use of herbicides since ploughing would be easier and finally offer a better response to climate changes. This last point is probably what divides producers the most. One of the strongest arguments against it is that VSL facilitates sun burns on the grapes due to less leaf cover.  

It will be interesting to see what the vineyards of Champagne, classified in the UNESCO World Heritage, will look like in 10 or 15 years.

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it?

Vines planted under VSL allow for a more ergonomic work position

The classic view of the Moulin de Verzenay surrounded by vineyards planted in high density

What's Pressoir Drinking? ( Club Member BYO)

August 30, 2020

by Justine Puaud & Max Goldberg Liu

We had a lovely Club Members’ BYO Dinner this past Friday at Wu’s Wonton King. It was a great way to finish the week and mingle at summer’s end. Wu’s Wonton King is a unique BYO dining experience. We were surrounded by some wine aficionados, birthday parties and even a bachelorette party. Everyone met there for the delicious Peking duck, Dungeness crab, and golden fried rice, all of which pair surprisingly well with wine, especially Burgundy. Can’t wait for the next one!

A list of all the bottles we enjoyed:

Château Léoville Poyferré Saint-Julien 2000
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2010
Domaine Trapet, Chambertin Grand Cru 2012
Domaine Michel Gros, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas monopole 2018
Domaine Jean-Marie Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos-Saint-Jacques 2011
Domaine Matrot, Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 2010
Domaine Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet 2005
Stéphane Bernaudeau, Vin de France Les Onglés 2018
Domaine Jean-Marc Roulot, Meursault “Vireuils” 2016
Champagne Louis Roederer, Brut Premier
Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet, Puligny-Montrachet 2017
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Vouvray 2005
Azienda Agricola Sergio Arcuri, Il Marinetto Rosato

Justine - Château Léoville Poyferré Saint-Julien 2000

I am glad Laurent brought a Bordeaux and more precisely (in my opinion) one of the best Saint-Julien (along with Leoville-Barton) at the dinner. Let’s put an end to the Bordeaux bashing. This 2000 Léoville Poyferré had a rounded, opulent texture with smooth tannins. There was a wonderful balance of dense black fruit and nice aromatic palate. When I open a Bordeaux, I always ask myself “Is it the right time? Will the wine be ready?” This 21 year old wine was enjoyable and ready to drink. Though I’m sure you can wait another decade to see how the wine can evolve…

Max - Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2010

I was so excited when this appeared on the table - a great vineyard, one of the best producers in Burgundy, and a superb vintage, all of which promised a great wine, and it did not disappoint! Ethereal aromas of red berries, stone, and earth gave way to a sappy mid-palate and beautifully integrated tannins. The wine was barely showing its 11 years and should age wonderfully for decades to come, but it was certainly quite enjoyable right now. Thanks David for bringing this superb bottle!

A Tribute to Becky Wasserman

We sadly lost Becky Wasserman this week.

The diminutive, 4’9” Becky, as she was known to the world, was a giant to all who knew her.

She was a trailblazer as a young woman in the late 60's seeking to find a place for herself in Burgundy, a place of tradition and slow to embrace change. Certainly as a woman, she had her share of challenges in a field dominated by men. She was courageous and tenacious and developed lifelong relationships which morphed into lifelong friendships with some of the most talented and today, most famous winemakers in Burgundy.

With her encouragement and help, they started to estate bottle their wines and develop their own clientele, breaking from the traditional negociant model.

Later in life, Becky became a beacon and a mentor to scores of young people enthusiastic to learn about Burgundy.

She was a warm and comforting person to talk to who always inspired confidence and joy.

I/we will miss her greatly.

- Daniel

I had the pleasure of dining with Becky and her husband Russell at their home in Bouilland three times, and it was always a highlight of the trip. Bouilland is a tiny village (hamlet is probably a better word) in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, that is around 15 minutes up the road from Savigny-lès-Beaune. We would always be greeted with a glass of Champagne from one of Becky’s producers, often Pierre Gerbais, while Russell was finishing whatever amazing dish he was cooking in the kitchen. Becky was so generous in opening great wines from their cellar, including once a superb and rare René Engel, Vosne-Romanée 2002 (what is now Domaine d’Eugénie after its purchase by François Pinault). Dining at their table was always a reminder of Becky’s incredible roster of growers she represents - Mugnier, Lafarge, Lafon, Bize, Pataille… the list goes on and on. At the end of the meal, Russell would inevitably pull out a number of bottles from his incredible collection of digestifs and we would go to town on a 3L bottle of ancient Calvados… incredible memories with incredible people. Becky, thank you for your hospitality and your contributions to Burgundy and the world of wine. You will be missed.

- Max

My favorite thing about sitting at Becky’s table is a little hard to pin down. Of course, there was always a great bottle of wine or seven. Russell’s delicious and soul satisfying cooking. Lots of good cheer and conversation, and not only of the nostalgic variety, though there were always great memories shared. It certainly was those moments in between courses or just after dinner when I’d move over to a chair right next to her and get her talking about the good old days in Burgundy. Becky was as much a historian as she was a merchant or agent. She had a magical way of weaving these memories together via the most hilarious anecdotes about all the great winemakers like Aubert de Villaine and Michel Lafarge, and yet managed to convey how meaningful these people and memories were to her. A rule of thumb when visiting Bouilland was to engage the services of a taxi for the evening, to ensure that we could drink heavily without having to drive back to Beaune or wherever we were staying. Yet these dinners always fed the soul so heartily that I never look back on any of them with any cloudy memories or hazy hungover thoughts. Somehow spending time at that table always left a clear mark on my mind, and a wonderful memory.

Daniel and I were lucky to be able to sit at her table with her and Paul Wasserman earlier this summer, a quick visit in the late afternoon. We had no idea it would be the last time we’d get to see her, but it seemed important that we see her. We shared a glass of wine and a couple of laughs, and she seemed pretty content and had her usual bright beaming smile. It is the way I will remember her always.

-Raj

Please take a moment to watch and listen to Becky during this interview and lunch we had at her home in Bouilland in early 2018 which we recorded for a seminar presented at La Paulée de San Francisco that year.

What's Pressoir Cooking?

Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb AND Traditional Provencal Ratatouille

Recipes largely inspired by Serious Eats

Edouard Bourgeois
August 17, 2021

Love it or hate it, lamb meat certainly polarizes meat eaters with its particular flavor that some consider too gamey, or “lamby”. I love lamb and this preparation is a recipe I learned while in culinary school back in the early 2000’s.

The idea simply consists of making a crust that will gently infuse through the meat while roasting in the oven or grilled in a covered barbecue. That crust is easy to make and is a mix of bread crumbs, butter, herbs, mustard, salt and pepper. It takes a few tries to master the perfect ratio between the butter and the breadcrumbs so the crust is neither too dry nor too fatty but the result is delicious.

I like to make a simple garnish that is vegetable based, with bright flavors of summer to contrast the rich meat preparation. For that, nothing is more appropriate than the classic ratatouille.

FOR THE LAMB:

• 1 cup fresh bread crumbs

• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

• 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh mint

• 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary

• 1 teaspoon salt, divided

• 1 teaspoon black pepper, divided

• 1 stick butter, room temperature

• 2 frenched 7-10 rib racks of lamb, trimmed of all but a thin layer of fat, about 1.5 - 2 pounds each

• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

DIRECTIONS:

• Mix the bread crumbs, parsley, mint, rosemary, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and soft butter (not melted) together in a small bowl until homogeneous.

• Spread that paste between 2 sheets of baking paper to form a crust 1/4 inch thick.

• Store it in the freezer, still with the baking paper overnight. The next day, take out the crust, now solidified and cut out a piece that match the shape of the lamb rack

• Let the lamb come to room temperature while preparing the grill. Light one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and arrange the coals on one side of the charcoal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate. Season the racks liberally with salt and pepper. Place the lamb fat side down close to but not directly over the coals. Cover and grill until well browned, about 8 minutes, rotating 180 degrees half way through. Remove racks from the grill and place fat side up on a platter or cutting board.

• Spread the mustard over the fat side of the lamb. Carefully press the breadcrumb mixture into the mustard on each rack.

• Place the racks back on the grill, fat side up, close to, but not directly over the coals. Continue to cook until an instant read thermometer registers 130 degrees when inserted into the side of the rack, another 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the grill and let rest uncovered for 10 minutes. Cut between each rib into chops and serve.

FOR THE RATATOUILLE:

• 3 cups 1/4-inch diced summer squash, such as zucchini and yellow squash (about 4 small or 2 medium squash)

• 3 cups 1/4-inch diced Italian eggplant (about 1 medium eggplant)

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 3/4 cup (12 tablespoons) extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more as needed

• 3 cups 1/4-inch diced yellow onion (about 3 medium onions)

• 6 medium cloves garlic, minced (about 2 tablespoons)

• 3 cups 1/4-inch diced red and yellow bell pepper (about 4 large peppers)

• 2 cups pureed canned whole tomatoes, with their juices, from 1 (28-ounce) can (see note)

• 1 bouquet garni (herb bundle), made from fresh herbs such as thyme, parsley, and basil, tied together with butcher's twine (see note)

• Chopped fresh parsley leaves and tender stems, for garnish (optional)

DIRECTIONS:

• Place summer squash in a wire mesh strainer set over a bowl; place eggplant in a second wire mesh strainer and set over a second bowl. Toss both with a liberal amount of kosher salt and let stand to drain at least 15 minutes and up to 1 hour. Discard any liquid that collects in the bowls.

• In a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and garlic, season with salt, and cook, stirring, until softened, about 6 minutes. Scrape onion and garlic onto a rimmed baking sheet and spread in an even layer to cool for 3 minutes. Transfer onion and garlic to a large pot.

• Meanwhile, add 3 more tablespoons olive oil to skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add bell pepper, season with salt, and cook, stirring, until softened, about 7 minutes. Scrape bell pepper onto the rimmed baking sheet in an even layer to cool for 3 minutes. Transfer bell pepper to pot with onion.

• Add 3 more tablespoons olive oil to skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add summer squash and cook, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes. Scrape onto rimmed baking sheet in an even layer to cool for 3 minutes. Transfer to pot with onion and bell pepper.

• Add remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil to skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant and cook, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes; add more olive oil as needed if skillet dries out while cooking eggplant. Scrape eggplant into pot with other vegetables and stir to combine.

• Set pot of vegetables over medium-high heat and stir in tomato puree and herb bundle; heat until ratatouille is gently bubbling, then lower heat to medium and cook, stirring, until tomato puree coats vegetables in a thick sauce, about 15 minutes. Discard herb bundle. Season with salt, stir in chopped parsley (if using), and drizzle with a small amount of fresh extra-virgin olive oil. Serve right away, or chill and serve either reheated, slightly chilled, or at room temperature.

This dish is as beautiful as it is delicious.

What's Pressoir Drinking? Echezeaux Study at Anton's

August 17, 2021
by Raj Vaidya

Who says August in NYC is too hot to drink red wine (and a few Grand Cru whites)?

Last week we decided that a 97 degree evening in the summer was the perfect environment to do a study of the Grand Cru vineyard Echezeaux!  A slightly overheated, yet perfectly enthusiastic group of merrymakers assembled with Daniel and me at Anton’s in Greenwich Village, one of my favorite neighbourhood restaurants.

We started out with a delicious magnum of Champagne Delamotte, just to cool off a bit, and followed that with a flight of Grand Cru white Burgundies.  This proved refreshing for sure, but the group was eager to move onto red before too long…

To begin, a vertical of Domaine Jean Grivot’s Echezeaux, featuring the lauded 2009, 2010 and 2012 vintages.  The 2010 was totally the star this evening, showing more energy and balance than the somewhat overly rich ’09 and the slightly shy and austere ’12.  Bursting with notes of cola and spice from a noticeable yet pleasant bit of oak.   

The next flight was an exciting and surprising one, featuring Pierre Duroché’s rare negociant bottling of this Grand Cru from 2017, which showed tremendous vibrancy and elegance which is the hallmark of that vintage, alongside the somewhat burlier examples from 2012 via the Domaines d’Eugenie and Romanée-Conti.  The Eugenie over delivered, from the parcel historically known from the former ownership, the Réné Engel estate, with a dense core of fruit and great length on the palate.  The Romanée-Conti performed beautifully as well, the only wine in this flight to use whole cluster fermentation which certainly made it stand out even more.

The fireworks were ignited with the last flight, from one of my longstanding favorites in Burgundy, the Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg.  These bottles showed phenomenally well, with the 2014 a bit reticent and quiet at first but blossoming well, the 2010 showing tremendous breadth and minerality and the surprising wine of the night, for me at least, the 2008.  An often underrated and underappreciated vintage, this 08 showed none of the vegetal or overly acidic notes of the vintage, but rather expressed perfect harmony and precision and remained on my palate for hours afterwards, and in the front of my mind well into the next morning!

The wines:

Domaine Louis Michel Vaudésir Chablis Grand Cru   2017

Etienne Sauzet Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru   2017

Domaine de Montille Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru  2017

Domaine Jean Grivot Echezeaux Grand Cru   2010

Domaine Jean Grivot Echezeaux Grand Cru   2012

Domaine Jean Grivot Echezeaux Grand Cru   2009

Domaine Duroche Echezeaux Grand Cru       2017

Domaine d’Eugenie Echezeaux Grand Cru     2012

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux    2012

Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg Echezeaux Grand Cru 2014

Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg Echezeaux Grand Cru 2010

Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg Echezeaux Grand Cru 2008

What's Pressoir Drinking?

WHAT'S PRESSOIR DRINKING?

by Raj Vaidya
August 11, 2021

A celebration this past weekend gave me an awesome opportunity to taste a bottle from the storied producer Soldera, an icon of Brunello di Montalcino. It’s not often I get to taste these any more, partially because I’m no longer opening bottles all week long in a restaurant but mostly because his wines have become increasingly rare after a tragic act of vandalism destroyed a large part of his production in 2012, and he subsequently has released only tiny quantities of bottles. But this example from the late 90’s proved to be an absolute treat.

The 1998 vintage was hardly heralded in Tuscany, overshadowed by the high-point-scoring 1997’s and a tad hard and austere when released young. But this wine proved that the vintage had all the material and vivacity to balance out the high acid and tannin levels that lay underneath.

Notes of dried cherries and lavender, hints of hay and tobacco, yet still with robust freshness and floral fruit. The richness of the wine not withstanding, this felt like a fine and elegant Barolo on the palate. The length was immense too!

Le Soleil in Savigny-les-Beaune

by Daniel Johnnes
August 11, 2021

A dear friend Lola Taboury Bize has finally opened her restaurant Le Soleil in Savigny-lès-Beaune. As luck would have it, the intended opening was March 2020, just a few days after the world collapsed under the weight of Covid-19.

I was saddened that it could not open as anticipated for two reasons. One, I know how hard she had worked on this labor of love and it now had to be delayed, and secondly because she told me she could not attend the 20th anniversary of La Paulée de New York as this was the week she was going to open.

She had been to every Paulée for at least five years and in addition to bringing her smile and Burgundian spirit, she acted as our resident videographer, capturing so many great moments which are now archived for us. So she was terribly missed at our anniversary Paulée.

When Raj and I were in Burgundy a few weeks ago, our first stop for Sunday lunch was at Lola’s lovely patio alongside a tree lined canal on the edge of Savigny. I might have been predisposed to like it because of my fondness for Lola. Anyway it proved to be one of my favorite meals of the ten day trip, second only to our meal at Troisgros.

Now mentioning Le Soleil and Troisgros in the same sentence just isn’t fair. But I love both for similar reasons. Above all, the quality of the ingredients and the superb execution. On equal footing for me is the greeting, warmth of service and overall vibe.

What stood out for me at Le Soleil was the variety and treatment of vegetables. In fact, we ordered only veggies except for one meat dish, a chicken pastilla. But everything else tasted as if it had been pulled from the garden moments before hitting the chopping block, sautée pan or salad bowl.

While the wine list leans toward what some would call “natural” I disagree. I dislike that word and Lola has assembled a list of fantastic, lesser known wines and well known Burgundy estates with the underling principal of quality. We drank a Chambolle-Musigny les Fuées 2010 from Jacques Frederic Mugnier.

I can not think of a better way to spend a Sunday afternoon or any day for that matter.

We would be happy to reserve a table for you during your next visit to Burgundy. Give Justine a call or call Lola directly at Le Soleil: +33-380-20-21-02. Tell her you are a friend of La Paulée.

What's Pressoir Drinking

Recap of Pressoir.wine Tasting
The styles of Champagne

July 29,2021
by Justine Puaud & Edouard Bourgeois

We were very pleased with the lineup of wines that really showed the beautiful diversity one can find in these delicious bubbles.

BLANC DE BLANCS

Jacques Lassaigne Colline Inspirée Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs
Leclerc-Briant Blanc de Blancs
Flavien Nowack Blanc de Blancs La Tuilerie
Doyard Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2012
Laherte Frères Les Grandes Crayères Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs 2016

BLANC DE NOIRS

Chartogne-Taillet Cuvee Orizeaux Extra Brut
Champagne Pierre Paillard Les Maillerettes Bouzy Grand Cru
Flavien Nowack Blanc de Meuniers La Fontinette 2016
Vouette et Sorbée Brut Nature Fidele (R17) NV
Francis Boulard Brut Nature Petraea

ROSÉ

Philipponnat Rosé Reserve
Deutz Brut Rosé Champagne Amour de Deutz 2009
Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé Brut Millesime 2002
Dehours et Fils Oeil de Perdrix Extra-Brut NV
René Geoffroy Rose de Saignée Brut

FOCUS ON 2002 VINTAGE

Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Vintage Brut 2002
Lallier Grand Cru Brut 2002
Piper-Heidsieck Rare Brut 2002
Billecart Salmon Cuvée Nicolas Francois Billecart Brut 2002
Pascal Doquet 1er Cru Le Mont Aimé Brut 2002

A few notes from Edouard about Champagne Jacques Lassaigne La Colline Inspirée Montgueux Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs:

I was particularly impressed with this great wine. And more than ever I want to insist on the word "wine". I tasted this Champagne right after popping the cork but also much later, at a stage where the carbonation was completely gone and the temperature rose and was far from optimal. The bottle at that point had been opened for a few hours and I was about to sadly pour the rest of it down the drain but my curiosity inspired me to taste it again. I was shocked by how lively and fresh this Blanc de Blancs remained. The balance was still intact and that Champagne turned into an excellent still white wine, with serious complexity.

Lassaigne is a very respected producer located in a unique part of Champagne, Montgueux, which happens to be just miles from my hometown of Troyes. Emmanuel Lassaigne, the current generation at the domaine, is known for making wines of great tension and vivacity.

A Champagne winemaker I admire once told me that bubbles and dosage (the sugar sometimes added just before bottling) should never be "in the way of the wine" and by no means play the role of "make-up". Well, I guess my experience with that bottle was a great example of that thought since neither added sugar nor carbonation was present.

A few notes from Justine about Laherte Frères Les Grandes Crayères Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs 2016:

I fell in love with this champagne with intense saline flavors, and chalky power on the finish. This plot cuvée is the perfect reflection of a viticulture close to nature and a vinification in wood respecting the character of the fruit.

“Les Grandes Crayeres” comes from two very chalky plots of massale selection vines in the Coteaux Sud d'Epernay with a north exposition. Chalk close to the surface and very little topsoil. Organically farmed. Fermentation takes place in 3-6 year old barrels with light lees stirring and no malolactic fermentation. Bottling occurs in April-May, after 30 months on lees in bottles.

Founded in 1889 by Jean-Baptiste Laherte, the estate was originally made up of vines primarily in the village of Chavot. Fourth generation vigneron Michel Laherte expanded the family estate which then covered about five hectares. With his wife Cécile, the two young vignerons modernized the press and tanks, but soon realized that too much modernity such as the use of herbicides and pesticides would prevent full terroir expression in the wines. They began working the soils, gently vinifying the juices, and remaining humble and patient as the wines developed. This philosophy is the foundation of the estate and has endured through the generations. Today, under the direction of Aurélien Laherte who took over in 2005, the estate has become one of the most progressive and dynamic rising stars in the appellation.

News from the Vineyard

July 28, 2021

By Raj Vaidya

Mildew in Hermitage

So much has been noted already about the extremely wet and difficult conditions around France thus far this season, that it comes as no surprise to learn that the spring frost and the rainy weather have also affected the Northern Rhône valley quite strongly. There was much less frost than in Burgundy here, and less mildew pressure and storm damage than in Champagne, but it remains a season that has challenged the producers greatly.

The continuous month of rain in June and early July made it difficult to treat for mildew, as the vignerons need a dry spell for the copper sulphate to take effect. A short, dry and hot period last week brought some hope, as it offered a window to treat effectively and some sunshine to help ripen the grapes and the moods of the vignerons.

This past weekend, however, rain returned and some mildew is now visible on the grapes themselves. Many producers are still optimistic even though it has been a tough season, but those whom I’ve spoken with tell me that without a superbly hot and dry August the harvest will be drought with problems, and a small yield most likely.

Here are some photos from the top of Hermitage from the far western edge of the appellation, in the Lieux Dit La Chapelle and Les Grandes Vignes.

Slight effect on leaves, a little on the grapes also over the past week.

Though this bunch is slightly affected by rot, what’s most interesting here is the two clipped green branches on either side of the cluster; examples of early shoots which were likely frost affected and therefore removed. This vine will probably produce no wine.

Mildew has arrived on some grapes on the high slopes in Hermitage.

But not all the vines have been affected by frost or mildew. Most of the Hermitage hill looks like this, plentiful clusters and fairly healthy grapes.

What's Pressoir Cooking? Oven Roasted Cod with Cherry Tomatoes

by Max Goldberg Liu
Wednesday July 21, 2021

For me, summer cooking is all about simplicity and freshness. This one dish recipe couldn’t be any easier to prepare, and transformed ultra fresh cod and beautiful cherry tomatoes from the Grand Army Plaza farmer’s market into a super satisfying weekend lunch. Pre-roasting the tomatoes with oil, vinegar, and honey creates a delicious light sauce. Served over potato purée with some sautéed spinach, it was a great pairing with a bottle of 2018 Chablis from one of my favorite producers not named Dauvissat or Raveneau - Moreau-Naudet.

Recipe from Lidey Heuck, NYT

• 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved

• ½ cup thinly sliced shallots (about 1 large)

• 2 teaspoons minced garlic (about 2 large cloves)

• 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for brushing

• 1 tablespoon sherry or red wine vinegar

• 1 teaspoon honey

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

• ½ teaspoon black pepper, plus more to taste

• 4 (6-ounce) skin-on mild white fish fillets, such as cod or halibut

• 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest (from about 1/2 lemon)

• Chopped fresh basil, for serving

• Chopped fresh mint, for serving

1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the tomatoes, shallots and garlic in a 9-by-13-inch nonreactive baking dish. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, honey, salt and pepper. Pour over the tomatoes and toss to combine. Roast until the tomatoes have collapsed and the shallots are translucent, about 15 minutes.

2. While the tomatoes roast, pat the fish dry with paper towels, brush all over with olive oil, and season generously with salt and pepper.

3. Toss the tomatoes, move them to the sides of the dish and place the fish fillets, evenly spaced, in the center. Roast until the fish is cooked through and flakes easily with a fork, 10 to 12 minutes.

4. Sprinkle the entire dish with the lemon zest, basil and mint. Serve the fish with the tomatoes, spooning any remaining juices on top.

What's Pressoir Drinking? Memorable White Burgundy

by Jaime Dutton
July 21, 2021

Sometimes there is a great bottle that makes you stop on the first sip. Those bottles that remind you how amazing and unique the terroirs of Burgundy are. Pure pleasure!

I shared one these moments recently with friends and family when we shared a number of great wines together, full line up below, but the bottle that made everyone stop was the Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2013 from Domaine Paul Pillot.

Bursting and vibrant, amazing length and a clean, stone fruit acidity that was a perfect pairing for the fresh line caught tuna tartar that was served with it. Our tuna tartar preparation includes fresh herbs of thyme, chives, mint and parsley mixed with good olive oil and fresh shallots, sprinkled with Maldon salt. The fresh herbs brought out those same flavors in the wine beautifully.